Fuel Aroma
09-27-2011, 03:28 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Fuel Aroma
MY 87. Guys, I get the aroma from rear of engine when I turn it off. Had this 2 weeks ago at the rear fuel dampener vacuum line. Changed out dampener with a new one from Roger. Changed out all fuel lines as well as maintenance.
I see no leaks while running with air intake off. Car runs great. Fuel gauge show no unexpected drops in volume.
Can you give parameters for checking vacuum on dampener/regulators.
Anything else I need to consider ?
Thanks in Advance
PS I did have spillage back there and did not run the car for almost a week while waiting for parts. I would have expected the aroma to dissipate.
I see no leaks while running with air intake off. Car runs great. Fuel gauge show no unexpected drops in volume.
Can you give parameters for checking vacuum on dampener/regulators.
Anything else I need to consider ?
Thanks in Advance
PS I did have spillage back there and did not run the car for almost a week while waiting for parts. I would have expected the aroma to dissipate.
09-27-2011, 05:36 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Doesn't Nicole sell a copper one of those or steel or something? I guess you could also make one of your own with copper pipe and solder.
09-27-2011, 05:58 PM
#5
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
09-27-2011, 06:06 PM
#6
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It is part of the EVAP system that uses a charcoal canister to collect vapors from the gas tank and store them until the engine can burn them.
You have to take off the passenger side front wheel liner to get to it.
You have to take off the passenger side front wheel liner to get to it.
09-27-2011, 07:00 PM
#7
Under the Lift
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Normally failure of this Y-fitting is smelt in the passenger compartment. The item is part of the fuel vapor recovery system.
You might check the rest of this system that is inside the engine compartment, joining into the breather hose in front of the water bridge.
Also, I would very carefully re-check all fuel fittings. The rigid fittings at the back of the fuel rails can be very hard to get sealed fully. The leak may be small and only detected as wetness on your finger (no visible drips) when you run it against the underside of the fitting. Since you replaced the dampener, that fitting was disturbed and may have a burr or debris inside that is preventing a perfect seal. If the fitting is in good shape it should not need to be SUPER tight. I find people try to deal with leaks by overtightening these fittings.
I encountered one car where no matter how much I tried I could not get one of the rigid rear fittings to seal. Something was tweaked and the fitting would thread OK but was cocked just enough that it would not completely seal, failing the finger wetness test. I had to assemble it off the car to see how it was tweaked when tightened down and then bend the pipes to get better alignment so that when it was finally assembled on the car, it no longer leaked. If you find a leak at the fuel rail fitting to the dampener, you might first try to loosen the dampener from its mounting bracket and see if it pulls into better alignment when you snug the fitting. You may have to bend the bracket. It's a bit of a Chinese puzzle as once the fuel fitting is on, you can't get to the dampener bracket bolt.
You might check the rest of this system that is inside the engine compartment, joining into the breather hose in front of the water bridge.
Also, I would very carefully re-check all fuel fittings. The rigid fittings at the back of the fuel rails can be very hard to get sealed fully. The leak may be small and only detected as wetness on your finger (no visible drips) when you run it against the underside of the fitting. Since you replaced the dampener, that fitting was disturbed and may have a burr or debris inside that is preventing a perfect seal. If the fitting is in good shape it should not need to be SUPER tight. I find people try to deal with leaks by overtightening these fittings.
I encountered one car where no matter how much I tried I could not get one of the rigid rear fittings to seal. Something was tweaked and the fitting would thread OK but was cocked just enough that it would not completely seal, failing the finger wetness test. I had to assemble it off the car to see how it was tweaked when tightened down and then bend the pipes to get better alignment so that when it was finally assembled on the car, it no longer leaked. If you find a leak at the fuel rail fitting to the dampener, you might first try to loosen the dampener from its mounting bracket and see if it pulls into better alignment when you snug the fitting. You may have to bend the bracket. It's a bit of a Chinese puzzle as once the fuel fitting is on, you can't get to the dampener bracket bolt.
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09-27-2011, 07:47 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Normally failure of this Y-fitting is smelt in the passenger compartment. The item is part of the fuel vapor recovery system.
You might check the rest of this system that is inside the engine compartment, joining into the breather hose in front of the water bridge.
Also, I would very carefully re-check all fuel fittings. The rigid fittings at the back of the fuel rails can be very hard to get sealed fully. The leak may be small and only detected as wetness on your finger (no visible drips) when you run it against the underside of the fitting. Since you replaced the dampener, that fitting was disturbed and may have a burr or debris inside that is preventing a perfect seal. If the fitting is in good shape it should not need to be SUPER tight. I find people try to deal with leaks by overtightening these fittings.
I encountered one car where no matter how much I tried I could not get one of the rigid rear fittings to seal. Something was tweaked and the fitting would thread OK but was cocked just enough that it would not completely seal, failing the finger wetness test. I had to assemble it off the car to see how it was tweaked when tightened down and then bend the pipes to get better alignment so that when it was finally assembled on the car, it no longer leaked. If you find a leak at the fuel rail fitting to the dampener, you might first try to loosen the dampener from its mounting bracket and see if it pulls into better alignment when you snug the fitting. You may have to bend the bracket. It's a bit of a Chinese puzzle as once the fuel fitting is on, you can't get to the dampener bracket bolt.
You might check the rest of this system that is inside the engine compartment, joining into the breather hose in front of the water bridge.
Also, I would very carefully re-check all fuel fittings. The rigid fittings at the back of the fuel rails can be very hard to get sealed fully. The leak may be small and only detected as wetness on your finger (no visible drips) when you run it against the underside of the fitting. Since you replaced the dampener, that fitting was disturbed and may have a burr or debris inside that is preventing a perfect seal. If the fitting is in good shape it should not need to be SUPER tight. I find people try to deal with leaks by overtightening these fittings.
I encountered one car where no matter how much I tried I could not get one of the rigid rear fittings to seal. Something was tweaked and the fitting would thread OK but was cocked just enough that it would not completely seal, failing the finger wetness test. I had to assemble it off the car to see how it was tweaked when tightened down and then bend the pipes to get better alignment so that when it was finally assembled on the car, it no longer leaked. If you find a leak at the fuel rail fitting to the dampener, you might first try to loosen the dampener from its mounting bracket and see if it pulls into better alignment when you snug the fitting. You may have to bend the bracket. It's a bit of a Chinese puzzle as once the fuel fitting is on, you can't get to the dampener bracket bolt.
You were right on the money. After I changed out the aforementioned parts, I let the engine run while only eyeballing it to see if they were sealed.
When I went there just now, there was NO evidence of a drip but the finger test was positive at the bottom of Both fittings. Shame on me. Will reseat, retest, reseat...
With much thanks.
Craig
09-27-2011, 11:10 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Tony Thanks. Not yet, but now it will.
I found that first seating the dampener on the fixed end (immovable fuel rail end) allowed the final seating of that side. The other side attaching to the 'U' hose to the regulator was much easier to seat and finalize.
Probably a basic tennant to the more versed, but for the more novice it should be informative.
I found that first seating the dampener on the fixed end (immovable fuel rail end) allowed the final seating of that side. The other side attaching to the 'U' hose to the regulator was much easier to seat and finalize.
Probably a basic tennant to the more versed, but for the more novice it should be informative.
