Good Morning, Gents

I did a search but didn't find too much on this...

The wife was going to surprise me last night by pulling the GTS out of the garage and washing her for me.

When she went to start back up, no start... and she called me at work to let me know.

I figured drained battery as the battery is 4 yrs and on it's last legs.

Got home and tried to start.... dash lights OK, but on engaging the starter, got nothing, no click, no grunt, no turn, no nothing. Figured not enough battery, so ran jumper cables to contact points. Still nothing at all, lights work, but just as if the starter was disconnected.

I will check relays (#5, I believe, which is a '53' if I'm right and this was changed out 6 mos ago), will jack her up and check connections to the starter, and I believe the solenoid was changed out abt 5 yrs ago.

Just wanted to check w/ you guru's to see if there is some sensor or whatever that could be blocking this starter as I have never had this problem before in my 2 928's

No jokes about letting the wife in the car... she's a keeper

Thanks & Happy T-Day

 

The car will have flooded the car when trying to restart when 1/4 warm. It's quite common. No need to chase a suspected problem...

Your battery is now discharged, but DO NOT connect a charger to the car when the battery is heavilly discharged.

Get the battery out and charge it out of the car.

 

Just had this happen to me on the GTS during 3rd Coast a few weeks ago.

New Battery. (12.8 volts at the jumper post)
New ign Switch
New starter relay.
14 Pin Connector was clean.
Leads to starter were tight.

I had the same exact symptoms in that the starter relay would click, but he starter did absolutely nothing.

Replaced starter, runs like a champ!!

 

Thanks the input...

John, you're saying that the starter won't even turn over when flooded? I'll get the battery out and re-charge or replace

Chuck - how's the air brake working on the OB? (Marble Falls '06) . If the above doesn't work, I'll look at a new starter. The present one is original... it's probably due. I haven't spent any money on her in 7 days, she's due.

Thanks the input, guys

 

No, I'm saying that the battery now required recharging due to extended cranking. .... the only way "flooding" could prevent the engine turning over is if it is hydrolocked. That is not going to happen with normal cranking.

Cat equipped cars are notorious for flooding after a short start, left about 1/2 to 1 hour, then won't start. It can take a long time for a flooded car to dry out. Do a search on "flooded car start" or similar and you will see some useful hints like removing the fuel pump fuse until the engine fires, starting with foot to the floor....

 

Trying tapping on the starter with hammer, see if that will get it going.

 

Using a 12 volt test light and a helper:
Find the yellow wire at one corner of the 14-pin connector near the jump start terminal.
Separate the connector. Test for 12 volts on the yellow wire on the body side of the connector while the helper turns the key to the start position.

If there is 12 volts on the yellow wire, the problem is the 14-pin connector, the wire from there to the starter solenoid, or the starter solenoid. If there is no voltage on the connector, the problem is between there and the ignition switch. Put the connector back together.

Go to the Central Electric Panel and locate Relay V, the Starter Relay. Pull the relay. Connect the clip of the test light to a good ground. Check Terminal 30 for 12 volts.

Test Terminal 86 for 12 volts while the key is in the start position. If there is no voltage, the problem is in the ignition switch or the wiring between the switch and the relay.

Attach the test light clip to the 12 volt connectors at the top of the panel. Touch the test light to a good ground to make sure that it is connected correctly. Test Terminal 85 for ground. If there is no ground, the problem is in the connector in the spare tire well, the jumper in the connector, or the wiring between the connector and the relay.

 

Thank you all for the above. I'll print this out and let you know what I find

 

Wally,

I removed the battery and put on charge. I seemed to take the charge OK. On reinstalling. when moving the key to start, I can hear the relay click, but no energizing on the starter motor.

Here's what I found when following yr directions:

Using a 12 volt test light and a helper:
Find the yellow wire at one corner of the 14-pin connector near the jump start terminal.
Separate the connector. Test for 12 volts on the yellow wire on the body side of the connector while the helper turns the key to the start position.

I seperated the 14 point connectors. When turning the key to start: On the male side of the yellow wire, I had no power. On the female side I had power. I'm not sure what you consider the 'body side' of the connector. Since we showed power on the female side, I'm guessing that's the 'body side' you were talking about and that this shows the problem in the connector, wire to the solenoid or the solenoid



Go to the Central Electric Panel and locate Relay V, the Starter Relay. Pull the relay. Connect the clip of the test light to a good ground. Check Terminal 30 for 12 volts.

Test Terminal 86 for 12 volts while the key is in the start position. If there is no voltage, the problem is in the ignition switch or the wiring between the switch and the relay.

Terminal 30 had power
Terminal 86 had power when turning the key to start


Attach the test light clip to the 12 volt connectors at the top of the panel. Touch the test light to a good ground to make sure that it is connected correctly. Test Terminal 85 for ground. If there is no ground, the problem is in the connector in the spare tire well, the jumper in the connector, or the wiring between the connector and the relay.

Connected to the top of the electric panel for '+' and connected to '85' and had 12 volts of power.


Meanwhile, I'm going to jack up the car and inspect for wiring on the starter motor. Maybe even a love tap with the hammer.

Many thanks

 

A new starter motor is in your near future 8>)

 

me thinks yr right

 

How was the contact between the starter bracket on the bellhousing and the starter itself since this serves as a chassis ground point. Check all starter circuit cables as well. Test for voltage drop too if it still won't do anything, test between the terminal connectors and post, check continuity between S and M terminal on starter for high resistance (corrosion on contact disc or points in solenoid). Check the voltage drop between the ground and chassis WYIT sort of thing.

 

Transmission in neutral

All connections look firm to the starter motor, although the under body needs cleaning from oily residue... probably need new oil pan gasket. One issue I have is getting enough room under the car to manuver under the motor area and have room to work... my problem to solve. Once I get the car up high enough, I will disconnect cables, clean and replace. There's a heavy duty ground cable attached to the housing that looks like it could use a cleaning up.

One thing that seemed unusual to me, and maybe this just means I need to spend more time under the car, but the 1/4" gap between the starter motor and bell housing seems pointless and nothing more than potential entry of road dirt and oil...?? Is this right? See pic

 

928 116 427 02 Clutch Housing Sealing Strip #24

 

I don't know if it is still available. I just used closed cell neoprene with glue on one side. Cheap and can be cut to fit.
Bilal