Rob Edwards

Colin- not sure what you mean- making some shims out of aluminum L-channel works fine during single-disc clutch removal to ease the spring pressure so the PP bolts can be undone.

17prospective buyer

That's exactly the same material i used, aluminum flashing.

docmirror

I didn't use shims and my clutch came out just fine. I did however drop it on my face. No loss. As I recall, the intermediate shaft makes a useful pilot tool for putting it back in. I think the bolts on the PP are Allen? I don't remember using a tri-square, but it's possible I guess.

AO

The tri-square is only for the flywheel. Everything else is "regular" stuff.

dprantl

On my GT I just could not make enough room to get the single-disc clutch out without shims. I never had a problem like that with any dual-disc clutch...

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Vilhuer

Different style shims for single disk clutch as Rob's pic show. Its all in WSM.

Rob Edwards

fraggle

I just used some cut up washers for my shims on my '87.

Rob Edwards

Anything that's roughly 2 mm thick and small enough to still allow rotation of the pressure plate in the bellhousing will be fine.

BobS!

thanks for all the post. I did make and use shims. The whole processes went well enough but the assembly would not drop out initially. I had some difficultly removing the intermediate shaft from the pilot bearing. I did not know how hard to try for fear of breaking another expensive part. Turns out I need to try just a little harder and it came right out.

One note, I tied a thin rope from the aft end of the i-shaft up through the opening in the top of the bell housing tied it off to the crossbar. I left the line slack with an one or two of slack. When the clutch assembly came free it did not drop much and I could use the rope to control is short decent. While I had a piece of plywood ready I did not need to use it.

fraggle

Good idea with the rope.

stealth

Will the clutch drop with the clamping sleeve only as far back as shown in this pic? I can't seem to get it further back. This is a 90 GT with a GTS clutch.

The guide tube somehow exploded its attachment to the bellhousing (root cause TBD); one screw remained in the guide tube and the other was free from the guide tube and proceeded to mutually grind and be ground by the central shaft and clamping sleeve, when it was forward. Once I get the clutch out, may be able to tell what happened, I'm guessing that one guide tube screw worked loose and this allowed lateral and/or rotational forces on the screws & mounting point until it finally let loose.

This is the first clutch work I'm attempting myself, appreciate the insights from the board, especially when I'm trying to drop 50lbs onto something other than my head.

dprantl

No, the clutch will not drop like that. You need to completely remove BOTH of the clamping sleeve bolts, then push the sleeve back until it completely clears the short shaft.

The guide tube bolts almost certainly became loose due to vibrations. These could be caused by an old release bearing assembly or migrating TT bearings.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

stealth

That's what I thought. The bolts are out of the clamping sleeve but I'll try to pry open the aft side of the sleeve further.

docmirror

Don't forget to move the PP around where one of the small detents is aligned with the bottom of the clutch fork. Then pry the top of the clutch fork off the pivot ball. Also, you can stick a screwdriver in the pinch area of the clamp sleeve to open it a bit more and then slide it further back.