Bill Ball

Ah, those upper front TT bolts. Yes, they can be removed depite very limited swing of the ratchet handle. I used a 5 degree, twist (rotator)-handle ratchet and deep socket. After you break the bolt free the twist-handle backs out the bolts in 30 seconds despite no handle swing room.

Bill Ball

Agree with auto trans. I found the manual trans was simple to do this way. It's tiny compared to auto plus torque converter. I used a standard floor jack in the center of the crossmember and it came down and went back up uneventfully.

Rob Edwards

Just as a datapoint, I have in the past used the HF tranny jack for putting up a 5-speed tranny/TT assembly, and it works ok, but even with 125-ish lbs on it, it seems to be at its 'limit'. I suspect an automatic tranny would be downright scary on that jack.

When Dan Hebert and I put his automatic tranny/TT back into his Turquoise car, we borrowed a HF hydraulic table from Mark Anderson:

http://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-...ble-94822.html

We put the tranny/TT on the table, rolled it under the car, jacked it up into place, then bolted the front cross-piece support in to hold the TT and chained the tranny to the sway bar in back. This table made it a piece of cake.

chrly924s

I bolted a piece of 3/4" plywood to my floor jack and tied the tranny to it with some ski rope. Then shove it up under the car to where it is under the tranny's 'home' and jack it up about 1/2 way. Then go up under car to the front of the TT and lift it up and pull the whole thing up to the bell housing. I have a large screw driver that I put thru one of the TT/bell housing holes to line it up and then put a small jack stand under the TT. I then go back to the jack and jack the tranny the rest of the way up and secure w/the chain to the sway bar. Go back up to the bell housing and check for level mating of the bell housing/TT and start bolting together. Don't forget the double bolt clamp on the drive shaft.

Andre Hedrick

Not likely this time, as I did not get a hold of Greg.

On a different note, do you have the bellows for the shifter for a G28/12?
If so can it make it to NorCal by Friday evening?

Mark Anderson

I have it in stock and can ship today. Call me with payment info.

Rob Edwards

None of my business, but shift lever bellows, or rear coupler/input shaft bellows?

wildwestsydney

When I just had my 5spd out I took the tube off the tranny in the car, I was pretty simple to have it come straight off without stressing the input to the trans. I then lowered the rear suspension enough to slip the tranny out of the cross member onto one of those motorcyclye / atv jacks. All went very well with no problems. I left the rear suspen suported by a small hydraulic jack and blocking. When I went to put the tranny back the jack supporting the cross member was in the way so I used 2 x 6 blocking to form a tunnel that the small jack sat on top of and the motorcycle lift jack drove right into. I had to cut some blocking so the trans was dead solid on the motorcycle lift jack. I did the whole without help and it was not unsafe at any point.

Sam

RET

The WSM procedure worked well for me when I recently removed my five speed transmission to replace the failed-in-the-usual-place preselector spring.

I dismantled the rear suspension and removed the cross member entirely from the car, leaving the TT in place. No rocket science or advanced prestidigitation techniques: just a lot of stuff to disconnect and unbolt.

The cross member, with the shocks, springs, suspension arms and wheel rotors, is heavy and awkward, but this transmission jack http://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-...jack-3185.html was very helpful: it was cheap, strong, rolled easily and the tilting adjustments allowed fine alignment of the cross member assembly as well as the transmission during during installation.

I used a ratcheting strap to secure the transmission to the sway bar when the cross member was out rather than a chain. It was more precise to adjust and allowed the transmission to be easily lifted from the cross member, which facilitated removal as well as installation.

There are (at least...) two things to be mindful of on installation: the routing of wire harnesses and alignment of the transmission to the input shaft.

Route the cables before putting the cross member into place, I had tied mine up out of the way, bolted the cross member into place, and then found that the large connectors on the cable ends made getting them back to where they really needed to be a real PIA.

Aligning the transmission was fairly straight forward as it was being hoisted into place with the HF transmission jack. The awkward sight angle made it difficult to judge the relative alignment of the TT with the transmission flange, so I used a pair of inside calipers to help make sure they were parallel.

Also, as added insurance against a stumble, I inserted a pair of very long bolts through the lower TT flange holes into the transmission before the drive shaft came too close to the input shaft (sorry, I don't remember the size, but metric of course, and around six inches long with short thread length and long smooth grip to slide easily...). These helped to guide things together and at least would hopefully have kept too much strain from the input shaft if something slipped.

The transmission R&R is something that I hope not to repeat in the near future. With any luck (and by that I mean good luck; I have had enough of the other kind,,,,) my home-made transmission preselector spring will not fail anytime soon.

Bob

Hilton

Here's a link to a DIY done by an aussie:

http://www.landsharkoz.com/tech/stu/conversion.htm

Done to a 1980 928S ("euro").

Mike Frye

Both times I've had my trans out it was for this spring. Do you have any pics on your solution to that spring? I may have gotten the last real Porsche selector spring 2 years ago but I've been trying to come up with a solution because the original design is not good.

RET

Mike - I don't want to look like I am trying to hijack this thread, so I will updated my original post: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ing-broke.html

fraggle

I used the HF "ATV" jack and some creative 2x4 support work. The ATV jack had great capacity for both lift and wieght, so no issues. Just a lot of STUFF to unbolt. And when you look at your ebrake cables, you'll consider replacing them, until you see the cost. heck with that. I did recover my ABS wires, though. That was bugging me every time I looked under the car!

Andre Hedrick

Sounds like everyone wants to see a repeat, and if there are any other references we can add, then it could become the "almost official" thread?
--------------------
Well we started with http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ack-39178.html

Andre Hedrick

Down to torquing things down and testing the thrust angle. I followed the WSM.
Please note the pictures are based on reassembly order, so reversing them with take it apart. This picture is the aha moment when you you realize the tear down is only40-45% of the job, but it feels good to get here.

If you look closely the top center two of the total of six bolt holes can be clearly seen.