Made a set of alignment pins for making it easier to install and align the crossmember for single person install and removal of the transmission doing it the classic way by the book.

I found some M10 1.50 X 125mm bolts with really long shoulders and cut off the heads.

 

Andre,
I read about your issue in another thread. It's a possibility the selector rod moved off it's detent pin.
We had a similar problem caused my a slight imact, which caused similar symptoms.
Check it out here. LINK
Also watch the YT vid, should make it pretty clear.

Since you have the tranny installed, it may be worth trying to access the detent pin and spring socket in situ. Remove it and see if you gain access to the rod, enough to move it to where it needs to be.

Sometimes there is no need to post mortem, but out of gruesome curiosty... were you able to work thru all the gears prior to install? Maybe something here to be learned by all.

 

Thanks for the data point in the thread, Jim.
Since I paid $3K to have it rebuilt, I waited to hear back from Greg.

Now since this is the third time in the process, I will be able to completely document the process.

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Fixed, installed and fantastic. will post 10 more photos if the install and removal process after doing it twice this weekend.

 

After one releases the axles from the transmission, use plastic wrap to protect the CV joints.

 

Next attack the E-brake and be careful on the removal of the cable on the driver side.

 

Remove you rear calipers and do a proper hanging. I use 14 gauge copper wire .
Next use two sheets of drywall to space fill the pad for the rotor, and then stop on the brakes to lock the drywall in place.

 

Disconnect the sway bar links and loosen the strut nuts, this will allow for easing the release of the top of the struts in the next post.

 

The clean release of the three tower nuts and the strut falls away cleanly

 

Mark with exactly 3 line marks, remove the alignment cams.
The marks must be two on one side and on on the other.
This uses the human eye's best quality of seeing differences.

 

Attach the hanging webbing to the sway bar and suspend the transmission.
Remove the transmission blots from the mounts and then draw tension on the hanging strap.

 

Support the cross member with the transmission jack and mark the sides of the wheel well and cross member with two lines about 1 inch apart, to allow you to preserve the thrust angle. After removing each of the bolts, install the 120mm M10x1.50headless bolts. The allow for guiding the member up and down with ease.

 

Shoot me for not taking tow two critical photos of sideways removal of the cross member. The trick is to lay the struts out spread eagle, and fold the sway bar links up and parallel to the bar. The member will slide out the driver's side. You will need to lift up on the driver's member to allow the pass. side to drop to clear the wiggle past the gas tank and battery box.. Once out fold the struts back up like carrier aircraft wings and lift the member set about 6 inches to make it easier to move about. I used some 4X34's about three feet long each to rest the member on the garage.

Trust me on this, if you are doing this alone it is the easiest way I have found.
This weekend I did it twice, by accident, and the second time I decided to take photos and notes.

The 3 ton jacks are from Harbor freight and have pressure treated 2X6 boards. This give the extra 1.5 inches to make clearance better. If I have to do this again I would add a second layer of the boards under the jacks and that would make the member slide in and out easier along with my belley on the creeper.

 

It takes about two hours after the car is up in the air and the pumpkin/muffler is removed and the axles released. It is about 8 hours from start ti finish from removal, install, and back on the ground to drive.RemoveRemove

 

Andres wife asked me to help her sell this G28:08 with LSD.
Anyone interested?

 

Which one is the 08?