1st Porsche, 1st 928
#31
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-A) drill a hole and bolt in
or
-B) 5 minute trip to the exhaust shop to weld in a bung.
Last edited by Mark in Japan; 07-20-2011 at 10:31 PM.
#32
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Mark, I will be very surprised to learn that the rear hatch was ever made of auminum. I am prettty sure that they are all steel. I think the design object was to shift the weight to the rear to get a near equal weight distribution, and putting a light weight hatch would not contribute to that goal.
The only things aluminum, and I am pretty sure it is common to all the cars, are the hood, the front fenders and the door. That is not counting much of the inner bumper bars and the undercarriage, engine and some drive train items.
If I am right, it may be that you have not in fact found the right guy. Sounds to me like he is making it up as he goes or operating on mere rumors or scuttlebut. Be careful about what kind of information he is feeding you.
Good luck with your car; and stay tuned with this fourm.
Jerry Feather
The only things aluminum, and I am pretty sure it is common to all the cars, are the hood, the front fenders and the door. That is not counting much of the inner bumper bars and the undercarriage, engine and some drive train items.
If I am right, it may be that you have not in fact found the right guy. Sounds to me like he is making it up as he goes or operating on mere rumors or scuttlebut. Be careful about what kind of information he is feeding you.
Good luck with your car; and stay tuned with this fourm.
Jerry Feather
Let me clarify;
1) Front of car/engine roof/hood/shark nose/etc = bonnet*
"Is it the original alloy bonnet*, or a steel replacement?" and
2) Rear of car/trunk/bootlid/aquarium/backlite/rear windscreen/etc = hatch
"Which wing do you have on the hatch?"
As the thread title & my low post count implies, I am new to Porsches (but in no way new to fixing cars that others said were "too far gone"), and in no way want to tell others what is what on Porsches.....but as per the "Newbie Thread" I have tried to do as much reading as possible, before speaking.
In my last 3 days reading, I must have read a thousand posts about poor starting/running, and the answer to 98% of them seems to have been
So I feel that spending <$500 on an A/F probe/gauge & a fuel Pressure Gauge inline between the FD & WUR will save hundreds of hours of tossing around while not KNOWING what is happening, let alone allowing accurate fuel mix tuning saving petrol (gas) over the coming years.
I'm not suggesting that anyone else should do anything with THEIR cars.....just sharing my thought processes with MY car.
If my ideas give one minute of help to someone else in forum land, to repay all the fantastic help I've got from just reading this wonderful store for information, then my karma & Carma will be zen...
#33
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If there are issues with the running of the engine NOW , that can be put down to fuel supply, that make it unusable or not enjoyable, the first thing I would suggest is a CIS gauge set from Roger, and access to Ben Watson's book on troubleshooting CIS. This should anble you to diagnose the problems, and get them corrected. Whatever you do after that is for fun. One day a pressure gauge might tell you the WUR is blocking up, or the regulator is failing, or the pump is failing, but I would bet you will know something is amiss from the seat of the pants meter. CIS car hate not being used the most.
I have a unit displaying ECU data on my Subie just out of interest mostly, but it can show and reset error codes if anything develops.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
I have a unit displaying ECU data on my Subie just out of interest mostly, but it can show and reset error codes if anything develops.
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
#37
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The device in the photo is to increase the idle speed when the A/C is turned on. If you know where the proper wires are and they are connected properly, why not reconnect them?
#38
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Also, my Fuel Distributor has an empty plastic multipin plug at the bottom left, with no wiring harness plug to go into it.
Considering that mine is an Aussie 09/82 CIS car, with no O2 sensor etc.....what's going on here?
Replaced at some point with a later model FD????
If so, are there any implications???
Cheers in advance for all the opinions to be forwarded.... a stunning amount of knwledge in this place!!!!!
#39
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There are 2 naked wires nearby....I'll test if they get power when the A/C is switched on, then connect them up!
#40
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Also, my Fuel Distributor has an empty plastic multipin plug at the bottom left, with no wiring harness plug to go into it.
Considering that mine is an Aussie 09/82 CIS car, with no O2 sensor etc.....what's going on here?
Replaced at some point with a later model FD????
If so, are there any implications???
Cheers in advance for all the opinions to be forwarded.... a stunning amount of knwledge in this place!!!!!
I think Porsche used the same basic design on the 930s (naturally different fuel distributor and added KE) all the way into the 90s. Your 928 may have had some parts swapped from other cars - that stuff with the plug looks like it may have come off a Porsche (or Mercedes??) with KE Jetronic injection - the CIS system with a frequency valve to fine tune the fuel flow with a closed circuit O2 sensor. Yours is unplugged because there is NOTHING to plug into it on a Porsche 928!!
#41
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#42
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I have two '79 928s and have had both fuel distributors rebuilt. So I've fiddled about down there a bit. Neither '79s had such a plug.
I think Porsche used the same basic design on the 930s (naturally different fuel distributor and added KE) all the way into the 90s. Your 928 may have had some parts swapped from other cars - that stuff with the plug looks like it may have come off a Porsche (or Mercedes??) with KE Jetronic injection - the CIS system with a frequency valve to fine tune the fuel flow with a closed circuit O2 sensor. Yours is unplugged because there is NOTHING to plug into it on a Porsche 928!!
I think Porsche used the same basic design on the 930s (naturally different fuel distributor and added KE) all the way into the 90s. Your 928 may have had some parts swapped from other cars - that stuff with the plug looks like it may have come off a Porsche (or Mercedes??) with KE Jetronic injection - the CIS system with a frequency valve to fine tune the fuel flow with a closed circuit O2 sensor. Yours is unplugged because there is NOTHING to plug into it on a Porsche 928!!
I might have to look into benefits/possibilities of one day hooking it up to the Innovate A/F meter to have feedback adjustment of fuel mixture????
Ideas, Ideas.
#43
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OK.....today's outcomes....
Car starts fine on CSV (?) then dies.
Car idles for as long as I spray aerosol either down it's throat, meaning, it's not getting fuel, but spark is probably OK!
I did here the high pitch whine starting, so unless it was Amy Winehouse's ghost, I think the Injectors (well, some of them???) were starting to work???
Following a "Know, don't assume" approach,
Next will be
1) replace Fuel Filter &
test flow from naked Fuel Pump (Volume 1,1L/30 Sec) (Pressure 5 bar)
2) If they pass, it will be disassemble & scrub WUR (especially screens)
and install fuel pressure gauges inline for System Pressure & Control Pressure
3) Next will be cross fingers & hope, then,
4) get injectors ultrasonically cleaned and
get Fuel Distributor rebuilt.
while experts will tell me that some of these steps are not really necessary, I think it would be good preventative maintenance to do ALL of these thing on an unknown 30 year old car.
I'm only doing it step wise for my own curiosity, to see which one (or one's) are the golden bullet.
Thanks for all help, opinions & otherwise!!!!!
Car starts fine on CSV (?) then dies.
Car idles for as long as I spray aerosol either down it's throat, meaning, it's not getting fuel, but spark is probably OK!
I did here the high pitch whine starting, so unless it was Amy Winehouse's ghost, I think the Injectors (well, some of them???) were starting to work???
Following a "Know, don't assume" approach,
Next will be
1) replace Fuel Filter &
test flow from naked Fuel Pump (Volume 1,1L/30 Sec) (Pressure 5 bar)
2) If they pass, it will be disassemble & scrub WUR (especially screens)
and install fuel pressure gauges inline for System Pressure & Control Pressure
3) Next will be cross fingers & hope, then,
4) get injectors ultrasonically cleaned and
get Fuel Distributor rebuilt.
while experts will tell me that some of these steps are not really necessary, I think it would be good preventative maintenance to do ALL of these thing on an unknown 30 year old car.
I'm only doing it step wise for my own curiosity, to see which one (or one's) are the golden bullet.
Thanks for all help, opinions & otherwise!!!!!
#44
Drifting
Hi Mark , that three pin male multiplug terminal you have circled in red( base of fuel dist head/sensor plate housing) is unused male plug for the fuel economy gauge ( option only) for the K-Ket 928 series , meaning if there is no female multi plug connecting to it( which is what you have), then the option box ( when new) was not ticked for this option, meaning there is no ( electronic ) fuel economy / consumption gauge that was incorporated into the lower half of the Tacho , that's all that is , it has nothing to do with any other Porsche model in that year type , its 928 only .
Regards
Bruce Buchanan
Regards
Bruce Buchanan
#45
Drifting
Hi Mark , could you check the first 10 digits of your'e Vin Number .
It should read ( for a Aus Del 1983 year type) WPO ZZZ 92 Z D...................
( Do not post the last 6 numbers)
So for 1980 it will be = WPO ZZZ 92 Z A ....................
1981 it will be = WPO ZZZ 92 Z B ....................
1982 it will be = WPO ZZZ 92 Z C ....................
And for Engine type/ number stamped on the engine for a ROW 1983 Auto you will see M28 / 12 then the line below will be 8 2 D ......................
These numbers mean M28 = 928 V8 engine prefix
12 = 928s with auto trans
8 = 8 cylinder
2 = 4.7L ROW = Rest Of World ( not USA or Japan etc)
D = 1983 year type engine
Just want to make sure its a 1983 year type , this will make it easier when you order parts etc .
Regards
Bruce Buchanan
It should read ( for a Aus Del 1983 year type) WPO ZZZ 92 Z D...................
( Do not post the last 6 numbers)
So for 1980 it will be = WPO ZZZ 92 Z A ....................
1981 it will be = WPO ZZZ 92 Z B ....................
1982 it will be = WPO ZZZ 92 Z C ....................
And for Engine type/ number stamped on the engine for a ROW 1983 Auto you will see M28 / 12 then the line below will be 8 2 D ......................
These numbers mean M28 = 928 V8 engine prefix
12 = 928s with auto trans
8 = 8 cylinder
2 = 4.7L ROW = Rest Of World ( not USA or Japan etc)
D = 1983 year type engine
Just want to make sure its a 1983 year type , this will make it easier when you order parts etc .
Regards
Bruce Buchanan