I'm trying to do the right thing and replace the flange washers in my dual distributor but I'm having some trouble. First, the new flange washers are a different shape? Any one see a problem with this? (see pic).
Second, the new flange washers don't fit on the distributor shaft. The inner diameter of the old washers is about 15mm, where the inner diameter of the new washers is about 14.75mm. The shaft on the distributor appears to be tapered but I would rather not force the new washer on to the shaft if I'm not supposed to. The manual just notes "must always be replaced, install in correct position"
Any help would be appreciated!

 

time the gears then install the new belt then tap the new collars onto the shafts use a dab of red loctite on the collars

 

Won't that make the collars hard to get off next time? The manual notes that they must always be replaced? I'm guessing by your suggestion to use red locate that they're not supposed to spin?

 

I've got this job staring at me, too.

Sure would like some more description!

 

It's pretty easy, follow the manual to take it apart and put it back together. The only thing that threw me was the installation of the new flange washers that go on to make sure the belt tracks correctly. The flange washers are like the large flanged washer behind the balancer that keeps the Tbelt tracking correctly on the crank gear. The washers are snug going on and need to be pressed on to the tapered shafts. They go on hard enough that I choose to skip the loctite. Also per the manual, make sure the rotors are pointing towards the notches in the housing when you put the new belt on. This is not the first time I've had the distributor apart, but it is the first time I changed these washers. The book says they must always be replaced although I'm not sure why as my old washers were, well, old. Maybe I got lucky?

 

Thanks for that. I have the belt, need the new washers. Anything else need replacing inside there?

 

According to the manual you're supposed to replace the allen head screws that hold the rotors on but I just apply a light coat of blue Loctite and reuse the old ones. It's worked for me.

 

I have one NIB if anyone is interested, I paid $600, and can part with it for half that, or $300. I will never get an 84,85 euro so it is just collecting dust. on the box.

 

Interesting, I have 2 euro engines and have had that DD thing opened many times but can't remember specifically what I did/didn't do with these. Since it seems everything on those shafts spin the size difference can not come from wear. Sloppy manufacturing I guess if there is an actual opening difference.

The height of the flange on the shaft seems to be the important thing so put the old one back and mark the heights on the shaft and then try to match it with the new parts. If you can't match the height I don't see any reason why the old ones can't be used indefinitely.

You want everything happy in there so you don't snap the little belt. Maybe the vendors could post up pics of what they have in stock for these.

 

tv,
After reading what Mrmerlin wrote and then carefully looking at both the shafts and the existing and new washers I came to the conclusion that the washers are meant to be pressed on and tight to the shaft to keep them from idling while the shafts spin. My existing washers were way too loose and couldn't have been functioning as designed so i ditched them. So the dimensional problem wasn't that the new washer inner diameter was too small, it was that the existing washer diameter was too big! Regarding the shape, after looking at the new washers installed I don't think the reduction in profile will effect the performance of the belt as the track of the belt is over a very narrow range. But hey, if I ever get it up and running again, and if I have a distributor belt failure, I'll be sure to let everyone here know of my faux pas