Dean_Fuller

Its been a week and no start. I KNOW I have fuel ( I can smell it after cranking awhile ) and I tested tonight to verify I have spark.

IF...an I mean IF its the anti theft not disengaging then what? Can I discount that if I have spark? Not sure HOW the anti theft disables the car.

I have reseated relays...car turns over but SOUNDS like there is no spark but there is.

Ideas? I'm getting frustrated.

jcorenman

Dean,

If you've got fuel and spark, then I think you can rule out the anti-theft.

Have you pulled the plugs and checked for wetness and/or fuel smell? The only time I've had a no-start problem with fuel and spark was when it was flooded... and the more I cranked, the more flooded it got.

Try pulling the fuel-pump fuse, foot to the floor, and crank for a bit-- that will ventilate things, without fuel. Or pull the plugs and let it sit overnight.

Gtaebr

Dean do you have fuel pressure?
Is the pump running on crank?

+1 on pull plug

GlenL

You've checked the spark in what way?

How do you know it's sparking at the right time?

Dean_Fuller

I used a spare plug into a wire and laid on the intake. No reason to think it has jumped timing but I who knows.

I will try any ideas at this point.

Dean_Fuller

I can hear it and smell fuel after just a little while.

Dean_Fuller

Jim...thats a good idea. I will try that Sunday.

Mrmerlin

; check that the fuel dampers and the FPR vacuum lines dont smell like fuel,
pull off the hose and smell the end if you smell gas then that part is leaking fuel into the intake and thus flooding the engine,
Also Pull the dipstick and smell for gas..,
Then if you dont find any fuel in the vacuum lines, before you pull the plugs out try holding the pedal to the floor and crank it till it runs,

Rich9928p

Vacuum leak?

123quattro

It sounds like you definitely have spark. I wouldn't assume that you have the right amount of fuel. If you did it would run. Put a pressure gauge on the rail and verify pressure. If that's good then the ignition timing is off, or the cam timing is off.

SeanR

Sounds like it is flooded. Did you try to hold your foot to the floor while cranking?

hans14914

I have had similar experience on my 89 when the system voltage drops to low. Plenty of juice to get the injectors going, but not enough to get it to fire... results in a severly flooded engine. While the traditional wisdom of holding the the pedal down and cranking has cleared other cars I have owned, it has never really worked on my 928 (maybe once), the ammount of time its going to take to clear that much fuel and dry the plugs to a point of ignition is going to be hell on your starter and will probably drain your battery to a point of needing a charger put on before getting any results. I would just pull the plugs, and clean them (they will be fowled out), and either get some shop air and blow the cylinders out, or let it sit overnight with the plugs out. As always, be very careful when using shop air on a flooded cylinder, you will have a very ignition prone gaseous vapor, so no heat/flame sources near the car, and fire extinguisher handy. Make sure you have a strong battery in there before trying to start it again.

Hans

Dean_Fuller

Will try all of this in a couple days. Too busy helping my folks right now.

THANKS for the fast feedback AND ideas. I swear you guys are life savers...really.

Dean_Fuller

Update...
removed relay XX which is fuel pump. Car started right away....ran until motor ran out of gas. Replaced relay...NO START. Removed relay...car starts and runs until out of gas. Tried DIFFERENT relay and still no start. Removed relay..starts until gas it gone.

It sounds like the car floods with a relay in place right away.

Ideas?

Hilton

According to the relay charts, that relay is also for the O2 sensor.

Is it possible the O2 sensor leads are shorted (either in the harness, or internally to the sensor) and when the fuel pump relay energizes the sensor heater (and the fuel pump), current is going to the wrong place in the LH harness? (the O2 sensor is on the LH harness). e.g. if a heater wire is shorted to the signal, it'll be passing 12V to the LH on the O2 signal pin (or grounding it), preventing injectors from running.

Its possible replacing the O2 sensor might fix the issue, but to avoid fixing non-broken things I'd start by using a multimeter to test continuity of all 3 connections to the O2 sensor against the various LH connector pins, and against the signal wire (remember the heater wires should have continuity!).