Frame Damage Thread
#19
Rennlist Member
86 USA, 98k mi, dealer serviced untill 73K mi
Was perfect, damage was done by me in the "early days" trying to lift with a 2 foot 3X3 to spread the load.
Was perfect, damage was done by me in the "early days" trying to lift with a 2 foot 3X3 to spread the load.
#21
Rennlist Member
The problem with the 86 ---- it has the very soft, single green stripe springs.
Very low ride height & time consuming to lift using jack points.
Lift a bit and the other side sinks further.
Very low ride height & time consuming to lift using jack points.
Lift a bit and the other side sinks further.
#22
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Oh, the huge manatee
'93 GTS, 102K miles:
#24
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
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Sterling:
Several years ago you documented this when I asked about how you did it. Can you locate that information again? I've searched Rennlist high and low using all the possibly relevant search terms I can come up with.
IIRC, you cut a slot in the floor above the box section damage and slid a 1/4" steel plate into the section and then used a punch and hammer through other access holes to pound the plate down and push out the damage. I've been planning to do it to repair this damage from an off-road excursion over a roadside curb - pushed up part of the box a good 1/2". The upper lines in the photo are normal floor pan shape. The only damage is to the bottom of the boxed area. This is driver side with left being front.
Note that none of the pictures so far show what Stan is asking about - structural damage that would potentially throw the car off dimensionally, such as cracks or bends around the A-arm mounting areas.
Several years ago you documented this when I asked about how you did it. Can you locate that information again? I've searched Rennlist high and low using all the possibly relevant search terms I can come up with.
IIRC, you cut a slot in the floor above the box section damage and slid a 1/4" steel plate into the section and then used a punch and hammer through other access holes to pound the plate down and push out the damage. I've been planning to do it to repair this damage from an off-road excursion over a roadside curb - pushed up part of the box a good 1/2". The upper lines in the photo are normal floor pan shape. The only damage is to the bottom of the boxed area. This is driver side with left being front.
Note that none of the pictures so far show what Stan is asking about - structural damage that would potentially throw the car off dimensionally, such as cracks or bends around the A-arm mounting areas.
#25
Team Owner
Thread Starter
I wish i had taken pictures of the frame crack failures at the LCArms, I have seen 4 of them all on the right side for some reason.
I guess a breaker would also have seen these types of failures.
FWIW there is a difference in the right frame rail it also contains the tow hook attachment point,
i wonder if the frame is constructed in such a way as to contain water.
There are certainly a lot of frozen tow hook plugs
I guess a breaker would also have seen these types of failures.
FWIW there is a difference in the right frame rail it also contains the tow hook attachment point,
i wonder if the frame is constructed in such a way as to contain water.
There are certainly a lot of frozen tow hook plugs
#26
Under the Lift
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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Stan: I almost always see lots of water retained by the LCA bolts when I remove them. Just saw this last week on a track car. But I have not come across cracks in this area yet.
#27
Race Director
great thread....granted I have been drinking (shocker)..but I thought you were asking for frame damage near the front suspension vs the typical dented frame rails from incorrect lifting-jack points.... I don't have any good pics...but I have seen a couple pics of frame "cracks" near the mounting points of the front suspension rear mount point A arm...