Key won't go in
06-24-2011, 08:44 PM
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Key won't go in
Hey guys our friend Bill Perry is stuck in Houston away from his house and can't get the key to even go in to the ignition...
Anyone heard of anything like this?! This is a first for me!
Anyone heard of anything like this?! This is a first for me!
06-24-2011, 08:55 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
In this case we know he has the right key as he only has 1 Porsche and he had just driven it and then when he came back out to leave the key would physically NOT go in to the ignition. Never even heard of this before...
475hp/460lb.ft
06-25-2011, 10:53 AM
#6
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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The pin which holds the ignition lock assembly in place has possibly dropped down into the lock....need to pull the instrument pod and try to pry up the pin. This sometimes happens if the lock has been changed and in the process they buggered up the raised nub and the hole for the pin. If the pin is driven in too far it interfers with the key. So if lubrication fails to clear it .....time to pull the pod.
06-25-2011, 11:58 AM
#7
Rennlist Member
All our cars are getting pretty old now and at some point the locks will give trouble.
I haven't had to any work on my 89 S4 locks yet but have on other even older cars.
What I do is strip down the locks to get the barrel out or as close to that as I can.
Spray the barrel with brake cleaner and work it with the key. You will be amazed
at the amount of dirt that comes out. I have also cleaned them by immersing in
a pan of boiling water for a few minutes. Once you get the barrel as clean as possible
allow to dry then lubricate not with oil or WD40 but dry graphite powder.
Any locksmith will tell you that oil works in the short term but it collects dirt and
eventually dries out. Graphite powder from a puffer is the proper lubricant for locks.
Another trick is if your drivers door lock is worn out try swapping over the passenger
door lock (or barrel). This one will have had hardly any wear.
I haven't had to any work on my 89 S4 locks yet but have on other even older cars.
What I do is strip down the locks to get the barrel out or as close to that as I can.
Spray the barrel with brake cleaner and work it with the key. You will be amazed
at the amount of dirt that comes out. I have also cleaned them by immersing in
a pan of boiling water for a few minutes. Once you get the barrel as clean as possible
allow to dry then lubricate not with oil or WD40 but dry graphite powder.
Any locksmith will tell you that oil works in the short term but it collects dirt and
eventually dries out. Graphite powder from a puffer is the proper lubricant for locks.
Another trick is if your drivers door lock is worn out try swapping over the passenger
door lock (or barrel). This one will have had hardly any wear.
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06-25-2011, 02:58 PM
#8
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Rennlist Member
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That happened to my 79 way back in 1991. Sometimes it would go in, other times not. Very frustrating. Finally I just left the key in the ignition until I could replace the whole ignition key assembly.
Rich
Rich
06-25-2011, 03:50 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
+1 on pin dropping into ignition lock or a broken or damaged tumbler or spring.
Alarm contacts on 928 door and hatch locks are open to the barrel.
So, conductive lubricants like graphite or copper are not used.
This is counter to traditional locksmithing, but a result of the electrodes.
There are TSB's on the subject.
Alarm contacts on 928 door and hatch locks are open to the barrel.
So, conductive lubricants like graphite or copper are not used.
This is counter to traditional locksmithing, but a result of the electrodes.
There are TSB's on the subject.
