1985 TOP END REFRESH-US
#16
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Actually other than breaking the bolts or stripping the head you cannot over tighten the bolts. The bolts are designed with a shoulder that mates against the head on the newer style and the stand off on the older covers. The shoiuder defines the distance and pressure of the covers against the head.
Putting on the covers is not like torquing a head, but working at opposite ends and sides is probably a good idea. On the old style bolts put some never seize on the threads. This will prevent the bolts from seizing and breaking off the stand offs the next time the cover is removed.
Oh I forgot to mention getting them off in the car means removing the left rear engine hoist loop. You only get a quarter turn even with an S wrench but it can be done. Without removing the loop there is no way to get the cover out of the engine compartment.
Putting on the covers is not like torquing a head, but working at opposite ends and sides is probably a good idea. On the old style bolts put some never seize on the threads. This will prevent the bolts from seizing and breaking off the stand offs the next time the cover is removed.
Oh I forgot to mention getting them off in the car means removing the left rear engine hoist loop. You only get a quarter turn even with an S wrench but it can be done. Without removing the loop there is no way to get the cover out of the engine compartment.
I beg to differ. Shoulder bolts can be overtorqued and because of the design there is a high likelihood that even if you don't break them going in, you're dooming someone to breaking them when they try to take them out.
Good point about the lifting ring. IIRC, you also have to bend the one on the front pax side a bit too, but may not have to remove it.
#17
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PC,
If you need anything or get stuck just drop me a PM or send up a thread. LOTS of S3 gurus on here.
Take your time and when you get in there you may be tempted to just keep going and do the water bridge and cam covers as well. Once you get that far into it, you might as well go the rest of the way. The materials are not that expensive and you'll feel better with the piece of mind of knowing it's all clean, new and torqued properly (probably the biggest reason why the cam covers leak or the bolts break is improper or uneven torquing).
This is a perfect description of the proper way to deal with this (and why). I figured this out while I was doing mine as well, but never thought to describe it that way. (I also had to sacrifice 3 or 4 of these 'two-piece' bolts during the process too).
JHowell, do you mind if I add this to my write-up?
If you need anything or get stuck just drop me a PM or send up a thread. LOTS of S3 gurus on here.
Take your time and when you get in there you may be tempted to just keep going and do the water bridge and cam covers as well. Once you get that far into it, you might as well go the rest of the way. The materials are not that expensive and you'll feel better with the piece of mind of knowing it's all clean, new and torqued properly (probably the biggest reason why the cam covers leak or the bolts break is improper or uneven torquing).
This is a perfect description of the proper way to deal with this (and why). I figured this out while I was doing mine as well, but never thought to describe it that way. (I also had to sacrifice 3 or 4 of these 'two-piece' bolts during the process too).
JHowell, do you mind if I add this to my write-up?
FWIW, when I tighten a valve cover, I do like Dan and run them all the way in. You can tighten the bolts all the way in before the gasket is completely compressed. The trick is to stop once hit the bottom.
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During top end refresh, I noticed that one of the intake tubes' bolts wasn't all the way snug. Didn't think too much until I tried to remove the PS rearmost one, which was all the way tightened.
It will not turn unless (too) great a pressure is used. I'm thinking it's going to break. Don't know if it's cross-threaded or corroded in, but before I go further I'm wondering if anyone has had this happen. Will I be able to tap it? Helicoil? JB Weld and re-do? Just preparing for the worst.
I'll dump some PB blaster on it, but don't have much hope of it working. It turned about a full turn so far and is starting to feel tighter! Think the PO's mech is a dumbass! He also mis-routed wires and electrical taped some connectors together. Just my luck
85-86 my
It will not turn unless (too) great a pressure is used. I'm thinking it's going to break. Don't know if it's cross-threaded or corroded in, but before I go further I'm wondering if anyone has had this happen. Will I be able to tap it? Helicoil? JB Weld and re-do? Just preparing for the worst.
I'll dump some PB blaster on it, but don't have much hope of it working. It turned about a full turn so far and is starting to feel tighter! Think the PO's mech is a dumbass! He also mis-routed wires and electrical taped some connectors together. Just my luck
85-86 my
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Try some Kano on the bolt and then work it in first and then out until it stops. Do this back and forth and it should start to come out. After the Kano you can try some regular oil or some Mystery Oil. It is not a big thing if you strip the threads. It is a bigger deal if you break the bolt. Drilling it out can be a pain and sometimes people are tempted to use an easyout in the hole and end up breaking that off. The best trick is to get some tubing at the hobby store fiting it together to slide inside the hole in the manifold and then use enough to shim down to the size of the drill. Then you can reposition the manifold and use it as a drill guide. Drill the bolt with the size drill for an 8mm tap and then retap the hole. If you are lucky things will work out well
As far as just tightening the cover bolts, I was not suggesting cranking down on them. One should use a torque wrench. My point is they are distance oriented not torque oriented. The crush on the gaskets is determined by the length of the bolts changing thightness within a normal range will not change how tight the gaskets become. My suggestion of using Never Sieze on the bolt threads between the stand off and bolt was to help the next guy. This is a compromise as the bolts do have a tendency to come loose. On the S4 where the bolts go into the head I used blue loctite. For what it is worth the S4 bolts can be used on the 85-86 covers once the stand offs have been removed.
Good luck with your engine.
As far as just tightening the cover bolts, I was not suggesting cranking down on them. One should use a torque wrench. My point is they are distance oriented not torque oriented. The crush on the gaskets is determined by the length of the bolts changing thightness within a normal range will not change how tight the gaskets become. My suggestion of using Never Sieze on the bolt threads between the stand off and bolt was to help the next guy. This is a compromise as the bolts do have a tendency to come loose. On the S4 where the bolts go into the head I used blue loctite. For what it is worth the S4 bolts can be used on the 85-86 covers once the stand offs have been removed.
Good luck with your engine.
#21
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This is a great thread for S3. Subscribed. Good luck with the 85 intake refresh. Its a great project. Patience with those standoffs. I snapped one in the head. Long day.
There is a new design installed beginning sometime in 86, but it can't be retrofitted to 85 unfortunately. Very big bolt heads, 13mm, for threads that should have a 10mm max head associated with them.
My TPS was filled with oil. I cleaned it out, and replaced the O-ring on the throttle body associated with the butterfly shaft end onto which the TPS fits. Check Dwayne's S4 intake writeup for details, there are bearings too, I think same for late car flappy, Roger has parts--- should you decide to go that deep into the throttle body (that you didn't want to remove in the first place!)
Perfect time to replace heater valve and short inlet hose with right part number.
Some pics.
There is a new design installed beginning sometime in 86, but it can't be retrofitted to 85 unfortunately. Very big bolt heads, 13mm, for threads that should have a 10mm max head associated with them.
My TPS was filled with oil. I cleaned it out, and replaced the O-ring on the throttle body associated with the butterfly shaft end onto which the TPS fits. Check Dwayne's S4 intake writeup for details, there are bearings too, I think same for late car flappy, Roger has parts--- should you decide to go that deep into the throttle body (that you didn't want to remove in the first place!)
Perfect time to replace heater valve and short inlet hose with right part number.
Some pics.
Last edited by Landseer; 11-19-2011 at 08:53 AM.
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Working in and out with generous amount of PB blaster overnight made the difference. Got em out.
I will be taking intake pieces to get media blasted Monday.
Wondering the best way to clean up the fuel rails? Dawn and dishwasher? LOL
No Significant other to worry about..
I was really worried the first time I looked under the hood of this beast! So many damn wires, vac lines, etc. But as I'm working, and taking pics, and notes, it's starting to make a little more sense.
I know after all these years people have come up with some interesting and cleaner ways to do the engine area. On my year, early 86, I would like to hear about any improvements in wiring and vac line layout.
Any suggestions?
Jchiodi
I will be taking intake pieces to get media blasted Monday.
Wondering the best way to clean up the fuel rails? Dawn and dishwasher? LOL
No Significant other to worry about..
I was really worried the first time I looked under the hood of this beast! So many damn wires, vac lines, etc. But as I'm working, and taking pics, and notes, it's starting to make a little more sense.
I know after all these years people have come up with some interesting and cleaner ways to do the engine area. On my year, early 86, I would like to hear about any improvements in wiring and vac line layout.
Any suggestions?
Jchiodi
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I upgraded a lot of hoses with silicon hose. The German rubber is crap. Maybe it was the Catholic influence on birth control. The heater hoses seem to last forever. Not sure why. But I did replace the hose from the block to the heater valve with a silicon hose. The same with the hoses under the radiator tank. They are hard to get to and probably do not break that often but the silicon makes a permanent upgrade. The boots on the intake can be replaced with silicon and new clamps. This will eliminate possible vacuum leaks and give the engine an upgraded look. I did find it very diffucult to get the manifold to fit just right. They should just go back into place but somehow tightening the clamps tended to push the manifold away causing it not to seal. I was surprised at how much better and smoother the engine ran when it was done. Of course i set the valve timing and replaced the torque tube bearing too.
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Have not used them YET, but the next 85/86 I do a cam cover job on, I will be using them. Talked to Mark a few times about them and saw them on his '86 race car. Very nice product.
#30
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Now it is! Great additions. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Well la-de-da! Your cleaning lady!
Here's a link for it: http://www.sendspace.com/file/tdtxy0
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![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here's a link for it: http://www.sendspace.com/file/tdtxy0
(Not sure how much longer this will be there, just PM if it expires and I'll upload it again)