Noticable difference after Compression restore treatment
#16
Rest in Peace
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BG makes a line of very good stuff, we use it by the case load at my shop.
All my cars get the MOA with every oil change, the 3 part cleaner every 15,000 miles.
I use the Gear oil additive and many of the other products.
They have changed my views on the "Mechanic in a can" products.
All my cars get the MOA with every oil change, the 3 part cleaner every 15,000 miles.
I use the Gear oil additive and many of the other products.
They have changed my views on the "Mechanic in a can" products.
#18
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GM "Top Engine Cleaner" works well on engines where you can pour it in - don't know how you would safely use it on the 928. It is basically butyl cellosolve.
Getting even distribution without damaging the MAF is an interesting problem.
Back in the day, J. C. Whitney sold a gadget to introduce water as you drove. Greatly increased fuel mileage, made the engine run better, and made your tool larger. Consisted of a plastic tank, hose and nozzle. Hook the hose to the intake manifold and mount the tank nearby, then fill the tank.
Getting even distribution without damaging the MAF is an interesting problem.
Back in the day, J. C. Whitney sold a gadget to introduce water as you drove. Greatly increased fuel mileage, made the engine run better, and made your tool larger. Consisted of a plastic tank, hose and nozzle. Hook the hose to the intake manifold and mount the tank nearby, then fill the tank.
#19
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GM "Top Engine Cleaner" works well on engines where you can pour it in - don't know how you would safely use it on the 928. It is basically butyl cellosolve.
Getting even distribution without damaging the MAF is an interesting problem.
Back in the day, J. C. Whitney sold a gadget to introduce water as you drove. Greatly increased fuel mileage, made the engine run better, and made your tool larger. Consisted of a plastic tank, hose and nozzle. Hook the hose to the intake manifold and mount the tank nearby, then fill the tank.
Getting even distribution without damaging the MAF is an interesting problem.
Back in the day, J. C. Whitney sold a gadget to introduce water as you drove. Greatly increased fuel mileage, made the engine run better, and made your tool larger. Consisted of a plastic tank, hose and nozzle. Hook the hose to the intake manifold and mount the tank nearby, then fill the tank.
#21
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Used to use old (but clear) brake fluid on carburetted cars when I was younger. Sprayed down the carb intake with a household cleaner spray until the engine stopped. Leave over night, crank over with plugs removed and shop towels to catch the crap , then plugs in, start up and after a couple of minutes of white smoke most if not all carbon and varnish would be gone from intake, valves, piston tops and combustion chamber. Not sure I would dare with the 928.
#22
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I use this stuff...when Im down to my last few gallons in the tank, then i add
it.
Liqui Moly Ventil Sauber
This is actaully a pretty good price...
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vent...ui-moly-lm2001
just ordered 6 cans...Our Exped could use some i know. Its been a while.
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...cument&land=DE
it.
Liqui Moly Ventil Sauber
This is actaully a pretty good price...
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vent...ui-moly-lm2001
just ordered 6 cans...Our Exped could use some i know. Its been a while.
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/p...cument&land=DE
Works well in the GTS engine where oil blow-by causes coking of the valves and pinging problems.
I also use it in my BMW.
I just ordered 6 from this site Tony shared - good price.
#24
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What about Techron additives in Chevron gas? I noticed my intake valves were pretty clean when doing my manifold service, but don't know about the exhaust ones. I am assuming Technron is still an effective additive to clean valves, no?
#26
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Carbon buildup? I recommend MCCC over everything. It works and u can get it for about 8 bucks a can at a Chrysler/Jeep dealer.
I usually go with a full can in the jeep and a full can in the Porsche (due to do one soon).
Procedure
1-Run the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.
2-Remove the Air filter cover and Air filter
3-With the engine at a fast idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out. You may need to blip blip to keep the motor running.
3-Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.
4-With the hood closed and the vehicle parked inside the garage, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration.
5-Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).
Should result in a cleaner combustion chamber and valves. This worked wonders on my Jeep and several other cars I have used it on. I prefer it over Seafoam for cleaning the CC and Valves.
I usually go with a full can in the jeep and a full can in the Porsche (due to do one soon).
Procedure
1-Run the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.
2-Remove the Air filter cover and Air filter
3-With the engine at a fast idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out. You may need to blip blip to keep the motor running.
3-Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.
4-With the hood closed and the vehicle parked inside the garage, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration.
5-Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).
Should result in a cleaner combustion chamber and valves. This worked wonders on my Jeep and several other cars I have used it on. I prefer it over Seafoam for cleaning the CC and Valves.
#28
Under the Lift
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Carbon buildup?
5-Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).
5-Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).
#30
I own a 3 HP 19 gal Tradepro compressor. After a couple of years, it lost compression and wouldn't go higher than 40 lbs. The manual suggested that I replace the piston rings. I called the manufacturer, but they didn't have any in stock. So I tried a can of engine restore.. actually just 1/2 can topping it off with regular compressor oil. I was skeptical at first but, to my surprise, it worked! It compresses the tank air beyond 100 lbs easily, gives me enough air to work my HVLP sprayers and other equipment, It's been two weeks now and it's still working like a charm with daily use.
Best part, it was cheaper than the cost of parts. I'm back in business and now, I can save up for a brand that actually stocks replacement parts. Boo to All Trade/Tradespro, Yay! to Engine Restore!...
Best part, it was cheaper than the cost of parts. I'm back in business and now, I can save up for a brand that actually stocks replacement parts. Boo to All Trade/Tradespro, Yay! to Engine Restore!...
Last edited by Dennis Nakano; 10-15-2012 at 10:04 PM. Reason: added more informational details