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No Start early 86

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Old 11-01-2011, 01:41 PM
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Jchiodi
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Default No Start early 86

Had this car for 6 months, driven pretty regularly. I had just put in garage for a winter of work, when it got nice out and thought I drive one more time.

First time I've had a no-start! Won't start with shot of ether either. so far the only thing I've done is wiggle the relays. When key goes to run position I can feel and hear the relay click. But don't hear the fuel pump run.

Note: I have a ton of minor electrical problems, and tried to get to all the ground points, doesn't seem to help any of them!

No instrument lights, (except when my passenger side headlight burned out?)
Intermittent hi-beam, intermittent horn, interior light near mirror out, no fog lights. I was putting this car in to address these and do a lot of work on intake, and vacuum hoses, etc. But now not sure if I want to address this first or not...

any thoughts on where to start on this, or just go with trying to get the whole thing cleaned up?

Thanks,

jchiodi
Old 11-01-2011, 02:03 PM
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RFJ
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Fix it first,then drive and feel good about it.Ray
Old 11-01-2011, 02:07 PM
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SeanR
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I'd start with replacing the relays. If it's not running with a shot of ether then you have no spark. Start with the injection/LH/fuel pump relays. If that's a no go, look at the crank position sensor, then the ignition switch.
Old 11-01-2011, 03:35 PM
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JHowell37
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Correct the electrical problems before tackling mechanical maintenance. Make sure your battery is still good. A weak battery might have enough power power to turn the engine, but it won't have enough to run the LH/EZF and you'll have a no start.

All the shiny, metal ( # 53) relays should be pulled, thrown away, and replaced with new ones. When I replaced all of mine, I got them from the VW dealer and even the new gray plastic ones had 53 written on them. I have never had a relay issue in 60K miles of driving.

If the relays and battery check out fine, then do as SeanR said and look at the CPS. There's no real way to check it without an oscilloscope, so most people just replace it when there's a no start issue. The only method for checking it is to see if the tach moves when cranking the engine. The tach should jump when the marks on the flywheel pass the CPS. This method isn't always reliable, so again, replacement is the best option. Even if it isn't bad, it will go bad. I replaced it in my '85 over the summer when I was having some other running issues. Replacement didn't affect anything, so I wound up replacing a good CPS (that had 170K miles.) OTOH, a month later I replaced one for someone whose car has only 80K miles, and his had been replaced once before. Replacing it solved his problem. So as you can see, there's no rhyme or reason to their failure, but age typically is a factor.

For the other electrical issues, after cleaning the grounds, my suggestion is to remove and replace every single fuse. They're cheap, and fortunately, they're more prone to corrosion than the sockets they plug into. I've removed many fuses that appeared good, and replaced them with a new one, and had the item in question start working again. Heavy corrosion on a 25 year old fuse can be cause a lot of headaches.
Old 11-01-2011, 09:04 PM
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After you run through the electrical checks and relay replacements and some key fuse replacements ....remember that 85 and 86 sometimes flood. Out of the blue. Especially after a short move on the driveway in my case. They act dead. Try foot all the way to floor, let it crank for 15 or 20 or so seconds at a time. After a few tries, it may cough, billow white gas smoke, then clear itself.

But solving your electrical problems first is the best way to proceed.
Old 11-02-2011, 08:22 AM
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Jchiodi
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Hmm, I really appreciate the suggestions. I feel nervous about doing the intake refresh without having the car running in the first place. It has always started after the second try. crank for a few seconds, then on the next crank started right up. (I miss that sound already,lol)

I will get the relays replaced, then all fuses, (done about 10 of em already). Then go from there. I've got the air filter case and tubes off and can see a lot of corroded electrical connections that I'll clean up.

BTW, does VW have a part number/reference for the relays?

jchiodi
Old 11-02-2011, 09:48 AM
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WallyP

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Do not use Chinese fuses.
Old 11-05-2011, 09:02 AM
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Jchiodi
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Got it going! Changed out all fuses, all 53 relays. Cleaned contacts on the temp sensor. Finally got it back to where I was originally.

Now to source parts for intake refresh.

I do plan on trying to do at least 3 upgrades.

Adjustable pressure reg, and injectors(?)
Performance Chip
Exhaust system upgrade(?)
Not sure I want to mess with the way it sounds, it almost worth it just to let it sit and idle,lol.
Old 11-05-2011, 09:25 AM
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Excellent! Nice work.
Did you clean all ground points & especially, change all fuel lines?

Upgrades? You might like PorKen setup, his chips + a fuel reg from the 87 cars that runs +10psi or so.

We have an 86 auto with no upgrades. Smooth and powerful.
Also an 85 auto with the PorKen setup. Its a bit stronger running.

Exhaust changes are possible / well documented and well supported. Mine are stock and its plenty of power for me. Just depends on what you want. We have a 84 Euro with some fancy exhaust treatments and its a head turner. Just like every Mustang and Camaro. Different driving experience. Always scanning the horizon so I can feather the gas pedal to turn heads. Gets old. But its whatever you want.

Enjoy the car. I've been passing thru Ohio a lot recently in the 85, where are you at, maybe we can grab a cup of coffee on one of my pit stops?



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