Cheburator

Hi list,

I am currently in the process of replacing the suspension on my S2... Three out of 4 corners were done without a hitch, but the rear left is proving to be one tough ****... The pin was seized on the shock, thus i had to cut it in two... Just when I thought I had it sorted, it turned out that the pin is also seized inside the front rubber bush. I tried freeing it with a braker bar, I tried hammering it with a decent size hammer, but it would not budge. I have bought the replacement bush from Porsche.

Can someone suggest an easy way to press the bush out. You have to bear two things in mind - the pin is still stuck inside the sleeve and secondly, I would rather not take the control arm off the car.

Many thanks in advance,

Alex

Bertrand Daoust

If I were you, I would definatly take the control arm out of the car and use a press to take the bushing out. Not a big deal. If I remember well, 3 bolts and 2 nuts. That's it.

Good luck.
I know that those pins can be a REAL PITA to remove!

Mrmerlin

remove the control arm and take to a machine shop have the pin pressed out.

OR buy a used control arm and install it

OR beat the he77 out of the part then do one of the above.
Use anti seize on the new pin

Cheburator

Spoke to a friend of mine who owns a garage with a hydraulic 20t press. Will remove the control arm and then we will get the bush out. At $40 for a new one from Porsche arriving tomorrow it is not worth messing around to save the old one...

Thanks for the strong advise on removing the control arm and don't worry - all the relevant components on the other three corners have been copper greased to distraction...

Alex

Bertrand Daoust

Mrmerlin

all the relevant components on the other three corners have been copper greased to distraction...

Not really sure what this means ^^^^ but you do have a way with words

Cheburator

It means that I greased them so many times, that I went crazy while doing it

GlenL

I use synthetic engine lube on these parts.

Mrmerlin

Glen, WSM specifies antiseize, the syn engine lube should keep out water for while.
I would suggest to use the antiseize

Hilton

Dammit.. my left rear is causing problems too.

I spent some time last night with a large hammer, some nuts, and some steel pipe, trying to beat it out as well as press it out using a nut. Left it to soak with acetone/ATF mix overnight, and I got it to move about 1cm this morning, so its not totally seized, but I'm out of used nuts to use on it - I stripped the threads inside them.

My theory is that the nearside is the side which ends up in the gutter when parked in heavy rain, and it gets wetter and corrodes more - right side came out very easily (as did both the ones on my '89 last time I did this job).

Alex - did yours press out in the end?

I was hoping to just swap rear shocks (I did the fronts already), as if I take apart the rear suspension, I'll be compelled to bead blast the alloy bits, re-plate the bolts/washers, and make it all look nice

Bertrand Daoust

Hilton,

The only way to remove those on my car was to use a press... And some heat!

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...s-are-out.html

Good luck.

Lizard928

Use the silver antisieze on those rear pins when reinstalling. The copper doesn't mix well with the aluminium hub.

Hilton

Yes - I've had them out on my 89 when changing shocks on that car. Silver antiseize for the shank of the pins, in massive quantities. IIRC, the WSM calls for Copper on the threads tho? (or possibly confusing it with other suspension bolts on the front end).

After beating on the left side last night, the right-side was a pleasant surprise - turned freely, and was able to pull it out just using a 22mm spanner and pulling on the washer by hand as I turned the pin.

So now I'm faced with the stuck left side again

Thanks Bertrand - I saw your thread.

After reading other threads, I think I'll see if I can borrow an extra pair of hands to help support the hub/shock/control arm while putting it in my 20T press.. given it moved 1cm or so, I figure there's a pretty good chance it'll still press out and be useable. If I can get it out, I can bead blast it and if necessary zinc-plate it (with some bake cycles to avoid hydrogen embrittlement).

Lizard928

use an impact gun (high power) to spin it. The hammering motion tends to knock them free pretty quick.

And yes copper antisieze on front suspension bolts, but that big rear pin, use the silver.

hinchcliffe

Just finished installing everything and both sides came apart relatively easy. But a question I have is the conical washers. Is there a good picture of where they go correctly. I put them back the way I see that they fell out.

But then I see Tony's pictures (http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/rcoinstall.htm) and he has them on either side of the shock, mine were on either side of the hub/carrier/spindle. The hub/carrier/spindle actually has a concave shape to fit them in both sides of it.

OK, just read the linked thread in post #11 and the 3rd page #29 post shows the factory install position. Either side of the hub/carrier/spindle