Lug nut stud broken
08-25-2011, 10:12 AM
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Lug nut stud broken
Hello all,
84 928S4 Eauro A/T.
Well i removed my left rear tire last night inspecting. One of my lug nut Studs has been sheared off for a long time. I have the new stud and lug nut that i want to install. I searched on the site and found many articles of removing the rotors, but nothing all the way to replacing the studs. In know to remove the rotors just by removing the 2 phillips head screws, and possibly using 2 x 8 mm bolts to remove the rotor. How much do i have to remove to then replace a stud ? Do i have to remove the center i think is a 31 mm nut ? Anything i need ot watch out for ?
84 928S4 Eauro A/T.
Well i removed my left rear tire last night inspecting. One of my lug nut Studs has been sheared off for a long time. I have the new stud and lug nut that i want to install. I searched on the site and found many articles of removing the rotors, but nothing all the way to replacing the studs. In know to remove the rotors just by removing the 2 phillips head screws, and possibly using 2 x 8 mm bolts to remove the rotor. How much do i have to remove to then replace a stud ? Do i have to remove the center i think is a 31 mm nut ? Anything i need ot watch out for ?
08-25-2011, 10:17 AM
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Search Dr. Bob's posts where he uses the Sir Tools unit for removing rear wheel bearings.
I think there was ancilliary discussion in those threads, or others about rear wheel bearings, that discussed stud change.
I think that level of disassembly is required to swap studs for access and ability to apply force ( they are generally pressed in/out with a press ).
I think there was ancilliary discussion in those threads, or others about rear wheel bearings, that discussed stud change.
I think that level of disassembly is required to swap studs for access and ability to apply force ( they are generally pressed in/out with a press ).
08-25-2011, 10:49 AM
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It seems at this point for you that this ought to be a simple task. However, Landseer is correct in that it is going to take you through the procedurte for changing the rear wheel bearing to get it done. In fact, I think it is going to require that you change the rear wheel bearing because when you press the rear hub out of the bearing carrier, part of the bearing comes out with it, and I have some indication that this destroys the bearing.
The rear wheel bearing is very beefy and consists of two rows of *****, each row having their own seperate inner race. It is one of these that comes out of the bearing and then has to be pressed off of the hub.
I suggest that you buy a new rear wheel bearing before you start. You can also obtain some various tooling from Harbor Freight that will help you with the pressing in and out. You will also need a press; or some of the information on here indicates that with a lot of heat you may be able to do this without the press.
Its a big job, but one you can do with study and persistence.
Good luck.
Jerry Feather
The rear wheel bearing is very beefy and consists of two rows of *****, each row having their own seperate inner race. It is one of these that comes out of the bearing and then has to be pressed off of the hub.
I suggest that you buy a new rear wheel bearing before you start. You can also obtain some various tooling from Harbor Freight that will help you with the pressing in and out. You will also need a press; or some of the information on here indicates that with a lot of heat you may be able to do this without the press.
Its a big job, but one you can do with study and persistence.
Good luck.
Jerry Feather
08-25-2011, 11:11 AM
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Now you know why no one replaced that stud before. While not recommended it is possible to use a large hammer to knock out the stud and nail one back in. Just do not try it on the car as it is very hard on the wheel bearings.
It is not required that you change the rear wheel bearing it will go back together when you install the hub and being a dual angular contact bearing it resets when you torque the big nut.....
It is not required that you change the rear wheel bearing it will go back together when you install the hub and being a dual angular contact bearing it resets when you torque the big nut.....
08-25-2011, 12:00 PM
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In my limited experience, the outer bearing seal gets distorted when the flange is pulled. If the bearing is past 50k you'll want a new one anyway WYAIT. Replacing the stud deserves a little time with a press, and a couple dedicated press tools to avoid damage to the drive hub flange. Any decent auto machine shop can do this for you. Side note that most experts say that you should replace no more than two studs on any axle, but I've never understood why. Side note: you may find that a good used drive hub is cheaper and easier than wrestling with a new stud and finding a good shop to change it.
There's a good write-up on using the Sir Tools press to pull and replace the bearing on the car. If you are near the Los Angeles area, I have the tool available. There are other tools with listers in other areas. Doing the extraction on the car saves redoing alignment and avoids risk of damage during r&r.
There's a good write-up on using the Sir Tools press to pull and replace the bearing on the car. If you are near the Los Angeles area, I have the tool available. There are other tools with listers in other areas. Doing the extraction on the car saves redoing alignment and avoids risk of damage during r&r.
Last edited by dr bob; 08-26-2011 at 06:38 PM.
08-25-2011, 12:12 PM
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In my limited experience, the outer bearing seal gets distorted when the flange is pulled. If the bearing is past 50k you'll want a new one anyway WYAIT. Replacing the stud deserves a little time with a press, and a couple dedicated press tools to avoid damage to the drive hub flange. Any decent auto machine shop can do this for you. Side note that most experts say that you should replace nommore than two studs on any axle, but I've never understood why. Side note: you may find that a good used drive hub is cheaper and easier than wrestling with a new stud and finding a good shop to change it.
There's a good write-up on using the Sir Tools press to pull and replace the bearing on the car. If you are near the Los Angeles area, I have the tool available. There are other tools with listers in other areas. Doing the extraction on the car saves redoing alignment and avoids risk of damage during r&r.
There's a good write-up on using the Sir Tools press to pull and replace the bearing on the car. If you are near the Los Angeles area, I have the tool available. There are other tools with listers in other areas. Doing the extraction on the car saves redoing alignment and avoids risk of damage during r&r.
I am am with you on that, not a chance I would reinstall a used wheel bearing.
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08-25-2011, 01:53 PM
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thanks guys,
No wonder why the PO never put a new stud on. I live in Youngstown ohio, so most likely no one near me with the tools. I myself work at a company with a machine shop, so no problem pressing it out. But it seems i might leave this till later. Right now im trying just to work out all the gremlins and get the car road worthy again. I need to change the rear axle accordian boots as they are cracked. maybe this winteri will tackle all of it at one time, becasue i also have ot change the boots, and shocks.
No wonder why the PO never put a new stud on. I live in Youngstown ohio, so most likely no one near me with the tools. I myself work at a company with a machine shop, so no problem pressing it out. But it seems i might leave this till later. Right now im trying just to work out all the gremlins and get the car road worthy again. I need to change the rear axle accordian boots as they are cracked. maybe this winteri will tackle all of it at one time, becasue i also have ot change the boots, and shocks.
