1986 RHD Euro Good & Bad
#16
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I love the idea of having a RHD car here. I brought my 1966 LHD Sunbeam Tiger to New Zealand for a few months and really enjoyed driving it there. It's age meant I did not have to convert to RHD.
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#18
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That was my first thought as well. The car does not look to be "federalized" for the U.S. Is it still necessary since it is 25 years old?
I love the idea of having a RHD car here. I brought my 1966 LHD Sunbeam Tiger to New Zealand for a few months and really enjoyed driving it there. It's age meant I did not have to convert to RHD.
I love the idea of having a RHD car here. I brought my 1966 LHD Sunbeam Tiger to New Zealand for a few months and really enjoyed driving it there. It's age meant I did not have to convert to RHD.
There are a lot of RHD cars in the US. I have imported Land Rovers before and as long as they are 25 years old you do not have to do anything to them.
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From the NTSHA
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/impo...l#Anchor-28852
. Importing a vehicle that is at least 25 years old.
A motor vehicle that is at least 25 years old can be lawfully imported into the U.S. without regard to whether it complies with all applicable FMVSS. Such a vehicle would be entered under Box 1 on the HS-7 Declaration form to be given to Customs at the time of importation. If you wish to see that form, you may download a copy from our website at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/import. You should note that the 25 year period runs from the date of the vehicle's manufacture. If the date of manufacture is not identified on a label permanently affixed to the vehicle by its original manufacturer, to establish the age of the vehicle, you should have documentation available such as an invoice showing the date the vehicle was first sold or a registration document showing that the vehicle was registered at least 25 years ago. Absent such information, a statement from a recognized vehicle historical society identifying the age of the vehicle could be used.
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/impo...l#Anchor-28852
. Importing a vehicle that is at least 25 years old.
A motor vehicle that is at least 25 years old can be lawfully imported into the U.S. without regard to whether it complies with all applicable FMVSS. Such a vehicle would be entered under Box 1 on the HS-7 Declaration form to be given to Customs at the time of importation. If you wish to see that form, you may download a copy from our website at www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/rules/import. You should note that the 25 year period runs from the date of the vehicle's manufacture. If the date of manufacture is not identified on a label permanently affixed to the vehicle by its original manufacturer, to establish the age of the vehicle, you should have documentation available such as an invoice showing the date the vehicle was first sold or a registration document showing that the vehicle was registered at least 25 years ago. Absent such information, a statement from a recognized vehicle historical society identifying the age of the vehicle could be used.
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That's right there is that 25 year exemption....I forgot about that because back in the day it did not apply to any 928s, then only 78-79 so no reason to import. You did good !
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I know the RHD 928's have the S4 brakes and suspension. What I am looking for is a caliper rebuild kit and not sure which one it would be. Would a kit for an 87 S4 work?
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Boiling Brake Fluid
What are some of the causes of boiling brake fluid? In this thread a sticking caliper or kinked line has been suggested. I have read about boiling points in brake fluid, I think it simply can be that the fluid needs changed. I have read each time the fluid boils it reduces the boiling point up to 1/3. What do think? Mechanical problem or simply really old fluid?
#24
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The process I use when another car comes home is to pull, inspect and rebuild all four calipers (just rubber seals, finding the kit for the early S4 calipers might be a trick), new brakelines, clean the ABS sensors, check/replace front wheel bearings and seals, new rotors & pads, inspect/adjust E brake shoes.
Then, if still issues, I get into the master and booster.
If I don't go through the process, driveablility seems to suffer.
If it were a 3 year old Suburban, I'd look for the root cause of any symptom and not throw parts at it.
Because its a 25 year-old car, I've been happier using this different process.
Pays dividends in reliability and stress.
Then, if still issues, I get into the master and booster.
If I don't go through the process, driveablility seems to suffer.
If it were a 3 year old Suburban, I'd look for the root cause of any symptom and not throw parts at it.
Because its a 25 year-old car, I've been happier using this different process.
Pays dividends in reliability and stress.
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The most common cause is the booster ..........the internal switch triggers the booster and it applies the brakes which soon overheats the fluid as you drive along.
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Sometimes you can adjust the brake pedal for freeplay, you can shim the master cylinder away from the booster......then you end up replacing the booster You test by unhooking the vacume hose so there is no boost and if the brakes do not lock it is not calipers or kinks but booster related.
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So the consensus is that it cannot just be really bad fluid with a really low boiling point? I will unhook the vac. line and check the booster tonight. If the brakes were being applied by the booster would I not notice it while coasting?
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Didn't get a chance to check the booster last night. Will give it a shot tonight, I have been spending to much time with my cars and to little with the family. Also noticed the wheels have locks and I have no keys, the PO said he would try and find them but you know how that can go. I did read some posts and it appears that they are not all the hard to pick.