I am going to be re-assembling my engine this week and installing. I have a few questions on best practices.

1) Do I install the bell housing on the engine and then install, mating to the torque tube or do I install the bell housing first and mate the engine to it? If I do the later, how do I ensure the correct torque on the top bolts on the bell housing/engine that I cannot reach with a torque wrench?

2) Related to the first question, do I install the flywheel while on the hoist or wait til I get the engine installed and then mate it up and torque then attach the super clamp/flexplate assembly to it?

3) How the heck are you supposed to feed the wiring harness through as you install the engine, crawl under and feed it while the engine is suspended above your head?

4) If I install the bell housing on the engine, can I put the engine/bell housing combination on the engine stand or is this too much torque on a small area and risk fracturing the bell housing where the torque tube bolts up?

Anyone who has done an engine removal/installation, please chime in. I have done GM engines in cars from the 70's I had lots of room for tools so I could do things out of order and work around it.

At least this isn't like my 2003 Duramax where the best way is to raise the cab on a two post lift to get it out of your way. Then again, that might make things super easy, lift the 928 out of the way like the factory mating process.

 

I install with the bell housing on the torque tube. I doubt you could drop the motor in with the bell housing in place. I usually have to pull the radiator to get it far enough forward, even without the bell housing. I just torque the nuts that mate it to the engine (on the top)with an end wrench as best I can. Never had an issue. I don't think you can possibly go too tight and I have never had one loosen up. You can torque the bottom ones carefully, if you want. I would install the fly wheel with the motor on the ground. I have never tried installing one with the motor in place, and I have tried removing one and gave up. You are going to be torquing it down pretty tight, and it really helps to have full access.

 

Bellhousing to front of TT first, then undo tranny-to-crossmember bolts, pry tranny/fTT back an inch or so to make more room for engine drop. Dunno whether that necessitates undoing the tranny shift cable or not.

I think you could do the flywheel either way, never done an automatic. Torquing it properly is probably easier on the stand, I would think, and probably safer for the CPS to preinstall the flywheel. Put the superclamp over the end of the TT shaft now......

Wiring harness starts to get fed in while the engine is dangling above the compartment. Biggest connectors (LH and EZK) first, then incrementally smaller connectors. 100x easier if you have a small second person in the footwell directing/guiding/pulling connectors through.

 

the engine can be installed with the bell housing on the TT, and the transmission not moved back. But its a royal PITA!!!

Just undo the 3 pairs of bolts that hold the flex plate to the flywheel. Turn the engine so that it is at bottom dead center and you are good to go.

 

Thanks guys. I was thinking the bell housing on the TT was the way to go. So, I completely assemble the engine on the stand and then once I get the whole thing bolted together I torque the crank bolt and put the belts on? This way I can use the flywheel lock and hold the engine still? How do I hold the engine still at 45 deg when I do the timing belt etc while on the stand?