tmpusfugit

I was able to reach into the connector with a fine tip right angle pick and "reform" the contact. They are quite easy to bend.....or they would not have bent with a test probe inserted into them.

I am still at a loss as to if if was me or the PO that did it to mine. I always try to use care while working on things like this, but.... I guess I will never know which buffoon messed it up, me or PO. I felt really foolish after looking for the problem for all the time I spent....but it is done and working fine for 10+ months now...

blown 87

I have to say, that is about the funniest thing I have read all week.

jpitman2

Jim,
Now that I think back a bit, I have a feeling that the first time I connected the dash and powered it, the gas gauge didnt peg, but the next time it did, so I will make a tool of some sort and try bending the contacts.
Fingers crossed!
thanks
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

jpitman2

Another odd thing I found - 2 white wires in a black plastic tube under there - connected together, looks like double male spade in a plastic cover. Any idea what these are about ?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.

jpitman2

Jim, You are the Man! Got a sharp hobby knife, lifted all the connectors, all back to normal, so thanks much.
All I have to do now is get some LEDs that are bright enough - the cheap ones I have wont do the job. Should be easy from here on I hope.
thanks
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

tmpusfugit

JP, glad the easy solution worked for you too! Repeating myself, but I wasted litterally days fighting the same issue......and I also have the same problem of insufficent backlights in the POD. I have not yet tried LED's.....

And mr merlin called the solution to the problem in post #2.......bent connector pins...

jpitman2

Yes, I should have sat back and said 'try the simple solution first', rather than try for complicated issues. I have tried single LEDs, about the same size as the original bulb, but they dont produce enough light. Others here specify multi-led assemblies, ie several (3-4-5) led element in one unit, so I will be out finding some today. Hope to have it all back together over the weekend.
thanks
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

Tails

John,
I have been following you thread, and with Stan's, Jim's and Ed's advice and I think you may have given my a lead on my problem. I have been chasing an intermittant fault with my digital dash on my MY90 for around 10 years.

The problem is with the odo reset switch and my stop watch function. I have checked everything including cleaning the connector pins on the 4 plugs as shown on Ed's photo of his digital dash, checked for correct earths, disassembled switch and cleaned contact, checked wiring for continuntity and shorts, but fault still exists. On the Frenzy to King Lake last Sunday week back my stop watch function started to work again on and off and now it has stopped again. The odo I and odo II function work in the background, but when cycled into the screen they reset by themselves, so when driving I cycle the stop watch function up into the screen.

The only thing that I have not checked is the reset connectors in plug 2 to see whether they are "bent" as described. I believe that the reset function, when the readout is on the screen, is when the reset switch is pressed it opens the circuit causing the reset to zero and it also activates the stop and start function of the stop watch when it is in the screen.

I will have to get myself a set of "picks" and pull the pod and check the No 2 plug connectors out for the appropriate pins.

Thanks for the inputs guys.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

jpitman2

Tails,
If the connector blades in yours are the same, they are really very soft, with minimal spring to them, so If you have had the dash apart before, they are a good place to start looking at for failed/intermittent connections.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k

Ed Scherer

I just took a quick look at the diagrams, and it appears that the ZERO switch is a normally open switch, with one side grounded. So... it seems to me that what you're looking at is more likely to be a short from the BR/WT wire (from the ZERO switch to connector #2 terminal #2) to ground. Is it pinched against metal somewhere, maybe?

Note that the BR/WT wire also passes through terminal 30 (which I assume is on one of the ends) on the 30-pin connector T5; perhaps something is amiss there?

Also, as easy as it is to pop those switches out, it might be worth swapping yours with a known working one. I've got one dodgy pod switch (intermittent connection on one of the paths on the headlight switch that causes the backlighting not to work reliably with the switch in the parking light position) that — also after disassembly, cleaning, etc. — still doesn't work reliably. Luckily in my case, it really doesn't matter much since that's not a very significant fault.





Those stinkers are great little impressionists. The same one in my avatar, but a few minutes later, doing its "Sean Penn" impression:




They do flash mobs, too.

Tails

Ed,

I should have looked at my circuit diagrams or included IIRC, as I guessed the circuitry without checking my drawings. I won't elaborate the number of circuits I have checked out for continunity, shorts and earths cleaned etc. and I been into T5 as well.

I know the reset switch is working as I have checked it with a DVM and I have also change the Intensive Washer Switch over with the reset switch and I still have the same problem (the switchs are identical). I am also planning to get a new reset switch from 928 Specalist and awaiting for Dave to answer my email.

I have done a fault tree analysis on all the circuit and I have drawn up a trouble shooting plan of attack, however, I will still check the plug socket fingers for bends and good connection, especially number 2 pin on plug 2.

My biggest enemy is time to do the job.

I will advise if and when I'm successful.

Thanks for the heads up Ed.

Tails 1990 928S4 Auto

jpitman2

Well, its all back together, and working correctly. A couple of observations - I would be much happier if it was more obvioius when the turn indicator assembly was fully home, and I think the screw that locates it against turning is a bit flaky, afterthought-ish.
Finally took it out for a run - dont know if I have done anything special, but it went very sweetly, smoothly indeed! Seemed quieter than before, even with sunroof open, response just seemed better than ever. Maybe the old ignition switch was not supplying current as well as the new one...
Anyway, very happy camper now!
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k.