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1987 Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter (Screw Plug) Repair Procedure w/pics

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Old 11-24-2011, 10:41 AM
  #16  
Dwayne
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Originally Posted by Aryan
Hi Dwayne, nice write-up as always. I wonder how the threads got damaged, it seems to be a fine pitch. Another question: you seem to have left out the large air pump bolt on the tensioner, is the tensioner ok like that?...
Hello Aryan,
I'm wondering the same thing - how did the threads get damaged in the first place. Thread fatigue? Over-torquing? Perhaps someone here has some insight?

If you are referring to the long pivot bolt for the air pump on the timing belt tensioner bracket, yes I did remove the air pump and the AC Compressor when I removed the engine. As far as I know, it's OK to remove the pivot bolt when the air pump is removed. Are you aware of an issue?

Originally Posted by Landseer
Thanks for posting this solution.
Am probably going to need one of those taps myself due to 85 developing leak in that area.

So,you are sure its possible to do this work with the engine still installed?
Hello Chris,
Yes, it is possible to re-tap the threads with the engine still in the car with the oil pan and alternator still installed. This is assuming you can get the Screw Plug out of the engine block. Mine (Oregon) was jammed and had to be cut out. My wife's (Virginia) came out, with resistance, so I could re-tap those threads with everything still in place.

If the Screw Plug is jammed and can't be removed, it can be cut using the method I describe above while the engine is in the car (that's what I did). As you can see, I ended up nicking the mating surface on the block with the hacksaw blade. I had to suspend the engine from above, remove the front cross member, oil pan, alternator, oil cooler hoses, and oil filter in order to get to work on the Screw Plug. If I had to do it again with the engine in the car, I think I could remove a jammed Screw Plug using the same method but do a better job of protecting the mating surface. It's just that there's so many other nice things that can be done while the engine is out of the car - it's easy to get carried away!

Originally Posted by Herman K
Is this just a tricky as removing the water bridge allen bolts?

Should preheating the area be a part of any removal procedure?

In my experience with these engines is that when ever some thing feels stuck preheating has always worked for me to get thing to loosen up.

My compliments Dwayne
Hello Herman,
I didn't think about heating the Screw Plug to see if that would have helped take the jammed plug out. It sure would have been nice if it would have worked! I'm pretty sure the Screw Plug is jammed on California (1984) so I may try the heating trick before tackling that one. Since California is retired, it's lower on the priority list right now. THANKS for the suggestion!
Old 11-24-2011, 12:20 PM
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IcemanG17
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WOW....great work!!!
Old 11-24-2011, 01:49 PM
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Eplebnista
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Nice write up.

An old trick for controlling chips made by a tap is apply generous amounts of heavy grease in the large grooves between the cutting flutes. Done it with spark plug taps many times.
Old 11-24-2011, 02:00 PM
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I don't even what to know what those large taps cost.....
Old 11-25-2011, 12:14 AM
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Dwayne
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Originally Posted by Sterling
I don't even what to know what those large taps cost.....
I try not to think about it.....



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