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Repainting the 1:18 Autoart model

 
Old 10-12-2011, 06:51 PM
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concor
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Default Repainting the 1:18 Autoart model

I don't know anything about repainting model cars, but I'm gonna give it a go. Google is my friend It's supposed to become ruby red.




Only 50 pieces...


Trying to remove the white paint with paint stripper:


Apparently over cleaner should clean the plastic parts of paint without damaging the plastic like the paint stripper:


Left to right, metal primer, plastic primer, paint, clear coat. The little bottle is the real car color.
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:11 PM
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whiteNSXs
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You should use model paint sprayed from an airbrush. The spray can paint is too thick with coarse flakes. The car will end up looking "toyish".
I used to assemble models but don't have time anymore. I ended up giving away a few 928 models such as the Tamiya 1/20 928s several years ago.
Steve
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Old 10-12-2011, 07:48 PM
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Jadz928
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Cool! You are hardcore. How easily did it come apart?
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:39 AM
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If the oven cleaner does not strip the plastic, brake fluid will and it won't hurt the plastic.
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Old 10-13-2011, 01:38 AM
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keep posting pics. I may do the interior of my Blumaxx model, and change the black to cork to make it match my car.
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Old 10-13-2011, 03:53 AM
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The model came apart quite decent. You have to brake off everything as it is glued together. Most parts click/snap off without any damage. Sometimes the little pin behind it breaks off, although a bit of glue should fix that. I did however break a rear quarter window which kinda sucks. That could have been avoided by applying pressure to it over the complete window with two/three fingers. Ah well. My real 928 isn't perfect either

Good idea about the paint thickness whiteNSXs! I wouldn't want details to get lost, or doors not to close. I don't have an airbrush. Is paint spray can paint meant for car models also thinner than normal can paint? Then I'll replace these cans.

EDIT: I think I'll warm the cans before spraying. A tip I found at the end of this video:

Last edited by concor; 10-13-2011 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 10-13-2011, 12:23 PM
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You,ve certainly done a good job in dissecting your model, as has been mentioned you need a good air brush to get an unmottled finish. I was lucky mine came in Minerva blue, but not totally happy about the " heavy " look on the fender returns I painted them a matt black, looks more realistic. Looking forward to seeing your end result ! Good luck.

Fender pic,s--
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/dscf2070ne.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/37/dscf2071m.jpg/

Ken
80 928 S
5 Speed

UK
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:56 PM
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concor
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Little update. Here in old brake fluid:


After a couple of days:


It wasn't going fast enough, so I sanded it with grit 50


In paint remover again:


Cleaned it and sanded it with grit 600. Now it's shiny





In primer:
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:26 PM
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whiteNSXs
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Originally Posted by concor View Post
The model came apart quite decent. You have to brake off everything as it is glued together. Most parts click/snap off without any damage. Sometimes the little pin behind it breaks off, although a bit of glue should fix that. I did however break a rear quarter window which kinda sucks. That could have been avoided by applying pressure to it over the complete window with two/three fingers. Ah well. My real 928 isn't perfect either

Good idea about the paint thickness whiteNSXs! I wouldn't want details to get lost, or doors not to close. I don't have an airbrush. Is paint spray can paint meant for car models also thinner than normal can paint? Then I'll replace these cans.

EDIT: I think I'll warm the cans before spraying. A tip I found at the end of this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnmJwHNOfmU
Yes, the model spray paints are supposed to be thinner than the ordinary spray paints. Make sure that you shake the cans very thoroughly and paint thinly. It will come out much better with several thin coats than one thick coat. I used Tamiya spray cans before I bought my first airbrush 25 years ago. Absolutely no comparison in finish quality. Airbrush is a must for a quality model paint job.
Steve
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:34 PM
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Hi,

Just a tip. Tamiya brand spray paint for model cars is just about the best that I know of from an aerosol can. Give the can a really good shake and warm it up, as you suggested. It gives the best gloss finish that I know of without needing to polish and cut back. (you can still do this if you want to) Tamiya also make a final coating wax to suit.

Just make sure that you get the TS spray for plastic, not the PS spray, which is for radio control car bodies.

No connection, just a long term plastic kit junkie.

Regards,

Jed
Sydney, Australia
83S Kiln Red 3-speed
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:47 AM
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Erik N
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You are $200 away from a $40 car.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:13 PM
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Don't you wish a full size repaint was this easy.

That stripped body looks spot on what the full size looks stripped.

Looking forward to the final product....keep it up...its looking great.
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Old 10-22-2011, 06:26 AM
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It was paint time yesterday I sanded the primer with grit 600 and dusted that off. Then I did two mist coats of lacquer followed by two wet coats. And finally two wet coats of clear coat.

I think I'll polish it next week. I have some old rubbing polish stuff laying around that might work. And I have grit 1200 which might be good for removing a hair that got caught on it. Have to do some more googling to figure out how that works.

Before clear coat:


After clear:




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Old 10-22-2011, 07:25 AM
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This looks very promising! Now I'm just curious how you are going to precisely redo the black trim around the windows... if you can pull this off, the outcome of this project will be really awesome!

Is there any other material you can use to replace the broken rear quarter window?
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:31 AM
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That looks to be a large cat. Paint looks great!
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