bogdann

Pulled the rear fuel lines to replace them, the crank position sensor and clean the 2 rear earth points. Before putting it back together I thought I better check the vacuum lines that disappear down the back of the engine. One had vacuum with a slow leak while the other did not hold anything.

Not sure if EZK or auto so I got vacuum into the line with the slow leak, disconnected the EZK line in the passenger compartment, checked the gauge and it was still slowly losing vacuum so I have to assume the EZK line has a major break somewhere. Just to make sure the EZK was supposed to hold vacuum I capped the line at the EZK end in the passenger compartment and retested but same result, no vacuum.

Removed the electrical panel to try to find the break but no luck. What is the best way to re run this line? Do I have to do it from underneath and do I have to remove the electrical panel brackets to remove the sound proofing?

Regards

Norm
86 S3 auto
Perth, Western Australia

WallyP

First thing to do is to make certain that you are on the correct line...

Try having someone blow thru the line - a slow leak cannot be a disconnected line, and blowing thru should have air coming out the other end.

If you do have to replace the line, splice and tape the new line to the EZK end and push thru the firewall grommet.

Lizard928

Actually Wally the EZK does not have or use a MAP sensor.
The EZF on the other hand....

PorKen

Note that there is also a rubber 90° elbow connector at the firewall above the engine before the plastic line enters the cabin.

(Recommend changing title to EZF. EZK is '87-up w/knock sensors.)

WallyP

"Actually Wally the EZK does not have or use a MAP sensor.
The EZF on the other hand.... "

Yep - I was guilty of answering the question that he meant instead of the one that he asked, since he specified an '86.

bogdann

Hi Wally

I thought by removing the line at the "EZF" I would lose all vacuum proving the EZF vacuum was the one with the slow leak and the Auto with no connection but I will do the blow test and also test the auto line to make sure I have the right one. I have to fix them both anyway.

Apologies for the confusion with EZK / EZF I promised myself I would never buy another crossover or first variant of a model and now I have a ROW car with a vin less than 1000 (final 4 digits) which has all the post 1000 attributes the US cars have. Ordering parts is sometimes a nightmare.

Regards

Norm
86 S3
Perth Western Australia

bogdann

[QUOTE=PorKen;8669322]Note that there is also a rubber 90° elbow connector at the firewall above the engine before the plastic line enters the cabin.QUOTE]

Hi Ken

Now I am confused, both my lines run down the back of the engine over the bell housing and disappear (have to get underneath and check), maybe I am looking at the original line to the auto and then a replacement line run by a PO?

If the connector is above the engine where does it enter? Is there a photo I can look at?

Also, I got the chips and bits via Roger so I will get the car back together and running and then add the chips, fuel pressure regulator, X pipe and fast flow cats for comparison.

Regards

Norm
86.5(?) S3
Perth Western Australia