Cup rims
#2
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Sorry, forgot to attach the picture.
Again:
How can I tell if these rims are the genuine C2 cup rims and not cheap immitations? The rims are now on a 3.2 Carrera.
Again:
How can I tell if these rims are the genuine C2 cup rims and not cheap immitations? The rims are now on a 3.2 Carrera.
#3
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If it has a 965 part number, it is the real deal.
#4
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Easy way to tell if they are factory rims is if there are raised numbers on either side of the valve stem giving the rim width and et (offset) . If you can look at the back side of the wheel, you'll know for sure as was mentioned with a 965 prefix on the part no.
Last edited by redpathtribe; 07-25-2011 at 02:12 AM. Reason: He said C2 rims, not Cup II... my bad...
#7
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Here are some pics of a stock rear Cup 2 (that I've just had refinished to better than factory inside and out) .. you can see the width and offset marks near the valve hole, and the P/N inside.
Standard Cup 2's are 7.5" ET 65 front and 9"ET 55 rear.
Rear P/N is 993 362 128 00 and front P/N is 993 362 124 05.
Standard Cup 2's are 7.5" ET 65 front and 9"ET 55 rear.
Rear P/N is 993 362 128 00 and front P/N is 993 362 124 05.
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#8
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The Cup 1's have P/N rear of 965 362 168 00 and front P/N of 965 362 164 05.
It's a bit difficult to see in that photo, but I can't see the width and offset raised cast marks near the valve hole so I think it's likely they're replicas.
Don't buy any wheels unless you have a picture of the front and the rear of each one, that clearly shows part numbers and cast marks near the valve hole (which genuine wheels have) ... so you can identify what's being offered.
You also need to know, with any secondhand wheel, that you're buying wheels that haven't been damaged and then repaired.
It's a bit difficult to see in that photo, but I can't see the width and offset raised cast marks near the valve hole so I think it's likely they're replicas.
Don't buy any wheels unless you have a picture of the front and the rear of each one, that clearly shows part numbers and cast marks near the valve hole (which genuine wheels have) ... so you can identify what's being offered.
You also need to know, with any secondhand wheel, that you're buying wheels that haven't been damaged and then repaired.
Last edited by Dave928S; 07-25-2011 at 08:43 PM. Reason: repeated rear P/N for front ... front now correct
#10
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Sorry to go OT on the reply too Heinrich ... the guy that did them for me here in Tasmania has been doing wheels for 30+ years and works magic on them. He does lots of wheels on brand new luxury cars for owners who are not happy with the factory finish, and work on competition custom wheels, etc etc.
It'll almost be a pity to put them on the car.
It'll almost be a pity to put them on the car.
#11
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Here's the inside of a factory Cup 1 rim showing the part # and other casting information:
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/Cup1%20front%20inner%20rim.jpg)
#12
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That's what I really love about this forum. You have a question and there's the answer right awy. Thank you all for preventing me from buying the wrong wheels!