Donald

Bill-
All thanks to your previous work & post. I used Bernzomatic silver/rosin core. Neither wire broke, which one do you mean? I desoldered both of them, with one nestled in the channel and going to the outer side of the slip ring, and one short one at the inner side.
Yes, and he was very helpful, and even encouraging when I told him my best work w/ a soldering iron was in lighting firecrackers. "Go on, how much worse could the alternator be?" [not actually factual... I may have said primers].

Rob Edwards

I spoke with Erik today, he was initially hesitant to sell directly to me but it turns out there are none of his distributors in my zip code, so I ordered 2 alternators' worth of replacement bits. Exact same prices as on Donald's receipt. He was very nice- I asked him the price of the rectifier and he said hold on to your seat, and I told him I'd been buying Porsche parts for years, and that he couldn't hurt me. He laughed and said he'd worked the counter in a Porsche dealer a long time ago and still remembered the sticker shock stories.

When I rebuilt my starter I bought one of the Weller propane-powered soldering irons for the brushes, that should have enough heat for the slip rings.

dr bob

Rob--

Check the diodes before you replace. Generally they will survive anything up to and sometimes including putting the battery in backwards. Easy check when the alternator is apartwith anymid-grade DMM or better with diode check function.

Bill Ball

They survived the time I hooked up the jumpers backwards.

Bill Ball

Glad to hear it. I'll give it a go next time.

Koenig-Specials 928

Yes, after the rebuild he says he first bench tests it and if required he will adjust to ensure 14.5 on the bench (no load). However, after you put it in your car, you can always re-adjust it to 13.5 with load

T_MaX

Donald I have my alternator apart and parts due here ~ this Tuesday. I broke out my 140 watt iron and tried to unsolder the commutator and it just soaked up the heat and laughed at me. What size (watts) soldering iron did you use?

Does anyone have the P/N for the bearings?

After I failed to unsolder the commutator, I cleaned it up just in case I don't have the time or can't find the required soldering iron.

Donald

Curtis:
you have a like- new slip ring on already, those are the only wires that need to be desolder-resoldered. Is that the old one or new? If that is the old I would not change it. If you are trying to desolder on the main part of that big chunk of metal, don't! () Does that help?

Bearing part number is on the Wagner invoice above, and also in Bill's write-up.

T_MaX

I tried to unsolder it at the two slip ring points you showed in your picture. I could not unsolder the old slip ring so I trued it up. My slip ring was not as grooved as yours, I figured a person should at least true it up before install new brushes.

If you don't get enough heat to the joint your tying to solder, you will get what is called a cold solder joint, your connection will not hold up, I think to get a good solder job, it will take more than 140 watts of heat.

I didn't order new bearings because they sounded good. However, after I pull it apart the larger bearing has leaked some of its grease out and has just started to get a little noisy. I'm going to try an find them locally.

The Range Rover article that Bill references lists:

Rear-small: 6203 RS or 6203 2RS (rubber seal) 17mm ID x 40mm OD x 12mm W
Front-large: 6303 RS or 6303 2RS (rubber seal) 17mm ID x 47mm OD x 14mm W

I was hoping someone could verify these number.

S4ordie

Does anyone know what the output cure looks like for this upgraded/rebuilt alternator is? rpm/amp output? It's the low rpm output that really matters with these cars. I envision the following scenario; night, raining, hot humid weather, slow traffic with lots of idling, running the Han's carputer, Sharkwoofer audio, etc. This means just about every possible electrical draw is running at low rpm. This should be the lowest common denominator for the alternator output. Higher rpms are not so much of a concern.

T_MaX

@ Dan H, well along with the change of the Crankshaft pulley and a new diecast alternator fan. The other thing Porsche did was to increased the size of some of the wiring (both +&-). Although it would be way to much work to rewire the 928. It would be a good idea to clean all grounds, add ground wires to problem areas and maybe add direct power through relays to high demand areas like the headlights, blower fan and wiper motor.

dcrasta

Ahh.. good stuff. I didn't account for the drop in volts. I wonder why we lose so much (or is this a typical value (voltage) for most cars? ).

T_MaX

I think Porsche got a little ahead of themselves and tried to correct some of the issues as they went along. The nice thing is they documented almost everything they did. So we can now look back and try and retro the changes that affects us.

T_MaX

The parts have come in and I'm starting to get this project going. First off let me just say it was a pain to get the stator unsoldered from the rectifier. I do not own a soldering gun that gets hot enough to do the job right so I improvised and used a small hand torch to super charge the iron.
The next problem is that the wire insulation is brittle and will need to be replaced before I can finish putting this back together. So now I off to town to find the bearings and high temp wire insulation.

Here are a few more pictures of the project so far.

T_MaX

Here are some pictures of the parts.