Ad0911

Well, not all of us have a couple of 4wd cars at hand. Those long threwds really cost 2 x nothing and the steel plate is multifunctional because I used it just like that to remove the inner bearing that sits in the flywheel. It only needs a couple of holes added to it. Removing the driveshaft and bearings and putting it all together took one evening. Preparation also took an evening.

AO

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I especially like the idea of using the lift (thanks Greg), but the car is on there right now and I have a ceiling that is in the way, but I might be able to figure it out.

I also have a 20-ton shop press that I think I can use - or a long piece of threaded rod. The ideas are coming and I'll post here my eventual solution.

We used a BFH on my friend's TT, but he was replacing the bearing with Constatine's bearings, so we didn't care if we damaged the bearings or carriers - which we did.

It didn't take too long. The worst part is getting the upper 2 bolts in the bell housing. I almost dropped the clutch (probably should have - still might). The opening is just wide enough to get a single click on a gear-wrench. I need to pick up a set of stubby gear wrenches - because I think that will help.

It took about an hour to get the exhaust and heat shields down would have been less but I had an exhaust bolt that locked up on me and I had to cut it off. After that I would say it took about another hour - maybe two if you include head scratching and interruptions from the wife and kids to drop the tube down and out.

James Bailey

Most would drop the clutch which give you access to the pilot bearing which may have been overworked trying to stabilize the unsupported front end of the driveshaft.......

AO

Way to lay on the guilt, Jim... Thanks.

Ninespub

AO, tell me that that picture of you with the torque tube wasn't planned. Yeah, you got your shaft out alright..............in your dreams! I can't believe no one else commented on it yet, either....esp Hacker and your other "close" friends.

blown 87

Why would you need four wheel drive cars???

Me thinks some thing might have been lost in translation.

Imo000

I used a forklift to push the shaft in. A nice chuck of solid steel and the weight of the forks was was enough to get it in.

chrly924s

1/2" all thread rod & matching nuts from Lowes. $12. When I did my 83, I had some front spring adjusters that I screwed together and used to pull the bearings out. They just fit in the TT and kept the carriers straight; otherwise they bind. Had to make something out of wood for this when I did the 81. Bearings from Roger, inserts from Jagend.

Dwayne

Hello Andrew,
I used a threaded rod and wooden shuttle (looks like a roll of toilet paper) to ensure the bearings come out (or go in) straight and true. Easy as falling off a log! Here's the link:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...re-w-pics.html

AO

Hi Dwayne,
Thanks for the link to your outstanding writeup. I think I'm going to use your threaded rod procedure. Now, I just need to find a 5' length of threaded rod.

Edit: Looks like Lowes carries 6' lengths.

the flyin' scotsman

we saw it Paul but after the hood/Andrew debacle.....well, we dont want to go there, do we?

Back to the scheduled program you can build a horizontal press using a bumper attached to aforementioned 4x4s......wood at one end and BFM Hummer suitably equipped with optional ram rod at the other and go easy. Brgs should move then.

camboinc

very impressive shaft sir. any luck on cutting the tendon and making it larger, leon?

Ad0911

I don't know if it's in the writeup somewhere but I do think that the exact positioningof the driveshaft in the tube is critical to prevent excess load on the input shaft of the gearbox. The locking bolt should go in without resitance. It really comes down to a tolerance within 1 mm, at least that's what I think of it. It isn't in the wsm.

dprantl

I also used the 3" PVC pipe pieces when I did mine. All it took was to stand the TT up and use the whole thing as a slide hammer to push the bearings out. It's reasonably heavy so if you lift it up 3 feet, then drop it (while pushing down as well) on a concrete floor, that will impart a lot of force on the PVC pipe and on the bearings. I made sure to spray lots of WD-40 down the tube beforehand and wait 1 hour for each end for it to soak. If the inside TT walls are not clean/lubricated, the bearings will not want to come out.

Once they are out, make sure to scrub the inside clean.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

dprantl

I would also like to add that one of the reasons I went with the super bearings instead of just replacing the bearings in the carriers themselves is because the super bearings come with new carriers. IMO one of the reasons why the bearings migrate is because the outside rubber of the carriers degrades over time and they become loose. I guess if you replace just the bearings and then pin the carriers in place, you will stop them from migrating in the future. They also remove the need for the dampener in there. My dampener was in 3 separate pieces when it came out...

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft