Motor mount experience
#16
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I've also replaced 3 year old factory replacements due to them collapsing on a GTS not that long ago.
#20
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Hi,
Has anyone had problems with Volvo motor mount hight, its 10 mm taller that Ancor used to be? We tried to install them when engine was put back into car but they (new MM's) would require to drop subframe totally due a flywheel clearance issues. We put them into a wait list and used the old ones. It seems that they must squeeze a bit by engine weight if there will be any free space between fingers?
-mikko
Has anyone had problems with Volvo motor mount hight, its 10 mm taller that Ancor used to be? We tried to install them when engine was put back into car but they (new MM's) would require to drop subframe totally due a flywheel clearance issues. We put them into a wait list and used the old ones. It seems that they must squeeze a bit by engine weight if there will be any free space between fingers?
-mikko
#21
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They work fine at the height for me. I did have an issue installing the engine and had to drop the subframe, but that wasn't that big a deal. Now when I pull the engine this week, I am gonna remove the mounts from the subframe and leave on engine. Then when I put engine back in, I'll just put the retainers on and attach one bolt.
I'll report back which way works best.
I'll report back which way works best.
#22
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Mikko,
Most change the MM's by dropping the crossmember. From what you say you replaced them with the engine out of the car with the cross member in place then tried to install the engine.
I will have to think about that one and why there was an issue. Did you bolt the MM to the subframe or or to the engine with the brackets??
Roger
Most change the MM's by dropping the crossmember. From what you say you replaced them with the engine out of the car with the cross member in place then tried to install the engine.
I will have to think about that one and why there was an issue. Did you bolt the MM to the subframe or or to the engine with the brackets??
Roger
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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#23
Team Owner
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watch this link for install instructions the new MMs require a bit of work to fit correctly
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ht=motor+mount
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ht=motor+mount
#24
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I recently installed a pair of Roger's Volvo engine mounts with the engine out and then reinstalled the engine. If doing it again I would:
1. Measure the bolt centre to centre (left to right) of the original motor mounts before installing the new motor mounts (so as to keep the same 'saddle' spacing - the Volvo mounts have a smaller diameter bolt that OEM so can be mounted marginally too close or too far apart for ease of engine reinstallation)
2. To allow for some side to side wiggle room I would not tighten each engine mount to cross member bolt until I had the engine sitting nicely on the new mounts and with the four saddle to engine bolts in place.
Fitting the engine mounts to the engine first and then dropping the engine mount lower bolts through into the cross member as I installed the engine was an option I didn't even think of at the time.
With these new somewhat taller-than-flogged-OEM engine mounts to install the engine I had to lift the bell housing as high as possible and also angle the engine down at the back (trolley jack and block of wood under the front of the engine whilst suspended from engine crane) so that the top of the ring gear would clear beneath the top of the bell housing. All this of course with the two transmission mounting bolts loosenes and the transmission and bell housing pulled as far rearwards as possible to maximise what little clearance there is.
Very happy with the engine mounts - noticeably smoother to drive and the engine now rocks as it should when revved.
1. Measure the bolt centre to centre (left to right) of the original motor mounts before installing the new motor mounts (so as to keep the same 'saddle' spacing - the Volvo mounts have a smaller diameter bolt that OEM so can be mounted marginally too close or too far apart for ease of engine reinstallation)
2. To allow for some side to side wiggle room I would not tighten each engine mount to cross member bolt until I had the engine sitting nicely on the new mounts and with the four saddle to engine bolts in place.
Fitting the engine mounts to the engine first and then dropping the engine mount lower bolts through into the cross member as I installed the engine was an option I didn't even think of at the time.
With these new somewhat taller-than-flogged-OEM engine mounts to install the engine I had to lift the bell housing as high as possible and also angle the engine down at the back (trolley jack and block of wood under the front of the engine whilst suspended from engine crane) so that the top of the ring gear would clear beneath the top of the bell housing. All this of course with the two transmission mounting bolts loosenes and the transmission and bell housing pulled as far rearwards as possible to maximise what little clearance there is.
Very happy with the engine mounts - noticeably smoother to drive and the engine now rocks as it should when revved.
#26
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Installed 4 sets of Anchor mounts.
3 of those sets have collapsed in less than 3 years.
Of those that failed, 2 sets were from 2008, predating the generally recognized date of quality shift.
Installed Volvo liquid filled mounts on 5th car.
Working great.
3 of those sets have collapsed in less than 3 years.
Of those that failed, 2 sets were from 2008, predating the generally recognized date of quality shift.
Installed Volvo liquid filled mounts on 5th car.
Working great.
#27
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I installed the Volvo mounts while dropping the new/used engine in my 89 TBF car, and while it wasn't fun getting everything lined up, I did not have to drop the crossmember. I do remember raising the bellhousing as much as possible, and the tranny was slid back an inch or so before installation.
No vibrations from the engine, all seems to be good with the new mounts.
No vibrations from the engine, all seems to be good with the new mounts.
#28
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I use factory Porsche mounts. Period. Exclusively.
I caught crap, for years, about how I was wasting people's money by not using the "Anchor" mounts, but I just kept installing factory mounts. I've installed literally hundreds of them. Literally. I'd be willing to bet that I've actually installed more mounts than Roger has ever sold. Literally hundreds. When the "problem" with the "Anchor mounts" occurred, it reaffirmed my thoughts that the Porsche mounts were a great product....at the same time being really happy that I didn't have to call dozens and dozens of customers to tell them that I needed to change their defective mounts...on my dollar.
Never had a replacement factory mount go bad. Never had to make up any excuses. Never have any "vibration" issues. Never have had one single problem....
I've never seen a "broken" Porsche mount. I've never seen anything remotely dangerous. Yep, they get old and get "crushed" down....but they never actually break
Sure, I've replaced hundred of them...but on cars that are over 20 years old! Twenty years of a 500 pound vibrating rock sitting on two little rubber mounts? That's a poor product?
Now people are "experimenting" with a Volvo mount. Different engine, Different weight. Different initial height. Different final height.
Seriously people...didn't you learn anything from the "Anchor mount" saga?
I caught crap, for years, about how I was wasting people's money by not using the "Anchor" mounts, but I just kept installing factory mounts. I've installed literally hundreds of them. Literally. I'd be willing to bet that I've actually installed more mounts than Roger has ever sold. Literally hundreds. When the "problem" with the "Anchor mounts" occurred, it reaffirmed my thoughts that the Porsche mounts were a great product....at the same time being really happy that I didn't have to call dozens and dozens of customers to tell them that I needed to change their defective mounts...on my dollar.
Never had a replacement factory mount go bad. Never had to make up any excuses. Never have any "vibration" issues. Never have had one single problem....
I've never seen a "broken" Porsche mount. I've never seen anything remotely dangerous. Yep, they get old and get "crushed" down....but they never actually break
Sure, I've replaced hundred of them...but on cars that are over 20 years old! Twenty years of a 500 pound vibrating rock sitting on two little rubber mounts? That's a poor product?
Now people are "experimenting" with a Volvo mount. Different engine, Different weight. Different initial height. Different final height.
Seriously people...didn't you learn anything from the "Anchor mount" saga?
#29
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Im with you 100% that the Porsche mounts are just fine. Exemplary even.
But does that mean everyone else -has- to pay $500 for arguably a $95 part..just because? I wouldn't..I mean, unless I just started hemorrhaging money from somewhere, and the scale of the purchase wasn't a big deal. But hey, I bought a $4k car, cuz I can only afford to own a $15k car over a long period of investment...I cant just cut checks for things like that at once. I suppose many other people are in the same place.
And I also don't suggest that you're wasting anyone's money using $500 mounts. They want YOU to work on their car, and with that..comes work to your standards.
And I think the experimenting was over quite some time ago, and the "issues" are simply around discussion of managing a small amount of differences between $95, and $500.
And I don't think anyone with their head on straight, is saying the Porsche mounts are bad products either.
However, I think we can all agree, that $500 is highway robbery..and all you're doing in buying them, is funding someone else's fun with the margins on it. Even if it does come at overall security in the product provided. A motor mount just is -not- $500 worth of hardware.
And people did learn from Anchor..they're crap.
But does that mean everyone else -has- to pay $500 for arguably a $95 part..just because? I wouldn't..I mean, unless I just started hemorrhaging money from somewhere, and the scale of the purchase wasn't a big deal. But hey, I bought a $4k car, cuz I can only afford to own a $15k car over a long period of investment...I cant just cut checks for things like that at once. I suppose many other people are in the same place.
And I also don't suggest that you're wasting anyone's money using $500 mounts. They want YOU to work on their car, and with that..comes work to your standards.
And I think the experimenting was over quite some time ago, and the "issues" are simply around discussion of managing a small amount of differences between $95, and $500.
And I don't think anyone with their head on straight, is saying the Porsche mounts are bad products either.
However, I think we can all agree, that $500 is highway robbery..and all you're doing in buying them, is funding someone else's fun with the margins on it. Even if it does come at overall security in the product provided. A motor mount just is -not- $500 worth of hardware.
And people did learn from Anchor..they're crap.
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#30
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Unfortunatly not everyone is rich like you Greg, or rich enough to pay for you to work on their cars.
I wish I was in both cases beleive you me.
There has to be other answers/options to that $250 hunk of rubber and water.
I wish I was in both cases beleive you me.
There has to be other answers/options to that $250 hunk of rubber and water.