4drgl

I'm very anxious to finally get to paint my hard work... The paint work on the body after the engine bay will really tie the car together nicely. Then I'll have to try not to get too excited and start bolting it back together before it's wet sanded and polished out to a glass finish!

JHowell37

If you remove the anti-chip stuff along the bottom of the doors, fenders, etc, I would advise you to replace it. There's a reason Porsche and a lot of other companies use(d) it. Porsche didn't stop using it until the S4 which has the plastic trim all around that serves the same function and looks better.

If you're using a national brand, then I'll guess PPG, or one of the brands they own.

When you get to the color sanding phase, I highly recommend 3M Trizact film.

4drgl

3M Trizact film. Never heard of it?? What is it's purpose?? Googling it now...

As for the chip guarding, I will be replacing it with 3M clear bra materials in the oem places. The car will not see any offroad or inclement weather, from here on out... The front end will also be clear bra'd before putting it on the road.

Till it's next owner chooses what to do with it, in 10-15 years! When/if I decide to sell it.

Podguy

I t sure looks like you are doing it right. I agree on the inside the door jambs and stuff. They should pop when you open them. It is one thing to have some gloss but the finish should be like a mirror with some depth. I have found the Groit's Garage Polish 4 to give the best final finish. In the case of the 928 the under places were not up to Porsche standards.

I find these people to be better priced for paper than TCP Global

http://www.abrasivesales.com/default.asp

But you have to watch because sometimes they can be more then TCP Global. I have found the quality to be high.

Larry Velk

Regarding flex agent - I can confirm that PPG DCC single stage to color (black, red and white 928's for the most part) will be excellent with this application. I have 3 Karman built German XR's that have acres of urethane clad that has held up great for 12 or so PARKED OUTSIDE Wisconsin winters. There is fade and chalk, which rubs out (leave enough on!). The DCC is near obsolete and locally you can only get it at the "main" outlets. It is expensive. I used the black on the 928 and it was a perfect match ('86, single stage). The texture - 'orange peel' - matches the factory paint without recourse to Dutch Masters paint ability.
You must, must remove the quarter glass as there will be rust under there.

JHowell37

It's expensive **** that you use after you do the sanding part of color sanding. As time goes on, clear coats are made increasingly harder to resist chips and scratches. This also makes them more difficult to buff. The common method for dealing with this was to use finer and finer sand paper. Basically, you sanded out one set of scratches and replaced them with finer scratches. It's very time consuming. Trizact can remove 1200 grit scratches without leaving it's own fine scratches. Once you're done with it, you're usually left with a slightly cloudy finish that buffs easily.

I think 3m might have a demo video on their site.

4drgl

I did some reading on it yesterday. Never heard of the product before. It looks like pretty good stuff. I may have to check it out.

So what I'm understanding from you, is that I "should" color sand to knock out any final imperfections in the first base coat, and then lay down two maybe 3 more color coats, and then, clear the whole thing 4x.

Then depending upon imperfections after 24 hours dry time, (bugs/runs/dust/orange peel) probly start wet sanding w 1500, then go to the trizact film? Then buff, then polish? I'll have to check out the 3m site vid.

The info is very helpful. Thx.

As for washing/cleaning the weatherstrips (hatch/doors), what should I use to renew their oem look. They're filthy, but in good shape overall. Wash with soap and water of course, but how to renew their black appearance prior to install?

The windshield will be professionally installed, I'm not attempting that again by myself... Probly a week/two after paint, to give cure time, and for me to wet sand buff/polish prior to install.

The goop that I originally removed from the hatch to remove the window? What is that called? My local napa dealer and pep boys sells a roll of window adhesive, and seems to be of a similar texture to what I removed originally from the hatch. The trim bolts down around and centers the window anyway, so just need to get the proper sealant.

Thx for the help you guys are great. Hope to meet some of you at ocic in july.

Podguy

Here is the page on the windshield. The kit can be bought on line from TC Global or most other autobody or auto glass shop. The shims can be used to position the window before it is pressed into place. The shims are used for flooring and can be found at Home Depot.

http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...windshield.htm

Using what is on the web page I have removed a number of windshields without breaking them. I did find Safety Lite to have very reasonable installation and glass prices. They are mobile.

The only problem I found with the rear windows are the connections for the heater. I have had them fall off. They can be soldered back on.

I tried the Tazit and found it was very easy to go though the paint. If you go through the clear then you have to re-clear the entire panel.

Mrmerlin

.Josh I would recommend to use the 3M chip guard on the rockers it works well I did my 79 this way it would be sprayed over your primer coat then base and cleared,
the paint sticks well to it.
You can buy it different textures IIRC I used a medium texture and it looked like factory after it was painted,
As far as the sanding of the base coat of paint i wouldnt,
you really wont have time to sand and clean the whole painted surface as the clear should be applied shortly after the base has set up,
any sanding should be done to the top coat after all paint process has been done

4drgl

I was wonderin when you were gonna chime in w some good ideas!

I have considered the spray on texture. Does it come in a spray can, or what exactly am I looking for? I like the look of the texture, but mine was destroyed and peeling.... so I couldn't save it.

Sanding of the base coat, I have recieved mixed messages on this subject, some say sand the base coat, and the majority say not to especially with a pearl/metallic. So I will probly not be color sanding, I will deal with the imperfections at the end with the wet sand of the clear.

The windshield/hatch glass install should be much easier as long as I shim it. 5/16" thickness sealant rope/tape is what I'm looking for according to that site that podguy referred me to.

As for the oem shims for the base of the windshield one of mine was missing originally so I will need to track down new ones through one of our vendors.

Stan, do you have any recommendations on what to clean the rubber seals with that doesn't have silicone in it?

Thx

Mrmerlin

to clean the rubber seal use alcohol on a terry cloth rag that will remove most of the crud ,
and when your finished installing them,
spray them down with silicone spray or rub DC111 into them ,
the DC111 will soak into the rubbers and make them soft again,
NOTE with the DC111, it will run when water hits it,
this can be removed from the painted surfaces with car spray wax detailer.

The 3M chip guard comes in a 18 OZ spray can. Part # 051131-05911, or try 05911
it takes about 3 coats to build the texture just follow the directions,

Use blue tape to make your line where it should end and remove the tape ASAP so it wont peel the texture off the panel, peel the tape at a 45 degree angle to the line peel slowly
I would buy 2 cans of it just to make sure you dont run out,
dont touch the coating till its dry or you will flatten the texture

Podguy

Gee i have to disagree - silicon is the last thing to use on anything. Groits Garage makes a non silicon vinyl cleaner and prep - they also make a rubber prep that is pretty good. One off the wall thing I have found that works is the Leatherique cleaner. it works great on vinyl and rubber products.

As far as color sanding the base I think there is some misunderstandings. My point of color sanding is to eliminate imperfections in the body work. It is impossible to get things perfect with just primer. Primer does not reflect the way the color will. It is a bit of a cheat to try to fix things in the clear. The minor ripples will still be there.

Where the misunderstanding arrises is the application. The color coat is supposed to be covered with clear within 24 hours of application. But the can says if this is not possible it can be sanded. So sanding is acceptable.

Then once the color on the car and time has been given to the final prep the idea is to spray a final color coat that is then immediately clear. This prevents any streaks from comming out in a metallic and for the Pearl to get the right coverage.

It would be a disaster to clear over a color coat that has been color sanded without an additional layer of color laid down.

Another advantage of this method is to get some depth in the base coat. Base coats are very thin and there is a danger of not getting full coverage. with two base coats that possibility is eliminated.

Mrmerlin

to be clear, as far as using any silicone products they shouldnt be used till after the car fully painted and buffed

Podguy

I rarely say never - but after seeing the damaging effects of silicon on the pods and dashes that I recondition I have to say NEVER get silicon any where near a car. German plastic combined with silicon is a reciepe for acceletated silicon rot.

Mrmerlin

if you have not ever used DC111 then i recommend it,
it works especially well on the lower edge of the door window rubber seals , these dry out after many years of sun.
Simply smear it on being careful not to get it onto the window and let the sun bake it into the rubber, after a few months the rubbers will become soft again and it should prevent them from cracking and drying out,
the DC111 also works well on the hatch seal,
smear it on,
the hatch seal will soften again.

as a final suggestion for the DC111 it is great for lubricating any O rings used in the car from the oil pump to the transmission