Fuel pump and Filter Question.
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello all,
My 84 Euro Auto, has sat in the Garge for about the last 1 1/2 years with a battery drain problem. Charged the battery and tried to start it. I thought i was not getting any spark, But last night i was getting small hiccups, so i think its now a fuel problem.
I use to be able to hear the fuel pump when i turned the key on but not any longer. I am hoping to get some detailed answers to my questions.
I have had a very little bit of gas in it this entire time, so i plan to drain it at the fuel pump and add fresh gas. In know to try jumping pins 30 and 87 in the relay, to see if its electrical. On my year, can i just use the horn relay in place of the fuel pump relay to try ? I also want to try 12 volts right at the fuel pump. How do i do this ? Just put 12 volts to the wires at the fuel pump, then the negative to the frame ?
I also think it might be just the pump gummed up, How do i actually clean the pump to get the gum out ?? ( Details on this would be helpful )
The filter is only about 1 1/2 years old as well, but it may have gum in it as well. Could i also just take this out and soak it in something ?
Thanks guys.
My 84 Euro Auto, has sat in the Garge for about the last 1 1/2 years with a battery drain problem. Charged the battery and tried to start it. I thought i was not getting any spark, But last night i was getting small hiccups, so i think its now a fuel problem.
I use to be able to hear the fuel pump when i turned the key on but not any longer. I am hoping to get some detailed answers to my questions.
I have had a very little bit of gas in it this entire time, so i plan to drain it at the fuel pump and add fresh gas. In know to try jumping pins 30 and 87 in the relay, to see if its electrical. On my year, can i just use the horn relay in place of the fuel pump relay to try ? I also want to try 12 volts right at the fuel pump. How do i do this ? Just put 12 volts to the wires at the fuel pump, then the negative to the frame ?
I also think it might be just the pump gummed up, How do i actually clean the pump to get the gum out ?? ( Details on this would be helpful )
The filter is only about 1 1/2 years old as well, but it may have gum in it as well. Could i also just take this out and soak it in something ?
Thanks guys.
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Did you runfuel conditioner before parking the car? You have to add it to the fuel tank then run the engine for ~5mins to ensure its throughout the fuel system.
If you didn't then the entire fuel system is suspect; pump, filters, lines, injectors etc.
You need to refresh all the fuel with new.
If you know how to pull the FP relay and jumper then do that first and attempt start given that the battery is fully charged.
If you didn't then the entire fuel system is suspect; pump, filters, lines, injectors etc.
You need to refresh all the fuel with new.
If you know how to pull the FP relay and jumper then do that first and attempt start given that the battery is fully charged.
#3
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
No , I did not run any conditioner before letting it sit. I really didnt plan on it sitting that long, but i could never locate the battery drain i have, so i got tired of screwing with it. I understand what you are saying, but i guess i will start at the beginning of the system, pump/filter and go from there. Im really interested in taking them out, one at a time and cleaning them with some sort of chemical that will get the gum out and free it up.
#4
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My point is that the damage is done with no fuel conditioner si may as well attemp start.
Is the oil and oil filter fresh?
Drain the old fuel, fill with new fresh fuel, jumper the FP relay and with a fully charged battery start the engine.
Is the oil and oil filter fresh?
Drain the old fuel, fill with new fresh fuel, jumper the FP relay and with a fully charged battery start the engine.
#5
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Put some fuel stuff (berrymans, techron) in it, bridge the pump relay socket for 1/2 hour....Maybe check the fuel delivery rate at the return line.
jp 83 EuroS AT 53k
jp 83 EuroS AT 53k
#6
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If the pimp is locked up, some have had success getting them freed up by alternately reversing the polarity. Doesn't always work but may be worth a try.
Trending Topics
#9
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hello all, took the filter and pump out, cleaned it with carb cleaner and its now working. Well somehow when it put the fule filter back on it never tightened up, somehow i stripped the dam threads. I know the part number is 92811025306, but i was wondering if there is a fuel filter that is compatable that i can get at my local out parts store. Like a fram or something
thansk
thansk
#10
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Doubtful, but that would be nice. I have found it safest to remove the whole pump+filter assembly from the car (requires disconnecting electrical connections) and do all the filter work on the bench. The first time I found my local wrench stocked the S pipes, I knew it was common for things to go wrong here.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#12
Team Owner
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
FYI if you remove the capnut from the pump then the sealing rings must be replaced or reheated so they will get soft otherwise the hard line will leak,
the now leaking hard line then leads to overtightening of the cap nut,
then this distorts the hard line this then makes the leak worse as the sealing washers are not really pressing on a flat surface .
so then this leads to having to replace the hard line as well as the sealing washers
the now leaking hard line then leads to overtightening of the cap nut,
then this distorts the hard line this then makes the leak worse as the sealing washers are not really pressing on a flat surface .
so then this leads to having to replace the hard line as well as the sealing washers