80 euro A/C vacuum and power connections
#1
80 euro A/C vacuum and power connections
80 Euro
I am chasing a blending door issue and found the power wire to this solenoid removed. PO had taped this Purple/yellow wire; when activated with my power probe the dash lamps/warning and clock lamp turn on. This maybe the wire to this solenoid but I am not sure; it shows power when ingnition is turned on.
I have a blue and red vacuum hose attached to this solenoid, I found the heater valve not getting vacuum, the blue line per manual is to the air bypass door the red is the the hater valve. Upon looking into it there is another blue vacuum line the controls what it seems to be the blender door verified by M/Vac. It goes up into the dash and a 3-way vacuum connector and one line is disconnected. This may explain why the bleeding door may not be working.
What I need to find out is what power connector goes to this solenoid, is it the taped off purple/yellow one?
Where does the 3-way vacuum connect for the red/blue line?
Any one have some pictures this is way different then the auto climate control units.
I am chasing a blending door issue and found the power wire to this solenoid removed. PO had taped this Purple/yellow wire; when activated with my power probe the dash lamps/warning and clock lamp turn on. This maybe the wire to this solenoid but I am not sure; it shows power when ingnition is turned on.
I have a blue and red vacuum hose attached to this solenoid, I found the heater valve not getting vacuum, the blue line per manual is to the air bypass door the red is the the hater valve. Upon looking into it there is another blue vacuum line the controls what it seems to be the blender door verified by M/Vac. It goes up into the dash and a 3-way vacuum connector and one line is disconnected. This may explain why the bleeding door may not be working.
What I need to find out is what power connector goes to this solenoid, is it the taped off purple/yellow one?
Where does the 3-way vacuum connect for the red/blue line?
Any one have some pictures this is way different then the auto climate control units.
#2
According to sheet 97-109 of the wiring diagram, the violet/yellow wire goes to one side of the solenoid, and a brown wire and a direct ground go on the other side.
The blue hose should be connected to one side of the solenoid, the red comes from a T with one green and another red, onto the other side of the solenoid. See page 30 of the service technik info '80 document.
The blue hose should be connected to one side of the solenoid, the red comes from a T with one green and another red, onto the other side of the solenoid. See page 30 of the service technik info '80 document.
#4
Thanks,
I think I got it but after connecting the Purple/Yellow wire to the solenoid the dash light come on with the key. Some one has been into the car big time starting to loose my mind.
Does anyone know if there is an O-ring or crush washer on the bottom drain bolt of the compressor?
I think I got it but after connecting the Purple/Yellow wire to the solenoid the dash light come on with the key. Some one has been into the car big time starting to loose my mind.
Does anyone know if there is an O-ring or crush washer on the bottom drain bolt of the compressor?
#5
General guideline - anytime that auto electrics start doing strange things, check the grounds.
Try putting a direct ground wire to the other side of the solenoid.
There should be a sealing ring of some type on the bolt - no idea which, though.
Try putting a direct ground wire to the other side of the solenoid.
There should be a sealing ring of some type on the bolt - no idea which, though.
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#8
Smiffy,
I did finally find the wiring diagram, the ground wire is attached to the far left side if a long metal frame and is good. When I got into it the main feed to the solenoid was disconnected and taped. I can energize it with my power probe and the dash lamps came on the same way. This seems to be a direct power feed
I did finally find the wiring diagram, the ground wire is attached to the far left side if a long metal frame and is good. When I got into it the main feed to the solenoid was disconnected and taped. I can energize it with my power probe and the dash lamps came on the same way. This seems to be a direct power feed
#9
You still haven't said which dash lamps?
Anyway, with the diagram you can check the rest of the wiring.
(Looking at that sheet, they have labelled the defrost and blower relays the wrong way around.)
Does the A/C actually work?
Anyway, with the diagram you can check the rest of the wiring.
(Looking at that sheet, they have labelled the defrost and blower relays the wrong way around.)
Does the A/C actually work?
#10
The cluster lamps turn on, I even removed the wire to the Solenoid and they stay on with the key in first position. PO added some type of blue box I think for remote but did not want to mess with it.
The air works but has a leak at the R/D to condenser connection. The condenser fitting was pretty corroded. The controller after reattaching the removed vacuum lines works but the fan stays on on all speeds even when off. Seems like PO had a problem and did some work around that I am working to ID.
I am working on this for a friend and have way too many hours on it. It is possible that the control head is shot but not sure if I could even find one this old. This has a manual heater cable and is almost imposable to remove to check it out.
I thought the OB were easier to work on
The air works but has a leak at the R/D to condenser connection. The condenser fitting was pretty corroded. The controller after reattaching the removed vacuum lines works but the fan stays on on all speeds even when off. Seems like PO had a problem and did some work around that I am working to ID.
I am working on this for a friend and have way too many hours on it. It is possible that the control head is shot but not sure if I could even find one this old. This has a manual heater cable and is almost imposable to remove to check it out.
I thought the OB were easier to work on
#11
I decided to remove the air control head I now see the problem:
There is a cherry switch that controls the power for on and off. The switch has a groove worn in it and is not making contact that would explain the lighting issue when the unit is in the air mode. I am assuming that it is feeding power back to the circuit when in operation mode getting the power from another circuit. This would explain why someone removed the wire and taped it from the solenoid. There are also two large red wires taped near the center console I have not traced them yet.
The switch is riveted on so is there anything I can add to the small plastic tab to build it up that would stay. I guess I could drill it out but I am concerned about the age of the plastic, any suggestions?
There is a cherry switch that controls the power for on and off. The switch has a groove worn in it and is not making contact that would explain the lighting issue when the unit is in the air mode. I am assuming that it is feeding power back to the circuit when in operation mode getting the power from another circuit. This would explain why someone removed the wire and taped it from the solenoid. There are also two large red wires taped near the center console I have not traced them yet.
The switch is riveted on so is there anything I can add to the small plastic tab to build it up that would stay. I guess I could drill it out but I am concerned about the age of the plastic, any suggestions?
#12
Here is a puzzle:
The L-1, L-2 and T connections are not correct according to the manual.
I found the following
On L-1 and L-2 a plug is inserted on the vacuum distributor.
On L-1-T a jumper vacuum hose is connected to L-13 to T-3 and L-1 5 to T-5
There are two SMALL connections that look like nothing was ever connected to them seems like a vent only on T- 1 & T-2
On the diagram they show T-1 to L-2 which has the plug T-2 goes to hot water valve.
Is there a different diagram for an 80-Euro or has some one changed the sequence.
The L-1, L-2 and T connections are not correct according to the manual.
I found the following
On L-1 and L-2 a plug is inserted on the vacuum distributor.
On L-1-T a jumper vacuum hose is connected to L-13 to T-3 and L-1 5 to T-5
There are two SMALL connections that look like nothing was ever connected to them seems like a vent only on T- 1 & T-2
On the diagram they show T-1 to L-2 which has the plug T-2 goes to hot water valve.
Is there a different diagram for an 80-Euro or has some one changed the sequence.
#13
Pictures: Any one run into this before it seems like the solenoid was added to this mix and if I use the diagram not sure if it will work. I have no idea if any thing was changed by P.O. but any help will be greatly appreciated.
#14
I found a cherry switch at Granger and believe the vacuum hoses are correct. I checked the solenoids with a mighty vac and the center flap is now working.
Off of the solenoid is a blue hose that goes to U and it is not holding seems it route under the drivers dash but the hose runs all the way out under the cowl.
Does anyone know where this vacuum actuator is located ?
Thanks Smiffy
"I see a new diagram was entered with the solenoid showing"
Off of the solenoid is a blue hose that goes to U and it is not holding seems it route under the drivers dash but the hose runs all the way out under the cowl.
Does anyone know where this vacuum actuator is located ?
Thanks Smiffy
"I see a new diagram was entered with the solenoid showing"
#15
80 Euro with manual heat control.
After hours of working on this mucked up system I still cannot find the fresh air flap actuator. It seems to reside under the blower at least that is where the blue vacuum line goes.
I poked around under the passenger side and do not see it. This is the last piece to repair.
Someone must know this answer of how to find it at a minimum close it. Do I need to remove the blower motor?
Anyone??
After hours of working on this mucked up system I still cannot find the fresh air flap actuator. It seems to reside under the blower at least that is where the blue vacuum line goes.
I poked around under the passenger side and do not see it. This is the last piece to repair.
Someone must know this answer of how to find it at a minimum close it. Do I need to remove the blower motor?
Anyone??