Wire repair: here's how I do it.
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Regarding electrical tape, I've never found a use for it in any repair that will be exposed to heat above room temps in a house.
There is no electrical tape in my tool box at work. If we need to wrap a bundle, we wrap with heavy-duty teflon tape first, then wrap with silicon tape.
The glue from over-heated electrical tape coats my fingers and drives me crazy.
There is no electrical tape in my tool box at work. If we need to wrap a bundle, we wrap with heavy-duty teflon tape first, then wrap with silicon tape.
The glue from over-heated electrical tape coats my fingers and drives me crazy.
#17
Three Wheelin'
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http://www.edmo.com/index.php?module...sp=wtb&cat_id=
Color codes: red=small, blue=medium, yellow=large. Crimping tools are color-coded the same way. Very simple, very effective.
Color codes: red=small, blue=medium, yellow=large. Crimping tools are color-coded the same way. Very simple, very effective.
#18
Shameful Thread Killer
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http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp...uirements.html
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp.../frameset.html
This is where I learned it. But, back then it wasn't quite as rigid as it is now. This is the best of both worlds. Solder connection has benefits in areas where there is a chance of environmental effects to play a part in the conductivity. Crimp has a benefit of being faster, cheaper and usually suitable for non-strained wire and cabling, which is almost all wife and cabling. Very little should require strain relief except mating plugs and jacks, which provide built-in relief in the harness housing.
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp.../frameset.html
This is where I learned it. But, back then it wasn't quite as rigid as it is now. This is the best of both worlds. Solder connection has benefits in areas where there is a chance of environmental effects to play a part in the conductivity. Crimp has a benefit of being faster, cheaper and usually suitable for non-strained wire and cabling, which is almost all wife and cabling. Very little should require strain relief except mating plugs and jacks, which provide built-in relief in the harness housing.
#19
Three Wheelin'
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Here's a great deal on butt splices on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raychem-D-43...item33656bd861
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=....c0.m270.l1313
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Raychem-D-43...item33656bd861
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=....c0.m270.l1313
#20
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http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp...uirements.html
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp.../frameset.html
This is where I learned it. But, back then it wasn't quite as rigid as it is now. This is the best of both worlds. Solder connection has benefits in areas where there is a chance of environmental effects to play a part in the conductivity. Crimp has a benefit of being faster, cheaper and usually suitable for non-strained wire and cabling, which is almost all wife and cabling. Very little should require strain relief except mating plugs and jacks, which provide built-in relief in the harness housing.
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp.../frameset.html
This is where I learned it. But, back then it wasn't quite as rigid as it is now. This is the best of both worlds. Solder connection has benefits in areas where there is a chance of environmental effects to play a part in the conductivity. Crimp has a benefit of being faster, cheaper and usually suitable for non-strained wire and cabling, which is almost all wife and cabling. Very little should require strain relief except mating plugs and jacks, which provide built-in relief in the harness housing.
Superb links!!
#21
Chronic Tool Dropper
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In the wayback, certified in mil-spec soldering. The quality of the wires, prep, cleanliness, materials, tools, technique all carefully defined. Not so easy for repairs on car stuff, where 'repair' is usually repair of someone else's half-fast splice attempt. The crimp-style butt connectors allow repair of existing wiring without shortening anything. The tin-plated pieces can be soldered if needed, and generally take care of the mechanical portion of the repair nicely. Good adhesive-lined shrink tubing is a real plus where there's a chance of future contamination of the connection. Several options, but for 90%+ of the DIYers, the crimp with the correct tools is the safest/easiest/most reliable solution.
My two cents.
My two cents.
#22
Race Car
Thanks for the links. I was looking for the specific crimper that you use because I like the double crimp style. Personally, these are the crimp connectors I usually use:
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...OVERED%20BUTT/
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...OVERED%20BUTT/
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#23
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Thanks for the links. I was looking for the specific crimper that you use because I like the double crimp style. Personally, these are the crimp connectors I usually use:
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...OVERED%20BUTT/
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...OVERED%20BUTT/
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
I've never seen a crimper that's wide enough to crimp both ends simultaneously.
I think that may be difficult because one hand holds the tool, the other holds the wire end in place. Doing both wires at the same time would be a pain, in my opinion.
I think this is the exact crimper I use at work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYCHEM-AD-1...#ht_500wt_1204
#25
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If you want some quality silicon tape to wrap your harnesses, here's the same stuff we use at work for a fraction of the price elsewhere. Probably stolen.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160582636756...#ht_1104wt_956
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160582636756...#ht_1104wt_956
#26
Race Car
I've never seen a crimper that's wide enough to crimp both ends simultaneously.
I think that may be difficult because one hand holds the tool, the other holds the wire end in place. Doing both wires at the same time would be a pain, in my opinion.
I think this is the exact crimper I use at work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYCHEM-AD-1...#ht_500wt_1204
I think that may be difficult because one hand holds the tool, the other holds the wire end in place. Doing both wires at the same time would be a pain, in my opinion.
I think this is the exact crimper I use at work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RAYCHEM-AD-1...#ht_500wt_1204
Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
#27
Burning Brakes
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I suspect there are situations best served by crimping, and others by soldering, but what those are will never be agreed to in any public forum. The strangest part is that the more knowledgeable the people are often the more polarized the discussion.
I crimp power, and solder signal wires, except for the ones I crimp or weld.
I crimp power, and solder signal wires, except for the ones I crimp or weld.
#28
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It has two "teeth", if you will. It really is a great tool. The leverage design allows serious clamping power with very little effort from your hand, unlike the tool in my personal tool box. After a few crimps, my jaw hurts. I need to buy one for myself, too.
#29
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If you want some quality silicon tape to wrap your harnesses, here's the same stuff we use at work for a fraction of the price elsewhere. Probably stolen.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160582636756...#ht_1104wt_956
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160582636756...#ht_1104wt_956
#30
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We get it in orange and black. We never know what we're getting, just plug in the part number, and we get what we get. Seriously, there is nothing else out there like it.
For an experiment once, I wrapped my fuel pipes in the engine bay with this stuff. I was having some serious engine bay heat issues. I'd open the hood, engine would nearly be on fire, I would touch the silicon wrapping and it would be nearly cool to the touch. I couldn't believe it.