SMT,
These cams are big for a 32V motor,
230 duration @.050" lift .437" (IN)
228 duration @.050" lift .437" (EX)
But the LH handles them beautifully, partially because of the wide LSA (114).
They see very little loss in the bottom (from SOP), but the top end is scary quick.

Terry is going to see about trying the emissions again today with just increasing the idle to 1,000rpm. (tightening throttle cable) we will soon find out. Worst case I will either richen up the mid, or pull down the idle area.

 

You can fix the ISV opening with the ST to set the idle speed higher if you need.....

 

John,

I have tried that on my car and the moment I switched over it would work great when idling but stall when returning to an idle, unless it was really high.
Is there a possibility of enabling another setting for higher idle speeds without disabling the adjustment code?

 

Idle control system is very complicated, like you wouldn't believe..... however I'm surprised you get a stalling problem. try again once you get the fuelling sorted.

Do you think you are getting some intake reversion that is fooling the MAF with the back pulse into the MAF ?

 

To give everyone a visual, here are the specs for the LT5 ZR1 camshaft. Probably the closest thing to a 928 engine from that era with 405bhp

Intake is split Dur. @ .050 .214 .229 Lift .390
Exhaust Duration @.050 Dur.214 .214 Lift .390

 

Its a big CAM clean air machine ! Turned the idle up to 950 . dyno is next . Keep in mind this is a stock car , just cams and a RMB

 

OOOOO. A new winter project. Tri Flow cams? Drop in and go? I would even be willing to pull the engine again to do these if they give more power!

 

Immediately, this came to mind.

 

Excellent news Terry,
Thanks for posting!

 

We have done zero tuning on Terry's GT yet. Though it will likely pick up big mid range and some top end from tuning.

So yes, you can drop in and drive.

 

Sorry John, I had missed this before.
When I spoke to Jim Coreman about this, he said that he had experienced the same thing (with stock cams).
And having tuned a number of aftermarket systems to use the stock ISV and adjusting the P.I.D. I can believe and understand how complex the system is.
All I can say is that if I had the ability to set points/change the PID settings I could achieve a much nicer, higher idle. The ISV system should when it sees the idle switch activate open the ISV and then lower it down, thus controlling its return to idle. Without it giving it that little shot of air before returning to idle it falls off too fast and stalls.

I may see a tiny bit of intake reversion (accounting for a slightly richer idle/lean mid), but it must be very minimal as the car still idles and drives extremely well.
The stage II grind has 1 deg of overlap @.050" which is very minimal.

 

What tools do you use, to pull the valve retainers out?

 

Valve keepers are removed with a magnet once the spring is compressed.

Valve stem seals, I used about 6 different tools, with a slight amount of frustration. Ended up settling with 2 tools used in unison to be able to launch them (they shot off......).

 

I must admit..just looking at the difficulty in doing this myself.

 

If you pull the engine it should be fairly easy with the factory tools, or as easy as the factory tools make it...
If you do this with the engine in the car, you need to get creative.

Anyone with a set of the cams who wants to do this job let me know and I will show you what is needed to be made.