Dave,

Try running the pump backward (reverse polarity). I remember when my old FP died, it did the same thing. You could hear it trying to go, but nothing. A few time of "back and forth" of reversing the polarity on the current and she broke free. John Anderson has been using that pump since without issue.

 

Dam... pump, filter and conection tube went out with the trash on Tuesday
I was soo pissed that this failed after my efforts w/ the wheels and then took so long to remove on Sunday I tossed it all, then I left early Monday.
Oh well, next

 

Got the used FP installed as the new FP to Filter connection pipe showed up in the mail Roger !
Wow what a diff ROUND tires make
The only thing I notice now is the TT vibration and noise but she moves out real nice with peddle to the floor.

Took her through Brush less auto wash, rear hatch seal leaking bad, (another layer Have a used one I picked up here on Rennlist, need to do a search to see it can be installed w/o removing the rear hatch.

Will also try the Blinker Tune today once I make up something to hold the allen.

Dave

 

Dave, you're welcome to use the Sharktuner whenever you want.

 

Thanks Erick, maybe can borrow when you get the eng hoist and stand, AO is going to uses Marks.
When did you want to get them?

 

Took a ride on Saturday over to Roberts Budd's Leather Shop to get some ideas on the Dash, Pod and Wheel for the Onion. He just happened to have a full carpet set in Chocolate brown that was ordered buy customer then changed his mind, so he made me a deal I could not refuse

Anyway he also pointed out these Stock Seats that are in excellent shape he has for sale, 1200. takes em.

Dave

 

Mmm pascha..

 

Now that's an interesting start to an interior project. I like it!

 

The latest update on how she is running
Starting and idling great after changing out the idle stabilizer, put about 150 miles on her, then car was sitting outside the garage idling and I heard the idle go up over 1,500, could not get it to go back down by blipping the throttle (it would drop but go right back to 2500 RPM.

Put her back in garage and next day she started right up and idled great ~ 750 RMP, so I put in a new Temp II (had one on hand), noticed after that that the cold idle was better w/ new Temp II.

Put about another 50 miles (stop and starts, running around shopping and such) no issues. Went to get some Pizza, started the car (eng warm) right back to 2500 RMP

Sat over night same thing, Idles great stop and start no issue, then for no rhyme or reason, just starts the high idle again. The engine must be cold before it goes back to normal, warm won't do it.

So two idle stabilizers, same exact thing (both are used). New Temp II.
Could this be the computers, if so which, EZF ?

PS: also what is the most common failure of the Idle stabilizer, won't hold idle, unstable idle, or high idle (like this one) ?

Thanks!

Dave

 

Won't hold idle. High idles reads to me like a vac. leak... just off the cuff.

 

Have you set the Idle / WOT switch ?

Should be able to hear it click with just barely incrementing throttle.

 

Idle at 2500 sounds like intake leak, as Jim says..... check engine vacuum at front fuel damper, hot and cold. Should be about 21"Hg.

 

I'd say vacuum leak yes too however, how do you explain the fact that it runs perfect and for sometimes days. Then out of the blue (when either running or from an only warm start up) the idle goes to 2500 ? Just like someone hit a switch.

Yes the WOT switch was set and tested good, would that make the idle go to 2500 if it was open and using the cruse map ?

I just tried disconnecting the battery for about a minute going down the computer path, same thing no change however the eng is not totally warmed up so the idle is at about 1500.
I'm sure if/when hot it would go to 2500.

I do not believe / think this is a vacuum leak and all the dampeners and regulator were vacuum tested and held good during the eng refresh.

Thanks all for the suggestions,

Dave

PS: Here is a pic of the eng, we all like pic's right

 

OK the suggestions got me thinking, what if there is a bad connection on one of the three wires to the Idle stabilizer ?
The Heat soak of the Wiring harness would account for the need to be a "cold" start to return to normal, right? I'm getting an Open when hot.
Might be reasonable to ohm out the connection "cold" and then with the hi-idle condition.

Any ideas what I should expect to see at the LH connector to the Idle Stabilizer?

Thank you all!

Dave

 

I'm thinking stuck Idle Stablizer or a bad ground on the water bridge where the Temp II is. The next time this happens, check for resistance/continuity between the body of the Temp II and a good ground. If that checks fine, I would investigate the ISV.

I think you could hook the NK1 STer up to it and read the ISV values. Let me know if you want it. I'm sure Eric wouldn't mind. I won't be needing it for a few months.