918-S

I have a euro M28/11 CIS. I want to rebuild the fuel dizzy but I was thinking I may just want buy a core dizzy to rebuild then swap out the dizzy. Or buy a rebuilt part then swap out mine. Is there any difference between a US spec and a euro spec fule distributor.

Mrmerlin

before you do any work on the distributor what running issues are you having,
if it aint broke dont fix it,
running the engine frequently is usually a good idea for this part

danglerb

I think on early cars all CIS used the same fuel distributor, with a different WUR for S, but the S I think changed in the last year maybe earlier.

I haven't heard of anybody real happy with any rebuilder yet, but a couple guys followed one of the old guides and have running cars.

Dave928S

From what I can see in PET there only appear to be differences in ancillary items, like the vacuum limiting valve, between the different CIS assemblies.
I agree that it's best to leave the distributor body alone, unless there is a problem that you can directly attribute to it that would necessitate a rebuild.

LT Texan

I bought (and had installed professionally) a rebuilt fuel distributor for my '78. Bought it from 928 Int'l.

Must have been 10 - 12 years ago.

Never a problem with it.

I'm real happy.

918-S

Thanks guys,

I think I have a perfect storm of things happening.

The engine is a 5.0 Hybrid. Bored M28/11 block, 32 valve pistons, M28/11 heads, cams, and intake etc.

The engine starts instantly but low idles cold.

When the engine warms up it has a high idle.

Exhaust is black and smells rich but not all the time.

I have tested the electrical connections for the WUR, AAR, and CSV all tested good. I have checked for external vaccum leaks on all hoses, intakes and components that all tested good. I have not connected a vaccum gauge yet.

Fuel mileage is all over the map. I just ran from MN to OR, about 4500 miles. The worse mileage is 14.3 mostly around 19 mpg but I did hit 26 mpg on one tank.

I want to rebuild all the components. WUR, FD, ect and try to sort out the F.I. for good.

Mrmerlin

if you want to do this then first you need to take pressure readings ,
THEN and only then repair one component at a time.

others have had battles with the system and if methodology isnt followed things could get worse. Do you have fuel accumulator in the system?
Did you install a new WUR?
Sometimes the WUR needs to taken apart and then recalibrated and this one part fixes the running issues

svpmx83

agreed, check the fuel pressure hot and cold at the WUR as per the manual and go from there.
Pay particular attention to checking the two filter screens at the fuel inlets to the WUR and fuel distributor. I had similar issues to yours on my Euro S and it turned out to be a blockage at the WUR inlet filter

918-S

I was just going to search out the WUR and see what pressure gauge set I need to get the correct fittings for the test. I agree I need to base line this and start with the WUR. I had an expereinced CIS guy check the thing out but we never put a gauge on the engine as I drove 150 miles to his shop. There was no real way to cool the engine and WUR for a cold reading and I couldn't leave the car. However he was under the impression the WUR could be part of the issue.

But this engine sat a long time before I ended up with it and it sits for extended periods of time here as well. A rebuild and cleaning of the fuel dizzy couldn't hurt. Which brings me back to my original question about the compatability of the US spec cars and the Euro cars.

Edit: I have a Volvo Turbo Accumulator and pump.

I will check the screens in the WUR first.

James Bailey

Actually ...." A rebuild and cleaning of the fuel dizzy couldn't hurt." it really really could ! At one time the Bosch rebuilt fuel distributors stated that half of the fuel distributor cores sent in for rebuilding had NOTHING wrong with them also they would not accept as cores any units that had been opened.....
The vast majority of CIS running issues are control pressure problems the "warm-up" regulator is ALWAYS setting the fuel mixture..always. Also note that USA and Euro are much different regulators even the wiring to the unit differs and if you plug in it can burn up the internal coil in a few minutes.
To do anything with C I S you MUST have pressure gauges the whole system operates off differential pressures. The control pressure regulator is the brains of a brainless system.

918-S

Thanks James, as always I hold comments in the highest regard.

GlenL

Rick,

My Euro WUR is sitting in the garage with no engine attached to it. Drop by and we'll give it a whirl.

918-S

Maybe I can drive down this weekend. BTW. you need any parts? I may have some spare stuff like maybe a new 4.7 gasket set? maybe.. I have to look. Maybe rings that have under 200 miles on them

GlenL

Rick,

Let me know what your plans are. I should be in the garage.

I'm hoping to re-build with the 98mm pistons. Might need some 97mm pistons if the machine shop work doesn't go well. Fixing some corrosion on the deck. I've got almost everything else. Ya got some nice-looking head studs? My selection of studs could be stronger. Don't want to pull them from the other blocks. Better to leave those alone and I might want to use both of them eventually.

918-S

I have some already removed. I assume you have some that are showing corrosion. I had a good block I was going to have bored out but broke a stud off in the block that was not a good day. I'll dig them out.