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Pin stuck in rear control arm bushing. Ideas?

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Old 04-12-2013 | 11:15 AM
  #16  
Tom in Austin's Avatar
Tom in Austin
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Right, the washers set right into the concave recesses on either side of the hub casting.
Old 04-12-2013 | 12:06 PM
  #17  
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I'm sure the OP has taken this into account but this infor may help others who find this thread in a search. When doing this job, most people jack up the car and put the jack stands under the body. The suspension is hanging. As you drive out the pin, the various parts of the suspension don't stay in allignment and put the pin in a bind. If you use a jack to relieve the pressure off of the suspension peices and keep them all in alignment you will find that the pin comes out MUCH easier. Try it, you will be surprised how much difference it makes.
Old 04-12-2013 | 12:48 PM
  #18  
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^^^^^ second that. I did that after trying to take a pin out and man did that help loads
Old 04-12-2013 | 06:54 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tom in Austin
Right, the washers set right into the concave recesses on either side of the hub casting.
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Old 04-12-2013 | 07:51 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Lizard928
use an impact gun (high power) to spin it. The hammering motion tends to knock them free pretty quick.
I tried that with the impact gun I use to undo rear axle nuts and crank bolts.. it stripped the threads out of 3 of the original nuts that were on the car and didn't turn the pin

Whilst investigating, I was able tp pry the bits apart a few mm and use a pick to turn the two conical and one flat washer freely - so it was definitely the pin itself binding that was the issue. I ended up pressing out the pin - its still straight and the threads survived, so I'll be using it again.

I'm in the throes of re-painting all the rear spring perches and springs with epoxy paint, and while thats curing for a few days will bead blast all the alloy bits to clean them up, and zinc plate all the washers/bolts. I did the fronts a few months ago when as a WYAIT with the crossmember off for engine mounts.

I had intended to just change the shocks and drive it, but having it this far apart it seems silly not to spend a few days making sure that its all pretty and ready for the next 10 years (which is about how long I expect the shocks to last)

The old boge shocks were doing nothing - I knew that before taking it apart, as the rear end bounced on the springs with no damping when pushed by hand. I'll soon have one car on koni/eibach and one on bilsteins with stock springs.. then I get to decide which combo I like better



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