Fuel Sending Unit
Easy, on a 1-10 scale, 1.5.
Whats the issue first?
Remove the right rear carpet (hatch floor). Remove the round black plastic cover. Pull the electrical connector upwards off the pins. Undo the clip holding the return line hose on to the unit, and wriggle hose off, watching for spillage - no pressure, so shouldnt be much. The unit is held in by a large (4"+?) plastic sort of nut - if you have channel locks that go this big - easy. If not, get two LONG screwdrivers (so you can get the angle between them small), start with one with handle to LEFT of the nut, blade angled to RIGHT, with tip against one of the teeth on the outside of the nut; get the other driver, handle to RIGHT, blade angled left and to REAR of other driver, against other driver blade, engage its tip in a nut tooth on opposite side from the first driver- push the right hand handle, pull the left, and you are effectively turning the nut. If its really difficult, warm with a rag soaked in hot water may help. Once the nut is off the sender unit will come out - some have reported it needs considerable wriggling , as the bottom seems to get caught on something in the tank - a fuel weir of some sort. If you need to go further, consult pages built by Snakeskin here....
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k BTDT
Whats the issue first?
Remove the right rear carpet (hatch floor). Remove the round black plastic cover. Pull the electrical connector upwards off the pins. Undo the clip holding the return line hose on to the unit, and wriggle hose off, watching for spillage - no pressure, so shouldnt be much. The unit is held in by a large (4"+?) plastic sort of nut - if you have channel locks that go this big - easy. If not, get two LONG screwdrivers (so you can get the angle between them small), start with one with handle to LEFT of the nut, blade angled to RIGHT, with tip against one of the teeth on the outside of the nut; get the other driver, handle to RIGHT, blade angled left and to REAR of other driver, against other driver blade, engage its tip in a nut tooth on opposite side from the first driver- push the right hand handle, pull the left, and you are effectively turning the nut. If its really difficult, warm with a rag soaked in hot water may help. Once the nut is off the sender unit will come out - some have reported it needs considerable wriggling , as the bottom seems to get caught on something in the tank - a fuel weir of some sort. If you need to go further, consult pages built by Snakeskin here....
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k BTDT
clean the 3 connectors to the sending unit. mine was never opened before when i did and i found it full of sand in there due to it being desert driven by PO (pic below) . if its intermitent its a good chance its just corrosion on the connectors. the connector harness comes off and has a cap that comes off the side w/ screwdriver and so you can pull out/clean/replace the connectors . just remember the wire order! Best of luck.
Jonathan.
Jonathan.
I replaced mine, rather than try to clean or repair it. It took me all of 15 minutes to do. I used Dwayne's write up with photos....
Here is a link to his procedure:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nt-w-pics.html
Works like a champ now.
Joe
Here is a link to his procedure:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...nt-w-pics.html
Works like a champ now.
Joe
If it works sometimes, try cleaning the external contacts first. If that fails, pull the unit out and clean the wires CAREFULLY per Snakeskin's process. Standing for long periods can leave deposits from the fuel on the wires and break circuit.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.


