17prospective buyer

Hi guys, i'm currently gathering all the procedures, list of parts needed, and specs to do the motor mounts on my 87' 928 S4 5 speed. I plan to use the very simple aluminum mounts from 928MS. I would think that the original motor mounts were designed in a way that the motor would seem to run smoothly from a driveablity perspective without balance shafts in motor. I've never opened a 928 engine up, i don't recall that it has balance shafts.

I was wondering about all the other low-cost WYIT things you guys did when you did the motor mounts. I know i will have more clearance between the engine bay and motor because it will need to be raised at least 3-4" by an engine lift to remove the old ones and torque/align the new motor mounts in place.

What other things should i do while i'm in there? I haven't investigated the timing belt/water pump assembly yet but have records that the TB/WP job was done 10 000KM ago. I'm planning to do this during the week after Christmas day, so i want to gather up all the info/procedures/specs i need and list of parts i need to buy before i do it so that i can just get er' done.

Cosmo Kramer

Don't do the solid mounts you will regret it on a street car. Roger at 928's r us sells the Volvo ones that are rubber and will isolate the engine from the chassis.

Other things to do WYIT would be steering rack bushings and oil pan gasket.

Tom928

If your doing the mounts it is easier to remove the crossmember and do the oil pan gasket.
Also since you'll have to pull the steering rack - replace the rack bushings.

fraggle

Don't go solid mounts. Get the volvo mounts from roger. Trust me, I switched back and welcomed the quiet. The vibration and noise is a SIGNIFICANT change.

I put in a new slave, blue hose and master clutch cylinders when I had the cross member off.

I do have the solid aluminum steering rack mounts, and I like those. I'd plan on installing at least those or the delrin ones.

Jon B.

+1. Solid mounts are not fun in a street car.

dr bob

Solid mounts are great for race cars but are less than ideal for most street-driven cars. The engine and trans are connected by a somewhat-rigid torque tube. Also by a less rigid unibody. You'll want the regular mounts to allow for the differences in flex so you don't twist things unnecessarily. Plus, the noise/ vibration/ harshness differences are significant.

The most important Other Thing to Sonia invest in a couple cans of engine cleaner, and use it liberally on the bottom of the engine, the steering rack and crossmember area where you will be working. This is a slimy project when things are relatively clean, and goes downhill quickly if you are working on dirty stuff.

WYAIT: oil pan gasket, rack bushings, steering hoses. Get a project care package from your favorite parts supplier that includes banjo washers, oil filter, Delrin rack bushings, stud kit for the bottom girdle to oil sump. Make sure you have a set of gear wrenches, particularly 10mm flex head, for the oil sump bolts.

Tom in Austin

Another realistic WYAIT would be the upper arm bushings since the arms are dramatically easier to get to with the crossmember out.

And several people, myself included, ended up doing trans mounts after engine mounts to get the entire drivetrain refreshed.

GlenL

I've got a straight one but a ratcheting 10mm is (almost) essential for the pan gasket. You should get that. I've done it with a regular wrench and it's miserable.

Otherwise I'm of the persuasion to replace things that are actually bad. 928 parts are awfully expensive. Rack bushing may be bad if they were oil soaked or, worse, ATF soaked. Those power steering lines can be done with the engine in if they go bad.

I'd suggest looking at the tie rod ends (big and small) as you'll need to remove those to get the crossmember off. Also the boots for those. It there is ATF in the boots then replace the steering rack. The lower balljoints will be easily checked/replaced, too.

soontobered84

+1 on not using solid motor mounts on a street car
+1 on doing the oil pan gasket
+1 on doing the steering rack bushing while you have it down and out the way.
I used solid aluminum rack bushings and they are great.

SeanR

This is smart stuff right here, do not use the solid mounts on a street car, you'd be better off just leaving the crap mounts that are in there now.

fraggle

I didn't have to disconnect the tie rods on the steering rack to do mine, though that would have made things a lot easier.

Mine ends a frozen in place anyway.

Cosmo Kramer

Mine either, I unbolted the clip holding the PS lines and unbolted the rack and pulled it down, lots of clearance. Kept the tie rods and the u joint from the steering shaft connected.

SMTCapeCod

Lest it gets lost in the shuffle...great call on the clutch bits, too...

Mike Frye

+1 for getting the 10mm gear wrench if you're doing the pan gasket. Makes those little buggers easier to deal with. Also keep track of the pan bolts, they're not all the same length.

And don't forget to remove the airbox completely (top and bottom pieces) or when you raise the engine it will interfere with (if you're lucky) or crush (if you're me) against the firewall.

Plan to spend lots of time cleaning before the job and you'll eat less grit when you actually have to lift and pull and wedge stuff around in there. It's awkward work no matter how you do it and getting a face (and hair and ears) full of crud makes it ten times worse.

jeff spahn

Good torque wrench for re torquing the 102ft/lb upper a arm bolts that you'll loosen to make the cross member go back in 1000x easier.