Mrmerlin

Hilton are you referring to the 45 degree angle brackets that anchor the cross member to the side of the fenderwell and the A arm bolt?
I have never taken the top bolt off of this bracket only the lower bolts they push in front to back use a small pry bar to adjust the holes in the bracket then push the long bolt in the fix the nut to the other side of the bolt.
If your removing the crossmember this way ,
I must say its different and probably a bit more difficult to remove the A arm bolt,
thought the lower bracket bolts are also a pain..
But with a airgun they spin off rather easily

Andy Kay

Today I picked up the Volvo Motor Mounts from Roger at 928's R Us and a slightly used set of Delrin Rack Bushings from Kenny. When I mentioned the Oil Pan Gasget, Roger suggested some hardware that goes with the OPG. Studs maybe? I don't know. My suggestion: call him at 817.430.2688. Best pricing and a very helpful assistant named Laura!

polecat702

Ijust recieved my motor mounts from Roger today as well. I'll be doing this soon also. All this is getting very confusing! I'll be using Dwayne's write up, and pictorial.
If I run into any problems, I'll figure it out.

baystate928

Nobody mentioned rear fuel lines. If those lines have taken a set and are brittle, the engine movement courtesy of those new motor mounts could spell trouble.

Hilton

Ah yes, you're right, I'd forgotten about that bolt as only one of my cars I did that way (the one from NZ that had no rust underneath) - although I had to get a little creative with my airgun's impact extensions to get at them..

The other 928's I've had came from the UK where they were driven with salt on the roads - dropping the cross member ears and all was the only practical approach - the horizontal bolts' shanks were too pitted and rusty to fit through the holes even with the largest hammer I could fit up there. The OP is near Barrie IIRC - so depending on PO's driving habits, he may or may not have rust at the ends of the crossmember (when I lived near Toronto, most people I knew drove beaters as soon as first snow came, but not all).

Oddly I've never found it that hard to undo the A-arm nuts - I'm not entirely sure why people say its a tough job?

17prospective buyer

From the looks of it, my car has been well taken care of. Almost no rust at all, only rust is on the 4 corner jacking points from when paint flaked off. Never winter driven to my knowledge. It has a few of those frame dents from where people shouldn't jack it up, or should put a piece of flat wood between the jack and frame rails when they do. The spots that the thick rubber/tar like rustproofing has come off i've thoroughly gone over and applied some generic underseal to them. I'm amazed at how thick that coating is under there, must be part of the reason Porsche once had (still?) a 7 year warranty on rusting through of any part.

Landseer

Galvanized.

Hilton

Yep, the only spots I've found much rust on my ex-UK cars are the outer ends of the crossmember, the fuel tank "strap" (metal carrier), the lower spring perches on the shocks, and the main pin in the rear suspension.

The bodywork is very rust proof thanks to the layer of zinc Also a good reason to never strip the steel frame and panels back to bare metal IMHO.

Schocki

Just in case nobody mentioned it: WYAIT clean all the contacts of the grounding wired to the motor and Body...