rear hatch lock
11-08-2011, 10:42 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
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rear hatch lock
all of a sudden i put the key in to open the hatch and the key goes all the way in as usual but just turn and doesn't open, something broke inside? repairable? The remote does work.
Thanks
Barry
Thanks
Barry
11-08-2011, 11:25 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
Repairable? It's German of course it's repairable, the question is how much 
You will have to enter from the front, pull the tool tray out and manualy open the hatch. From there you willl see whats keeping it from working.
You will have to enter from the front, pull the tool tray out and manualy open the hatch. From there you willl see whats keeping it from working.
11-09-2011, 10:19 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Happened on mine a while back. I searched the forum pretty extensively and there is a write-up on the repair procedure, but it looked like a total pain with lots of very small parts. I just ordered a new one from 928 Intl.
One thing to keep in mind, there are different hatch locks for alarm vs. non alarm cars. You can put a non-alarm lock into a car that has an alarm (its about $100 cheaper) but the key is physcially shorter so if you go that route you may not be able to get the new hatch lock re-keyed to match the rest of the car. I now have two different keys, one for the hatch and one for the rest of the car.
If you go that route you need to disconenct the brown wire behind the tool kit that triggers the hatch alarm. I didn't realize there were different parts for alarm vs. non-alarm back when I ordered mine. If I were doing it again I would just order the alarm style hatch lock.
One thing to keep in mind, there are different hatch locks for alarm vs. non alarm cars. You can put a non-alarm lock into a car that has an alarm (its about $100 cheaper) but the key is physcially shorter so if you go that route you may not be able to get the new hatch lock re-keyed to match the rest of the car. I now have two different keys, one for the hatch and one for the rest of the car.
If you go that route you need to disconenct the brown wire behind the tool kit that triggers the hatch alarm. I didn't realize there were different parts for alarm vs. non-alarm back when I ordered mine. If I were doing it again I would just order the alarm style hatch lock.
11-09-2011, 01:13 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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Thanks Chris
I don't use my alarm anyway (i use the short red color key) and i don't mind the extra key as my remote release works so i might go with the non-alarm one but you said i must disconnect the brown wire and that's ok isn't it?
Thanks
Barry
I don't use my alarm anyway (i use the short red color key) and i don't mind the extra key as my remote release works so i might go with the non-alarm one but you said i must disconnect the brown wire and that's ok isn't it?
Thanks
Barry
11-09-2011, 01:55 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
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Thanks Brad, i will have a look/take apart first before i order one.
Now about the brown wire Chris, if i am just changing the male part of the lock it should have anything to do with the brown wire yes/no?
Now about the brown wire Chris, if i am just changing the male part of the lock it should have anything to do with the brown wire yes/no?
11-09-2011, 02:18 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Yes - I just double cheked my old email from Tom at 928 Intl. You disconnect the pin switch to the light at the bottom of the receiver. If you don't disconnect it, if the car is locked and you unlock the hatch with the key, the alarm will go off. If you disconnect the wire leading to the light below the reciever it basically takes the hatch out of the alarm loop.
I said it was brown based on memory, but its been over a year. I'll double check it tonight.
Optionally you can leave it connected and it will work fine, you just have to make sure that the car is unlocked if you open the hatch with the key. I had initially left it that way thinking that if I was unlocking the hatch with the key it would be generally at a time when the car was already unlocked. But I quickly discovered after setting off my alarm a few times that wasn't the case.
In the end I figured if anyone was going to break into the car they would most likely break a side window and come in through the door than pry open the hatch and crawl in through the back. So I don't think not having the hatch wired to the alarm significantly increases any risk of theft.
Back then the non-alarm lock was around $150 I think and the alarm lock was between $250 and $300.
I said it was brown based on memory, but its been over a year. I'll double check it tonight.
Optionally you can leave it connected and it will work fine, you just have to make sure that the car is unlocked if you open the hatch with the key. I had initially left it that way thinking that if I was unlocking the hatch with the key it would be generally at a time when the car was already unlocked. But I quickly discovered after setting off my alarm a few times that wasn't the case.
In the end I figured if anyone was going to break into the car they would most likely break a side window and come in through the door than pry open the hatch and crawl in through the back. So I don't think not having the hatch wired to the alarm significantly increases any risk of theft.
Back then the non-alarm lock was around $150 I think and the alarm lock was between $250 and $300.
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11-09-2011, 02:53 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
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Yes - I just double cheked my old email from Tom at 928 Intl. You disconnect the pin switch to the light at the bottom of the receiver. If you don't disconnect it, if the car is locked and you unlock the hatch with the key, the alarm will go off. If you disconnect the wire leading to the light below the reciever it basically takes the hatch out of the alarm loop.
I said it was brown based on memory, but its been over a year. I'll double check it tonight.
Optionally you can leave it connected and it will work fine, you just have to make sure that the car is unlocked if you open the hatch with the key. I had initially left it that way thinking that if I was unlocking the hatch with the key it would be generally at a time when the car was already unlocked. But I quickly discovered after setting off my alarm a few times that wasn't the case.
In the end I figured if anyone was going to break into the car they would most likely break a side window and come in through the door than pry open the hatch and crawl in through the back. So I don't think not having the hatch wired to the alarm significantly increases any risk of theft.
Back then the non-alarm lock was around $150 I think and the alarm lock was between $250 and $300.
I said it was brown based on memory, but its been over a year. I'll double check it tonight.
Optionally you can leave it connected and it will work fine, you just have to make sure that the car is unlocked if you open the hatch with the key. I had initially left it that way thinking that if I was unlocking the hatch with the key it would be generally at a time when the car was already unlocked. But I quickly discovered after setting off my alarm a few times that wasn't the case.
In the end I figured if anyone was going to break into the car they would most likely break a side window and come in through the door than pry open the hatch and crawl in through the back. So I don't think not having the hatch wired to the alarm significantly increases any risk of theft.
Back then the non-alarm lock was around $150 I think and the alarm lock was between $250 and $300.
11-09-2011, 03:18 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Interesting. I did not know you could use non-alarm keys on locks with alarms. My car came with two identical longer keys and no red key. But it sounds like if you are already using the short red key then the non-alarm lock will be fine. It will come with the same type of short red key.
11-09-2011, 08:20 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
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ok went home and took apart the lock and found the metal piece that pushes the tongue is broken, the lock is wired. can anyone tell me if i were to buy a non- alarm lock replacement, can i just cap off the wire and won't affect the alarm? (i only use the short red key for doors)
Thanks
Thanks
11-09-2011, 11:52 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
When you say the lock is wired, you mean it has a harness connection? That sounds familiar and I think I just unpugged it. You can email 928Intl to make sure. They helped me when I changed mine. Unfortunatley I don't have the original lock anymore to compare.
11-10-2011, 11:01 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
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did some more searching and found what i need....with me using the short red key for locking, i don't have to worry about replacing it with the non- alarm lock(still $100.00 but verses $400.00) and tape the wire.
thanks
thanks
