POWDER COATING INTAKE
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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what are the most important things to know about powder coating your intake and cam covers?
The things you need to tell your powder coater that he does not know?
The things you need to tell your powder coater that he does not know?
#2
Team Owner
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make sure you wash the parts off after you get them back with hot water and car soap,
then blow dry with compressed air,
chase out with a tap any bolt holes prior to wash as the blast media will fill them
then blow dry with compressed air,
chase out with a tap any bolt holes prior to wash as the blast media will fill them
#3
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Do not get any power in threaded holes or mating surfaces.
When you get it back, wash it out like you've never washed anything before.
When you get it back, wash it out like you've never washed anything before.
#4
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Make sure EVERYTHING is clean...
I cleaned and scrubbed inside of everything 6-7 times. Then learned the hard way, to tap all the threads b4 bolting back together... I missed one on the back of my passenger side cam cover... $60 to remove a busted bolt and install a thread sert....
Make sure the pc shop TAPES off or plugs all of the threaded holes, and tapes the mating surfaces.... You'll have a hell of a good time putting things back together if they cheat....
I cleaned and scrubbed inside of everything 6-7 times. Then learned the hard way, to tap all the threads b4 bolting back together... I missed one on the back of my passenger side cam cover... $60 to remove a busted bolt and install a thread sert....
Make sure the pc shop TAPES off or plugs all of the threaded holes, and tapes the mating surfaces.... You'll have a hell of a good time putting things back together if they cheat....
#5
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Assuming (based on your Rennlist handle) that you've got an '85, though, some of the guide won't apply; it's oriented toward '87 and later.
#7
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Mine was around $800. That included all the prep work (I didn't do anything other than pressure washing the worst of the flaking paint and grime off before handing them all the stuff). I remember that they mentioned that they spent a few hours on cleaning and blasting.
I read multiple accounts of people getting theirs done for considerably less.
I had no desire to shop around for "cheap"; I just wanted a high quality, thorough job. I was very happy with what I got for my money. They did exactly as I requested (related in particular to plugging/masking exactly as I specified, only putting clear coat (and not the more textured base coat) in the injector holes, etc. My chosen finish was a satin clear top coat over a silver hybrid base coat. I had very little (less than half an hour of) follow-up work to scrape a few areas that got a just a little coating where it didn't belong. In other words, I didn't have to waste a lot of time fixing stuff that they messed up. Note that it's not trivial to remove coating from where it didn't belong—that stuff really sticks like glue.
I read multiple accounts of people getting theirs done for considerably less.
I had no desire to shop around for "cheap"; I just wanted a high quality, thorough job. I was very happy with what I got for my money. They did exactly as I requested (related in particular to plugging/masking exactly as I specified, only putting clear coat (and not the more textured base coat) in the injector holes, etc. My chosen finish was a satin clear top coat over a silver hybrid base coat. I had very little (less than half an hour of) follow-up work to scrape a few areas that got a just a little coating where it didn't belong. In other words, I didn't have to waste a lot of time fixing stuff that they messed up. Note that it's not trivial to remove coating from where it didn't belong—that stuff really sticks like glue.
Last edited by Ed Scherer; 10-18-2011 at 03:26 PM.
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#8
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My pc cost about $700. It was sandblasted, based, and then cleared, baked twice. I had both cam covers and complete intake manifold done.
Plus another $150 for water jacket, t-stat elbow, and fan mount. Done in the same color same process.
Plus another $150 for water jacket, t-stat elbow, and fan mount. Done in the same color same process.
#10
Burning Brakes
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Just a note on cost. 16v intakes are quite a bit easier to PC than 32v intakes. Les prep, no original factory coating to remove, less masking etc. Also depends if the customer or the powder being applied requires a topcoat.
To get a 32v intake/cam covers/water bridge and misc hardware done propery for 300 would be a STEAL!
To get a 32v intake/cam covers/water bridge and misc hardware done propery for 300 would be a STEAL!