I'm getting a ride tomorrow...and will be doing so until this thing is for sure fixed. I'm not willing to take the risk.

 

I let the car sit for a couple of days and there was no leak at all. I tightened the radiator cap back on, and it seemed a like it was tighter than what it was when I first got it back to my house. This got me thinking that maybe this place didn't put the coolant cap back on properly. I also figured it would explain the massive "coincidence" of the problem occurring right after they changed my oil. I started the car and let it idle in my garage for about a half hour, revving the engine every now and then, keeping an eye on the gauge and checking for leaks. Everything seemed fine and the gauge never went above normal.

Today I drove it to and from the school multiple times and everything was fine. Tonight I was driving to get dinner when I started to hear a "clicking" noise (I thought it was my blower, because when I turned the fan off, the clicking stopped). About 10 minutes later my coolant warning light turned on (needle was just above 3/4) and I pulled over immediately. I checked and there was no coolant leaking. I waited a few minutes and decided to try to make it home (about a 2 minute drive). I stopped at an intersection and my car started steaming...I backed it up to the side and shut it off. I looked where my car had been and there was a massive puddle of coolant.

I considered putting coolant in it and trying to make it back home...but I'd rather not risk damaging anything (if it hasn't been already) so I think I'll just tow it to my mechanic and have him take a look at it tomorrow. Does this sound more like a water pump issue than a thermostat, or is either still plausible?

Thanks

 

You are probably past the point of "safe" now. I'll bet there's damage.

Check the compression and find a $500 craigslist car. Your 928 won't be going much further, if at all.

I'd never trust my 928 to any oil change joint or parts chain.

 

I'm not sure how the shop would tell that the "block was dry" unless they pulled the block plugs, which I highly doubt. There's a hose that attaches to the bottom of the coolant overflow tank. They fail because they're out of sight and out of mind. If the leak was coming from behind the wheel on the passenger side, that's the first thing I'd check. Depending on the size of the hole in the hose, it may not leak much, or at all when the car is sitting. It may only leak when the engine is warmed up and the system is under pressure. The steam would be a result of coolant getting sprayed on the exhaust manifold.

You can check all that other **** people have mentioned, or you can try to look for simple causes first. Run your hand along the hose I mentioned and see if it gets wet.

When you top off the coolant, how much are you adding?

 

Go to autozone and borrow a coolant pressure tester. Fill the car back up with water. Pressureize the cooling system with the tool and find where the leak is.

Report back after you have done this.

 

Thanks guys, I'll let you know once I get it towed back to my house. I thought I'd mention that I had a hard time getting the radiator cap off too (a Stant cap the PO put on -- http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=179), and somewhat of a hard time getting it back on. It looks like there might be some grooves on the seal; any chance a bad cap could be causing this, or do the symptoms not match? I'll be replacing it either way.

Thanks again

 

a repost from #3

Do this first, remove the aircleaner, look at it for pieces of belt, tap it onto a piece of white cardboard, if you find belt debris suspect a seizing waterpump.

Moving on, with the aircleaner base removed
inspect the right hand rear side of the cylinder head look for a failed short hose or failed heater control valve,

also its possible the bolted onto the head connector port has failed .

if yours HCV is over 5 years old replace both the short hose and the valve, also get a new coolant cap.

Inspect the coolant bottle if yours is tan or brown then replace the bottle


NOTE if you cant follow these instructions print them off then take it to your mechanic and have him follow them

 

Stan wasn't there a post to show the difference between older and newer head connectors? I think I am looking at changing mine too.

 

Yes, there is. One is pressed in, one is cast in. I remember seeing it a week or so ago but can't find it in search. I think 88 is cast. You can tell if you take off the fitting from the head, it is very evident if it is pressed in or cast in.

 

the older pressed in part will have some rust on it
VS the newer part just having white corrosion from the coolant.
I dont remember where that thread was,
but Bill Ball was the one that posted the picture, I think

 

Stant caps are a lot more difficult to install and remove.

 

No advice is always better than bad advice.

You are way wide of the mark there, buster.

Casey - why can't you follow directions?

Do this then post back with your results.

 

I had a very similar problem with my '88. It turned out to be the tank which had a hair line crack at the bottom and would only begin to dump coolant once the the engine was at full temp and pressure.

The instructions Merlin gave you five days ago would probably reveal the problem. They would, at the very least, eliminate 90% of the possibilities.

Good luck.

 

Theres a very simple tool that pressurises the entire coolant system......youll find the issue in mins if not secs. While your at it junk the coolant tank cap and get yourself a new OEM cap.

 

I checked out the air cleaner and I didn't find any signs of belt debris (although it was very dirty, so I'll be replacing that). I've also replaced the cap and earlier today a friend came over and we put in a new thermostat. I'm having some issues finding the heater control valve; it might be staring right at me and I'm just overlooking it. Any extra help with that would be appreciated...maybe if somebody could point it out in a picture.

Also, the coolant tank is brown and should definitely be replaced...how difficult is this to replace?

Thanks