5 spd front shift ball cup bushing replacement - Update - problem found
07-04-2011, 01:27 PM
#1
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5 spd front shift ball cup bushing replacement - Update - problem found
My forward shift ball cup bushing has disintegrated. I had some tie wraps around the rod to hols in place.
I had to grind off the bolts holding on the heat shield but finally got it off.
I can't see a way to get the ball cup clear of the ball. It does not move up far enough to clear the ball before hitting the top of the tunnel. How would it ever pop off?
Do you have to rotate the adjustable end to rotate the cup off the ball/ Mine is very rusted and I am concerned about screwing it up wprse than just having a missing bushing!
I had to grind off the bolts holding on the heat shield but finally got it off.
I can't see a way to get the ball cup clear of the ball. It does not move up far enough to clear the ball before hitting the top of the tunnel. How would it ever pop off?
Do you have to rotate the adjustable end to rotate the cup off the ball/ Mine is very rusted and I am concerned about screwing it up wprse than just having a missing bushing!
Last edited by jwillman; 07-05-2011 at 08:11 PM.
07-04-2011, 02:30 PM
#2
Craic Head
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You should have enough room to pop it off. It's tight, but there should be room.
Can you post a pic or measure the distance to show what you've got to work with?
Can you post a pic or measure the distance to show what you've got to work with?
07-04-2011, 03:35 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Unfortunately I can't get a good shot, working on jacks.
Looks like the top of the socket hits the tunnel with an 1/8inch of the ball still to clear.
Looks like the top of the socket hits the tunnel with an 1/8inch of the ball still to clear.
07-04-2011, 03:54 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Sounds strange. Any reason why, maybe, the motor mounts would be too high?
On mine there was definitely room to pop it off and on. I do think I had to twist it a bit to the side to get it off, though.
FWIW, on mine, I used a torch to melt the old insert and make it easier to pull out of the housing with a seal puller while the cup was still on the shaft.
On mine there was definitely room to pop it off and on. I do think I had to twist it a bit to the side to get it off, though.
FWIW, on mine, I used a torch to melt the old insert and make it easier to pull out of the housing with a seal puller while the cup was still on the shaft.
07-04-2011, 04:05 PM
#5
Archive Gatekeeper
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The ball cup needs to move rearward, then the whole release arm rotates clockwise (IIRC) into the opening of the upper bellhousing, giving you enough room to pull the old insert out and pop the new one onto the ball.
Did you shim the pressure plate? You need three bent nails in a 'U' shape, then with the car up on jackstands, you pull the lower bellhousing cover (after pulling the clutch slave, sway bar, and starter, ugh). Then using a bigass pry bar lever the lower half of the the release arm (still on what's left of the ball, btw) rearward and shim the PP. Then rotate the engine 120 degrees (clockwise only
) and repeat till all three shims are in. This will give enough slack on the release arm that you can get it off the ball. Pic shows where the shims go.
Did you shim the pressure plate? You need three bent nails in a 'U' shape, then with the car up on jackstands, you pull the lower bellhousing cover (after pulling the clutch slave, sway bar, and starter, ugh). Then using a bigass pry bar lever the lower half of the the release arm (still on what's left of the ball, btw) rearward and shim the PP. Then rotate the engine 120 degrees (clockwise only
) and repeat till all three shims are in. This will give enough slack on the release arm that you can get it off the ball. Pic shows where the shims go.
07-04-2011, 04:15 PM
#7
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Man, I am losing it. Carry on.... 
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07-04-2011, 05:09 PM
#8
Race Director
the forward shifter cup is a PITA.....it can be done, but the really hard part is "snapping" the new one on the ball.....a couple well placed LARGE hose clamps can do it.....
07-04-2011, 05:34 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
I gave up and decided to put a steel band hose clamp on to keep the socketr on the ball till I figured out how to proceed.
Put the heat shield back on with new hardware and dropped the car off the jacks.
Shifter has always been a bit vague but I could not get it in to reverse. I had to pullshift boot to get enough lateral travel to hit reverse. I now have 3+ inches of lateral travel when in gear and finding the gears is a nightmare.
All I did was add the clamp in place of zip ties. Now what? Looks like I need to be reworking the entire shift linkkage front and back.
Put the heat shield back on with new hardware and dropped the car off the jacks.
Shifter has always been a bit vague but I could not get it in to reverse. I had to pullshift boot to get enough lateral travel to hit reverse. I now have 3+ inches of lateral travel when in gear and finding the gears is a nightmare.
All I did was add the clamp in place of zip ties. Now what? Looks like I need to be reworking the entire shift linkkage front and back.
07-04-2011, 05:41 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Sounds strange. Any reason why, maybe, the motor mounts would be too high?
On mine there was definitely room to pop it off and on. I do think I had to twist it a bit to the side to get it off, though.
FWIW, on mine, I used a torch to melt the old insert and make it easier to pull out of the housing with a seal puller while the cup was still on the shaft.
On mine there was definitely room to pop it off and on. I do think I had to twist it a bit to the side to get it off, though.
FWIW, on mine, I used a torch to melt the old insert and make it easier to pull out of the housing with a seal puller while the cup was still on the shaft.
07-04-2011, 05:57 PM
#12
Team Owner
from the info provided it sounds like the rear shift coupler has also failed or its loose enough to have readjusted itself to be out of position.
it might be worth a look,
Note the front shifter cup is for front to back orientation,
the rear coupler is for left to right if you have 3 inches then possibly one of the rear bushings has fallen out or the 13mm lock bolt that clamps the coupler to the shaft isnt tight enough and thus the coupler has moved inside the rear shift rod. .
Reference the WSM for proper shifter orientation.
Of course you could install Colins new shifter and remove the front rod complete
Roger sells them
it might be worth a look,
Note the front shifter cup is for front to back orientation,
the rear coupler is for left to right if you have 3 inches then possibly one of the rear bushings has fallen out or the 13mm lock bolt that clamps the coupler to the shaft isnt tight enough and thus the coupler has moved inside the rear shift rod. .
Reference the WSM for proper shifter orientation.
Of course you could install Colins new shifter and remove the front rod complete
Roger sells them
07-04-2011, 06:03 PM
#13
Craic Head
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Yup, you're in for both of those sets of bushings/couplers. I would also recommend the release arm ball cup as well.
They're all a major PITA but in the grand scheme of things there are very few ways to really improve the way the car operates that would cost less than these three parts.
They're all a major PITA but in the grand scheme of things there are very few ways to really improve the way the car operates that would cost less than these three parts.
07-04-2011, 06:55 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Mike,
The release arm is a whole 'nother ball of wax on the '78-79's as they use a metal/metal ball and cup.
And the ball is smaller. IIRC, a new style assy is recommended per SB and requires a little surgery.
I'm a little vague on this because I have never done it. Strangely, my #6 had it done, which I was happy to see.
The release arm is a whole 'nother ball of wax on the '78-79's as they use a metal/metal ball and cup.
And the ball is smaller. IIRC, a new style assy is recommended per SB and requires a little surgery.
I'm a little vague on this because I have never done it. Strangely, my #6 had it done, which I was happy to see.
07-04-2011, 07:00 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Yup, you're in for both of those sets of bushings/couplers. I would also recommend the release arm ball cup as well.
They're all a major PITA but in the grand scheme of things there are very few ways to really improve the way the car operates that would cost less than these three parts.
They're all a major PITA but in the grand scheme of things there are very few ways to really improve the way the car operates that would cost less than these three parts.
