Wire repair: here's how I do it.
09-01-2011, 08:18 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
There are many good hand crimpers. The ratchet types are the best. The “hand squeeze” crimpers are marginal and should only be used in an act of desperation or on circuits that don’t really matter!
Even the ratchet type do not provide a “gas tight” crimp that is required by even some lowly commercial standards. That requires a “multi-ton” press.
Soldering, when properly done, is the best electrical connection but can have its problems as well. Flux, if improper, can actually corrode copper wire to the point of failure.
Also, a solder joint in the wrong application can cause a stress point that could quickly fail under extreme vibration.
The best solution, is to know, what to use, when, and were.
Even the ratchet type do not provide a “gas tight” crimp that is required by even some lowly commercial standards. That requires a “multi-ton” press.
Soldering, when properly done, is the best electrical connection but can have its problems as well. Flux, if improper, can actually corrode copper wire to the point of failure.
Also, a solder joint in the wrong application can cause a stress point that could quickly fail under extreme vibration.
The best solution, is to know, what to use, when, and were.
Last edited by depami; 09-02-2011 at 02:26 AM.
09-01-2011, 08:27 PM
#32
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There are many good hand crimpers. The ratchet types are the best. The “hand squeeze” crimpers are marginal and should only be used in an act of desperation or on circuits that don’t really matter!
Even the ratchet type do not provide a “gas tight” crimp that is required by even some lowly commercial standards. That requires a “multi-ton” press.
Soldering, when properly done, is the best electrical connection but can have its problems as well. Flux, if improper, can actually corrode copper wire to the point of failure.
Also, a solder joint in the wrong application can cause a stress point that could quickly fail under extreme vibration.
The best solution is to know what to use when and were.
Even the ratchet type do not provide a “gas tight” crimp that is required by even some lowly commercial standards. That requires a “multi-ton” press.
Soldering, when properly done, is the best electrical connection but can have its problems as well. Flux, if improper, can actually corrode copper wire to the point of failure.
Also, a solder joint in the wrong application can cause a stress point that could quickly fail under extreme vibration.
The best solution is to know what to use when and were.
09-01-2011, 08:55 PM
#34
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09-01-2011, 09:29 PM
#35
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09-01-2011, 09:57 PM
#36
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09-01-2011, 10:05 PM
#37
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Now that is a serious crimper!
09-01-2011, 10:40 PM
#38
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09-01-2011, 10:43 PM
#39
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I can tell you guys this much, I have replaced, cut out, cussed at thousands of crimped connections, Scotch locks, wire nuts, and tape over the last 40 years, but maybe only two to three properly done solder connections.
For what that is worth, and there is a reason that solder is not a good idea on aircraft, more than one actually.
It is all spelled out in AC 43-13 IIRC.
The absolute bottom line for doing a non solder connection, IE a crimp, is exactly like has been show above, a very high quality crimper.
Mine is not a ratchet type, but a custom tool made in Germany, sold by Wurth, based (Built?) on a fixed vise grip frame, but the idea is the same, get good compression.
(Got one of the big ones for doing battery cables if any one needs them crimped/soldered that is close enough to come to the shop.)
Use a good quality crimp barrel, none of this NAPA or Home Depot stuff, and of the right size for the wires.
I also like the potted type of heat shrink.
I have several different gas solder irons and flames/heat shrink tools that run on Butane and a catalyst.
Plus the usual electrical ones that never gets used.
One of the best accessories I have for this is a couple of the holding devices you get from Radio Shack that has two alligator clamps and a magnifying glass on them, and a wet sponge pad.
One other thing, if you do crimp, always do a pull test on the wires as soon as you do the crimp.
I am sure I am also going to be told how wrong I am, but I started using a 2% Silver, Rosin core solder for my Electrical work, as it seems to flow better and stick better.
Good thread BTW.
PS, If you really want to make your head hurt, just research which is the best Solder for what job.
For what that is worth, and there is a reason that solder is not a good idea on aircraft, more than one actually.
It is all spelled out in AC 43-13 IIRC.
The absolute bottom line for doing a non solder connection, IE a crimp, is exactly like has been show above, a very high quality crimper.
Mine is not a ratchet type, but a custom tool made in Germany, sold by Wurth, based (Built?) on a fixed vise grip frame, but the idea is the same, get good compression.
(Got one of the big ones for doing battery cables if any one needs them crimped/soldered that is close enough to come to the shop.)
Use a good quality crimp barrel, none of this NAPA or Home Depot stuff, and of the right size for the wires.
I also like the potted type of heat shrink.
I have several different gas solder irons and flames/heat shrink tools that run on Butane and a catalyst.
Plus the usual electrical ones that never gets used.
One of the best accessories I have for this is a couple of the holding devices you get from Radio Shack that has two alligator clamps and a magnifying glass on them, and a wet sponge pad.
One other thing, if you do crimp, always do a pull test on the wires as soon as you do the crimp.
I am sure I am also going to be told how wrong I am, but I started using a 2% Silver, Rosin core solder for my Electrical work, as it seems to flow better and stick better.
Good thread BTW.
PS, If you really want to make your head hurt, just research which is the best Solder for what job.
09-01-2011, 10:53 PM
#40
Nordschleife Master
Too bad these have so few dies, 8 ton hydraulic crimp.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html
HF also has an ok quality ratcheting crimper "like" the Paladin for $12.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html
HF also has an ok quality ratcheting crimper "like" the Paladin for $12.
09-01-2011, 10:55 PM
#41
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Too bad these have so few dies, 8 ton hydraulic crimp.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html
HF also has an ok quality ratcheting crimper "like" the Paladin for $12.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html
HF also has an ok quality ratcheting crimper "like" the Paladin for $12.
09-02-2011, 12:12 AM
#42
Rennlist Member
I can tell you guys this much, I have replaced, cut out, cussed at thousands of crimped connections, Scotch locks, wire nuts, and tape over the last 40 years, but maybe only two to three properly done solder connections.
For what that is worth, and there is a reason that solder is not a good idea on aircraft, more than one actually.
It is all spelled out in AC 43-13 IIRC.
The absolute bottom line for doing a non solder connection, IE a crimp, is exactly like has been show above, a very high quality crimper.
Mine is not a ratchet type, but a custom tool made in Germany, sold by Wurth, based (Built?) on a fixed vise grip frame, but the idea is the same, get good compression.
(Got one of the big ones for doing battery cables if any one needs them crimped/soldered that is close enough to come to the shop.)
Use a good quality crimp barrel, none of this NAPA or Home Depot stuff, and of the right size for the wires.
I also like the potted type of heat shrink.
I have several different gas solder irons and flames/heat shrink tools that run on Butane and a catalyst.
Plus the usual electrical ones that never gets used.
One of the best accessories I have for this is a couple of the holding devices you get from Radio Shack that has two alligator clamps and a magnifying glass on them, and a wet sponge pad.
One other thing, if you do crimp, always do a pull test on the wires as soon as you do the crimp.
I am sure I am also going to be told how wrong I am, but I started using a 2% Silver, Rosin core solder for my Electrical work, as it seems to flow better and stick better.
Good thread BTW.
PS, If you really want to make your head hurt, just research which is the best Solder for what job.
For what that is worth, and there is a reason that solder is not a good idea on aircraft, more than one actually.
It is all spelled out in AC 43-13 IIRC.
The absolute bottom line for doing a non solder connection, IE a crimp, is exactly like has been show above, a very high quality crimper.
Mine is not a ratchet type, but a custom tool made in Germany, sold by Wurth, based (Built?) on a fixed vise grip frame, but the idea is the same, get good compression.
(Got one of the big ones for doing battery cables if any one needs them crimped/soldered that is close enough to come to the shop.)
Use a good quality crimp barrel, none of this NAPA or Home Depot stuff, and of the right size for the wires.
I also like the potted type of heat shrink.
I have several different gas solder irons and flames/heat shrink tools that run on Butane and a catalyst.
Plus the usual electrical ones that never gets used.
One of the best accessories I have for this is a couple of the holding devices you get from Radio Shack that has two alligator clamps and a magnifying glass on them, and a wet sponge pad.
One other thing, if you do crimp, always do a pull test on the wires as soon as you do the crimp.
I am sure I am also going to be told how wrong I am, but I started using a 2% Silver, Rosin core solder for my Electrical work, as it seems to flow better and stick better.
Good thread BTW.
PS, If you really want to make your head hurt, just research which is the best Solder for what job.
09-02-2011, 01:30 AM
#44
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09-02-2011, 01:41 AM
#45
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Connetions
Connections!!!
You are bored and so am I!
R'nt wi tokon bout de saim ting?
You are bored and so am I!
Last edited by depami; 09-02-2011 at 01:59 AM.