FS: New Behr radiator
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From: Bend, Oregon
The S4+ cars have a temp transducer rather than a "switch" so getting the fans on earleir is a bit more that just an easy switch change. Then, the transducer is mounted in the radiator cold outlet rather than the coolant crossover bridge, so the temp read at the bridge with the dash gauge is only loosely related to the fan speeds (and flap positions) related to the temp transducer anyway.
My radiator is doing its job I think. Dash temps read the same as an IR read on the crossover, with 190-ish numbers whe the gauge points to the 190º (middle unmarked) line on the gauge. It only rarely gos to that line and even less rarely goes over, but... It does do that on 100º+ days at 70+ MPH, a symptom that the radiator is probably to the point where it has enough spare capacity to serve the load these days. I hate to say it, but a radiator is almost a consumable component; mine has enjoyed very regular coolant service and the like, but it's also 24 years old now. A new one can't hurt.
My radiator is doing its job I think. Dash temps read the same as an IR read on the crossover, with 190-ish numbers whe the gauge points to the 190º (middle unmarked) line on the gauge. It only rarely gos to that line and even less rarely goes over, but... It does do that on 100º+ days at 70+ MPH, a symptom that the radiator is probably to the point where it has enough spare capacity to serve the load these days. I hate to say it, but a radiator is almost a consumable component; mine has enjoyed very regular coolant service and the like, but it's also 24 years old now. A new one can't hurt.
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
I guess the best thing for me to do at this point is try to find some one who would know which radiator can shed more heat.
I did a test last week of changing the G-05 running 50-50 and water wetter to a 85% water/15% G-05 and water wetter, and it did run cooler, another pointer to me that it is a radiator issue.
What are your thoughts on my line of thinking on this?
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Stockton, CA
I do wonder how old the Estates radiator is..... It looks old...& could be 27 years old.....but it works pretty well...it must have been replaced at some point it the past.....
A new one isn't a bad idea.....
A new one isn't a bad idea.....
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Atlanta
I ran a 30 year old stock radiator in my race car for some time. With and without a cooling fan and with the stock and then big engine and it always cooled well with no issues. My new Griffin is a very nice one and thicker too, maybe it cools better but I'm not sure since there were no problems before.
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
I ran a 30 year old stock radiator in my race car for some time. With and without a cooling fan and with the stock and then big engine and it always cooled well with no issues. My new Griffin is a very nice one and thicker too, maybe it cools better but I'm not sure since there were no problems before.
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From: southern new england
Regarding cooling, mine when I first got it was always reading higher than I was comfortable with so I;
replaced the belt driven fan with an electric activated by manual switch
all new fluid
took the radiator out and cleaned as best I could all the tiny particles between the fins
cleaned the engine itself all over so that the bare metal can give off heat better
and removed all the AC crap in front of the radiator
All this helped to the point that when I forgot once to turn on the fan and drove 75 miles it never got warm/hot until I was stopped in traffic near the end of the ride. But even with the fan running, if stopped in traffic for a long time it starts to go up a little.
These engines get hot as hell, and have a very small opening to let in air when not moving. The radiator fins get clogged by minute particles over time AND I am missing the belly pan. I believe the missing belly pan allows air to fall out of the engine bay too soon, not removing a lot of heat from the back of the engine bay.
The plus off the manual switch that I rigged is that I let the fan run for a few minutes after the car is off, this removes a massive amount of heat at a critical point for the engine bits.
replaced the belt driven fan with an electric activated by manual switch
all new fluid
took the radiator out and cleaned as best I could all the tiny particles between the fins
cleaned the engine itself all over so that the bare metal can give off heat better
and removed all the AC crap in front of the radiator
All this helped to the point that when I forgot once to turn on the fan and drove 75 miles it never got warm/hot until I was stopped in traffic near the end of the ride. But even with the fan running, if stopped in traffic for a long time it starts to go up a little.
These engines get hot as hell, and have a very small opening to let in air when not moving. The radiator fins get clogged by minute particles over time AND I am missing the belly pan. I believe the missing belly pan allows air to fall out of the engine bay too soon, not removing a lot of heat from the back of the engine bay.
The plus off the manual switch that I rigged is that I let the fan run for a few minutes after the car is off, this removes a massive amount of heat at a critical point for the engine bits.
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From: Ball Ground, GA
Missing belly pan, missing spoiler, missing seals around the radiator will all allow hot air to flow back to the front of the radiator at stop and slow speeds, and this recirculation of hot air will contribute to overheating.
Probably little or no effect in Greg's case, of course.
Greg - there should be a little deflector in the top radiator inlet that helps spread the coolant flow across the radiator core. You might want to make sure that it is still there.
Probably little or no effect in Greg's case, of course.
Greg - there should be a little deflector in the top radiator inlet that helps spread the coolant flow across the radiator core. You might want to make sure that it is still there.
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
Missing belly pan, missing spoiler, missing seals around the radiator will all allow hot air to flow back to the front of the radiator at stop and slow speeds, and this recirculation of hot air will contribute to overheating.
Probably little or no effect in Greg's case, of course.
Greg - there should be a little deflector in the top radiator inlet that helps spread the coolant flow across the radiator core. You might want to make sure that it is still there.
Probably little or no effect in Greg's case, of course.
Greg - there should be a little deflector in the top radiator inlet that helps spread the coolant flow across the radiator core. You might want to make sure that it is still there.
I would be thrilled if it could be that simple.
Been selling Twinkies on Ebay,
have some extra cash right now.
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg
I have the two cooler one in mine, but right now I am only using one,
While OT for this thread, I also have the trans cooler that sits on top of the condenser and I plan on putting one of Mike Simard's spray bar set ups for my trans and will use that one to cool the transaxle gear oil, like the GTS's have.
I also have a a shot at getting a GTS air to oil cooler for the engine oil, and will ask Greg Brown to make me hoses to run both the liquid to liquid radiator cooler and a air to liquid cooler for the engine oil, that has to help shed some heat.
I can turn my heater on when I am running at speed and running warm and it knocks the temps right off, so it is just barely unable to keep it cool.
BTW, if any of you folks have not seen the hoses Greg Brown makes, you need to check them out, like every thing else he makes they are just superb.
We have installed three or four sets now, and for the most part all it takes is folks looking at them to be sold on them.
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From: Bird lover in Sharpsburg