Combi - What I did, and anyone need Phonedials post
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Racer
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I finally found the time to swap my wheels for the Turbo Twists I bought from Jon B. I didn't drive it yet - suspension isn't settled, but I think it's a marked improvement over the Phonedials. As this car is a different color/total repaint, it'll never win a concours anyway. But it's a damn nice example for what I bought it for - driving.
So, anyone that's in the market for a fairly nice set of 15" phonedials WITH the installed and balanced, next to new B.F. Goodrich G-Force Sports, let me know with a PM. I will not seperate or ship - $300 and I'll meet you anywhere within an hour or so from Goldsboro, NC.
So, anyone that's in the market for a fairly nice set of 15" phonedials WITH the installed and balanced, next to new B.F. Goodrich G-Force Sports, let me know with a PM. I will not seperate or ship - $300 and I'll meet you anywhere within an hour or so from Goldsboro, NC.
#2
Captain Obvious
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Because of the offset of he twists will make tha car handle a little weird. Might want to hang onto the phone dials untill you are 100% sure you don't want them.
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Good point Imre. My front rotors have spacers installed. I haven't checked the mm thickness, but both these and the phonedials look like they stick/stuck out past the fender lip. I'll drive it like this, and then see if there's any rubbing without the spacer, and try it like that... maybe an alignment after that. I appreciate the input.
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I'm in for the Phone Dials, Brad, if you want to sell. Could use them immediately on our 84 USA car. Can I assume they are the 928 version with something like 65 offset stamped on them?
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Burning Brakes
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Thanks for the compliments... I think so too. ![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
UPDATE - I took the car out for a drive and teh suspension settled down. I don't find anything obnoxious or squirrely handeling-wise... I am getting some rubbing over bumps in the road on the back tires though. They are really close.
I'm going to do a search on "ride height adjustment." I measured from the floor to the front jack point was 9", and the back jack point was 8 and 7/16". I don't know whetther 1/2" will make the difference, but it can't hurt.
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UPDATE - I took the car out for a drive and teh suspension settled down. I don't find anything obnoxious or squirrely handeling-wise... I am getting some rubbing over bumps in the road on the back tires though. They are really close.
I'm going to do a search on "ride height adjustment." I measured from the floor to the front jack point was 9", and the back jack point was 8 and 7/16". I don't know whetther 1/2" will make the difference, but it can't hurt.
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UPDAATE again - measured my ride height:
DS Front - 178mm
PS Front - 182mm
SPEC - 180 +/- 10mm
DS Rear - 173mm
PS Rear - 171mm
SPEC - 173 +/- 10 mm
Looks like I may need to look for a thinner rear spacer - they're 18mm now.... I don't really want to roll the fender lips. Merlin/Jon... how close were the rears on your cars?
DS Front - 178mm
PS Front - 182mm
SPEC - 180 +/- 10mm
DS Rear - 173mm
PS Rear - 171mm
SPEC - 173 +/- 10 mm
Looks like I may need to look for a thinner rear spacer - they're 18mm now.... I don't really want to roll the fender lips. Merlin/Jon... how close were the rears on your cars?
#9
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Nice wheels, I would remove the front spacers the wheels will fit properly without them and the car will handle better .
For the rear get some leather gloves and with both hands to distribute the pull,
gently pull out the lower edge of the fender on the rear it will bend out slightly this should be enough to clear the tire .
NOTE if one side only is hitting after you have done this then you can adjust the rear cross member,
it can be moved a few MMs either way, to do that loosen the 4 outer attach bolts then the two cross member to chassis ( at the trans axle) bolts,
then pry with a screwdriver on the end fitting area of the cross member.
NOTE if you change the cross member then the rear has to be realigned as the toe will be out as well as camber
For the rear get some leather gloves and with both hands to distribute the pull,
gently pull out the lower edge of the fender on the rear it will bend out slightly this should be enough to clear the tire .
NOTE if one side only is hitting after you have done this then you can adjust the rear cross member,
it can be moved a few MMs either way, to do that loosen the 4 outer attach bolts then the two cross member to chassis ( at the trans axle) bolts,
then pry with a screwdriver on the end fitting area of the cross member.
NOTE if you change the cross member then the rear has to be realigned as the toe will be out as well as camber