a/c compressor leak
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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While under the car trying to fix another leak, I noticed green fluid at the bottom of my a/c compressor. Is this the compressor itslef leaking? Is it repairable?
The air con works ok and the pulley spins freely, but also noticed some endplay in the pulley. The belt showed signs of fraying on edges but not excessive. Is this compressor on its way out???
The air con works ok and the pulley spins freely, but also noticed some endplay in the pulley. The belt showed signs of fraying on edges but not excessive. Is this compressor on its way out???
#2
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Hi Steve,
is it a 10PA20? Mine has leaks at both ends. Can't tell if ac works as heater valve is dumping hot air all the time.
This is beginning to look good for me. Finding solutions to power steeering hose and now sorting ac compressors.![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Oliver
is it a 10PA20? Mine has leaks at both ends. Can't tell if ac works as heater valve is dumping hot air all the time.
This is beginning to look good for me. Finding solutions to power steeering hose and now sorting ac compressors.
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
Oliver
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Oliver yes it is a 10PA20 compressor. Although you cant see it on the picture there is green fluid at both ends. I am spending too much under the car looking for faults!
#5
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
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+1 on what fred said. It could be coming from one of the hose fittings above the comporessor or from a joint in the compressor case. The most common leak is the shaft seal at the front.
#7
Race Car
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There are 8 places for a 10PAxxx to leak from:
- The octagonal gasket at the hose block
- The o-ring on the low-side block/hose connection
- The o-ring on the high-side block/hose connection
- One of the three compressor body o-rings
- The compressor shaft seal
- The bolt holes - always use new crush washers when reinstalling the bolts
You can reseal these compressors, but they have a lip seal that is difficult to install properly. So difficult in fact, that even professionally rebuilt ones sometimes leak from the shaft seal.
The shaft seal, o-ring kit and shaft seal installer/protector will run you about ~$40, so it is an experiment that may not cost you too much. Rob Edwards attempted to reseal one and failed:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...uild-pics.html
but he did not replace the center body o-ring which I have personally seen leak, especially after compressor disassembly to change the shaft seal. He also had a problem with reinstalling the bolts. The reason for that is that oil got into the bolt holes in the rear plate and hydrolocked, messing up the threads. Make sure all oil is out of the bolt holes before reinstalling the rear plate.
Some say the secret to installing the seal correctly is to carefully push it onto the seal installer separately backwards to open it up, then install it in the nose and then slide the nose over the shaft with protector carefully without any angling.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
475hp/460lb.ft
- The octagonal gasket at the hose block
- The o-ring on the low-side block/hose connection
- The o-ring on the high-side block/hose connection
- One of the three compressor body o-rings
- The compressor shaft seal
- The bolt holes - always use new crush washers when reinstalling the bolts
You can reseal these compressors, but they have a lip seal that is difficult to install properly. So difficult in fact, that even professionally rebuilt ones sometimes leak from the shaft seal.
The shaft seal, o-ring kit and shaft seal installer/protector will run you about ~$40, so it is an experiment that may not cost you too much. Rob Edwards attempted to reseal one and failed:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...uild-pics.html
but he did not replace the center body o-ring which I have personally seen leak, especially after compressor disassembly to change the shaft seal. He also had a problem with reinstalling the bolts. The reason for that is that oil got into the bolt holes in the rear plate and hydrolocked, messing up the threads. Make sure all oil is out of the bolt holes before reinstalling the rear plate.
Some say the secret to installing the seal correctly is to carefully push it onto the seal installer separately backwards to open it up, then install it in the nose and then slide the nose over the shaft with protector carefully without any angling.
Dan
'91 928GT S/C
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)