question for you guys. what fans are you using when doing a SC motor? i know you have more room with the twins screw then with the front mounted units, but I'm curious to see what people are using that is thin, but pulls enough air.
looks like the Sharkblade might be on perma hold from DR & crew so I'm looking for alternatives. BE-cool makes a lot of nice double fan/alum shroud units, i was thinking of trying one of them.

 

It's tough to get enough pullers in there that will keep the engine cool enough. Definitely no room for a shroud. I have one 12" puller and a 16" pusher and that combo isn't enough in stop and go traffic. Probably going to step up to a pair of high cfm 12" pullers and hopefully that will help.

 

i hate the plastic mounting tabs the go thru the core, so a should mount would be nice. but I'm sure i can fab up some other mounting system. i wonder how much CFM is enough for 928's. i have a 928ms alum radiator on the shelf and am trying to figure out a good set up for the fans. Albuquerque heat is killer down here.

 

I made some metals brackets out of flat steel and attached them to the shroud mounting holes and bolted my puller fan that way. Tim Murphy has a bracket system for his pullers mounted like this as well.

 

I would recommend you contact Murph and buy his fan setup.

 

I'm currently installing my MURF Stage III and I'm putting in a large pusher in front and 4 small pullers on the back.

 

I have four 8" pullers on mine. Wired thru a adjustable temp switch and a relay. Fans connected to the jump post.

 

4 little guys huh. I plan on keepingy ax fan up front, or would thy not be needed if I pull enough air In the front? Choices choices

 

1 DER-16516 pusher from Summit Racing, 4 Derale 16508 puller fans.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...ER-16516&dds=1
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-16508/

I also have two of these for my heat exchangers and they also can be used in place of the 16508 fans

http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=ZFB8&dds=1

If I turn all 7 fans on at once it sounds like a tornado under the hood.

I read about guys who can't keep there supercharger cars cool in stop and go traffic and I don't get it.
I have driven mine during the hottest summer days in S. Florida and have never had a problem with running hot. Don't know why and I count my blessing that overheating has never been an issue for me.

 

when I had my raptor on , it ran hotter and hotter and after a yr the water pump was noted to be grinding into the block. It never leaked, but was failing and that was why mine seemed to be running hotter in retrospect...

 

Some of the things that can contribute to warm running include:

Debris blocking the radiator. A lot of stuff can build up between the A/C condenser and radiator not really be that noticable if you're not looking for it.

Not having the aluminum air dam that's included with the supercharger kits installed on top of the radiator. It doesn't do much good if you drill a bunch of big holes in it either, like I saw was done on one car that did have it installed.

The sides of the radiator having openings that allow air to flow around it, instead of through it.

All of the fans that are supplied with the supercharger kits not turning in the correct direction, due to the wiring polarity being reversed on one or more of them.

Some people like it, and some don't, but there has been some testing done that shows the motorized air flap system that came on some model year cars increases underhood temperatures, even when it's working correctly, or the flaps have been permanently locked fully open.

Part of the spoiler/air directing system at the front of the car blocking the air inlet at speed. It may look fine when the car's stopped, but move at speed if damaged or not installed correctly.

The water pump impeller slipping.

Excess clearance between the water pump impeller and block, either from variance in manufacturing tolerances, or impeller to block contact having occured at some time.

A bad thermostat.

A bad seal behind the thermostat.

The radiator cap or some other cooling system component not holding the correct pressure.

An incorrect water to coolant ratio.

Not having the belly pan installed.

The inside of the radiator being partially clogged.

The effect of things like those on the engine temperature are cumulative. The more things that aren't working as well as they could be, the sooner the limits of the cooling system as it is will be reached, resulting in warmer engine temperatures.

Even if everything's not working as well as it should be, increasing the efficiency of even one part of the cooling system might be enough to raise it's capacity to the point where cooler engine temperatures can be obtained.

 

I left the AC fan up front operating in stock configuration. I went with 4 small fans because of space issues between S/C belt and radiator. Two small fans on each side of blower belt. I can dial in the "turn on/off" temp with adjustable thermostat control, so fans are not running under normal highway operation They come on at 195 and go back off at about 190

 

anyone have pictures of the 4 little fans mounted?

 

This is all nice but how is this relevant to the rad fan? They only work when the car is at a stop or going fairly slow.

I have a 16" pusher on the front but jus tlike Ted, it's not quiet good enough on a very hot day traffic jam, and I don't have AC. So wha tI have is not good enough but I've learned to use the cabin heater as an auxilary radiator.