Any special tricks to repaint the hatch glass metal window trim and have it not peel? Any paint recommendations?

 

Sand it well. Make sure you clean it with a solvent cleaner prior to painting. Use an etching primer, then follow up with a second primer to act as a sealer. Then paint it. Rattle can is fine. Some people recommend SEM, I prefer DuPont. I did mine over four years ago and it shows no signs of peeling or otherwise failing.

 

I've had good luck with a wipe with wax/silicone remover, then either a fine Scotch-Brite or fine steel wool. I like the Acotch-brite better becuase it doesn't shed bits that later rust and stain. Another wipe to get any other wax bits and fingerprints. Then a couple thin coats of your favorite paint. On my black car, most of the "trim" paints look kinda grey. So I've been using Rust-Oleum satin black instead. Doesn't need primer.

The connecting clips can be done in place but it will show. Remove them and you need to be ultra-careful when reinstalling so you leave no marks on the new paint.

The same technique apples to the other window moldings, as well as to the door lock surrounds. Make them all new and the same color at the same time.

Oh-- mask around your target parts obviously, but also cover the rest of the car completely. I use the cheap painters plastic film stuff that comes on a roll. for the large expanses. Rattle-can exhaust goes everywhere.

 

So you guys are doing these in place? I need to do this too but thought I'd probably have to remove them (no idea how much of a PITA that is)

 

Oops...major thread resurrection. Sorry about that..

 

Jim, I may have some Rust-Oleum satin black you can try ...

 

On early 300ZXs with similar metal trim I used the self-etching primer and trim paint method recommended by JHowell above and have been happy with the results. I used SEM trim self-etching primer and trim paint. You need to buy it from an auto paint supply place. They will sell it in aerosol cans. Much more durable and professional grade quality over the stuff from typical auto parts stores.

 

Awesome. I just ordered the primer and trim paint...

 

removal is easy. the trim snaps into receptacles around the edge of the glass that are attached via screws from the inside of the hatch under the trim.

They are in three pieces with slide connectors that cover the seams. Slide the seam connectors back and then pull/ pry up on the trim and they will pop right off.

 

That sounds like a far safer way to do it! Is the door and windshield trim similar in that regard?

 

I have not pulled mine off but understand the door and window trim are not the same.

 

Can the rear deck glass be removed without removing all the clip screws on the underside? Any glass removal instructions would be appreciated.
Thank you
Thomas

 

If you mean the actual hatch/lid glass, I would,nt disturb it unless it,s broken glass you need to replace. The glass is bonded to the hatch frame and it usually breaks if you try to remove it. Removing the glass is a pretty specialised job, the outer aluminium trims have to come off, a nerve wracking job in it,s self as they are easily bent, once they are out, you need to access entry through the mastic so you can get a cheese cutter in there, and use a sawing motion right around the whole of the glass, till you meet up where you started, and if you have,nt broken the glass by now.., the glass lifts out.

 

That's comforting, I need to have mine resealed because it leaks through the glass's seal when it rains here in California (which is rarely).

 

The leak may not be the seal but the screws that go up from the inside of the hatch to hold the outside trim. The hatch seal is pretty thick stuff and you can inspect that and the screws by removing the interior hatch trim which is easy to do. I'd check the screws and their little seals. Look for traces where water may be draining and flowing down the interior hatch trim. You can fix leaks on those screws by removing the screw and putting a dab of silicone on it and reinserting screw.