Is the CIS shoe supposed to be hard mounted to the block?
#1
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On my motor (4.5L CIS going on the 4.7L track car motor temporarily), the front mounts were not attached to their bases which are screwed into the block. The rubber disc is adhered to the top half of the stud, but not the bottom half, so under WOT, the front of the shoe would actually lift off the block. Was it designed to have this movement? The rear studs have the rubber mounts which are adhered to the studs going into the block, so they are anchored. Should the fronts be the same?
#2
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based on your description I'm not 100% exactly sure where you are referring to, however, in my experience with CIS i don't recall any components that 'moved' or had float other than the air flow plate. Everything else is hard mounted with hard lines. my .02...
#4
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Here's the PET diagram ... see circled #1. Replace all four even if the other two seem intact ...P/N 928 110 191 00. They go hard and shear off, and about all that's left holding the assembly on is all the hoses and the spider from above.
WYAIT give the whole assembly a good clean, replace the gasket (7), the O-ring (10), the connector (19), and any hoses that have gone hard or are split/crumbly. The inside of the air transfer duct (8) will have lots of oil residue.
WYAIT give the whole assembly a good clean, replace the gasket (7), the O-ring (10), the connector (19), and any hoses that have gone hard or are split/crumbly. The inside of the air transfer duct (8) will have lots of oil residue.
#5
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Also there is a seal where the air cleaner fits over the air plate, not shown in the diagram. If your nut holding the air cleaner ducting to the cis body doesnt feel like it tightening properly, the rubber seal is probably flattened and hardened, and will/can produce air leaks - above the plate so not mixture affecting, but will allow dirt in.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#6
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Thanks for the input everyone.
I'm not going to have the CIS system in for too long, probably just long enough to drive out to our next track day and back (about 15 hours drive time) so probably won't refurbish it since it seemed fine when I removed it. I'm going to be installing an MSII system soon, and will be ditching the CIS at that point. Would it be a viable option to use a standard studs with just a rubber washer? I'm presuming the rubber mounts were to further isolate the fuel distributor and fuel lines from engine vibration, and it would seem that rubber washers would have the same affect. Not tryng to cheap out, but would like to get this motor back in and don't want to have to wait additional time for more parts. I do have standard studs that could anchor the shoe to the block.
I'm not going to have the CIS system in for too long, probably just long enough to drive out to our next track day and back (about 15 hours drive time) so probably won't refurbish it since it seemed fine when I removed it. I'm going to be installing an MSII system soon, and will be ditching the CIS at that point. Would it be a viable option to use a standard studs with just a rubber washer? I'm presuming the rubber mounts were to further isolate the fuel distributor and fuel lines from engine vibration, and it would seem that rubber washers would have the same affect. Not tryng to cheap out, but would like to get this motor back in and don't want to have to wait additional time for more parts. I do have standard studs that could anchor the shoe to the block.
#7
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OK ... rather than put standard studs in I'd suggest you just repair the vibration mounts that you have. The ones that have let go will likely have left the stud with a flat top in the block ... remove them. Then remove the part still mounted to the CIS assembly and remove the old rubber. Get some rubber of appropriate thickness to replicate the original and glue between the two stud flanges. If you sand and clean both surfaces with solvent you should be able to get a good bond with superglue (cynoacrylate). I've used that with success, but maybe someone else has a better rubber/steel glue suggestion.
As the whole assembly is also held in place by the connector to the spider above it should be reasonably stable ... and hopefully last long enough.
Plain studs might be fine ... but resonance might also cause an issue with the air flow barn door and fuel distributor, so I wouldn't risk it. Even with washers I think it'll be difficult to avoid metal to metal connection using plain studs.
With the whole assembly loose as it is now there's a chance that you're not getting WOT.
It's unlikely ... but as these are just standard vibration mounts you may find something that will fit at a specialist engineering supplier .. worth a try if there's somewhere nearby.
As the whole assembly is also held in place by the connector to the spider above it should be reasonably stable ... and hopefully last long enough.
Plain studs might be fine ... but resonance might also cause an issue with the air flow barn door and fuel distributor, so I wouldn't risk it. Even with washers I think it'll be difficult to avoid metal to metal connection using plain studs.
With the whole assembly loose as it is now there's a chance that you're not getting WOT.
It's unlikely ... but as these are just standard vibration mounts you may find something that will fit at a specialist engineering supplier .. worth a try if there's somewhere nearby.