CatoBT

This is really odd:

The washer pump has been out for a while (and I did not bother changing it as I only drive on sunny days).

Yesterday I changed the whole bottle+pump and hoses. I guess that maybe I spilled some washer fluid inside the engine bay, but I've cleaned the engine with a power washer before, and it wasn't a problem to get water in there.

When starting up after this the car backfires and runs very badly.

I am able to start it, but below 2500 RPM it shoots/cracks and really does not sound well. There is also a smell of gasoline...

If not holding the rev's above the 2k line, the engine simply stops/dies.

I've checked the following:

Distributor cap (opened/cleaned)
Distributor (rotor) cleand the contact
Air-filter checked (when starting without filter the symptoms are the same)
Pulled all spark-plugs (from what I can tell, they look normal).
Checked all the plug cables (one has a crack in the rubber underneath close to the distributor. Can't see that this could make so much trouble?).

I guess there are two options for me now:

1. Limp away to a workshop (and they will charge me astronomical amouts and maybe not even solve the problem. Not many Porsche workshops around).

2. Cry H E L P, and hope that some of you guys can help me to find out what is wrong .

All suggestions are highly appreciated!!

Brgds

Cato

fraggle

When you switched everything, did you disturb the charcoal canister and emissions hoses? If they haven't been changes they're probably rotten and things aren't right.

Mike Simard

A vacuum line either off or split could be likely. There are several of them around the throttle valve and going to the WUR. Get a vacuum schematic and flashlight and check out each of the hoses around the throttle.

I've also seen a loose intake tube cause wierdness but it's so obvious and accesable you might not bother to check.

Alan

I'm no expert - but doesn't backfiring imply unburned fuel in the exhaust system...

Therefore I'd assume simplest cause is a lack of spark that would cause both the general roughness (depending on how many cylinders are out) and the unburned fuel in the exhaust. If its so rough it won't idle & needs higher RPM it sounds like you may have lost 4 cylinders - so maybe a coil issue...

Pull plug connectors 1 at a time and put on an extra "al fresco" plug - ground the plug body - leave well alone & see if you get spark when running/cranking. Isolate the failed ones.

Alan

killav

Buh bye now

SteveG

5 posts: on ignor.

WyattsRide

Hey, we don't come to your gay **** forum and harass you do we?.... and it's PACER not Pinto......

WallyP

Cato,

Some terminology and clarification requests...

"Backfire" - Firing back thru the intake system.
"Afterfire" - Abnormal firing thru the exhaust system. Usually erroneously called backfire.

First question: Is this truly backfiring thru the intake system? Is it regular or irregular?

Backfiring can be caused by several things, including a very lean mixture, incorrectly routed plug wires, sticking valves, etc.

Given all factors, my first guess is the same as Mike's - that in working on the washer system, you have broken or disconnected a vacuum line.

CatoBT

Thanks guys!

I'm not sure what the correct term is, but it is rather loud when it shoots. It appears only on low rpm's either when it is close to stopping or right after start-up. It seems to be regular, but I'm not 100% sure about this.

I will try to find out about the vacuum lines (I guess the faluty one should be somewhere inside the front right hand wheel house or close...).

Results (if any) will follow!

Again: Thanks!!

UPDATE: I am now sure that there is a case of "backfire". I just tried to start it now, and the shots are certainly in the engine bay. Also, there is a lot of blue smoke (for a short moment I thought there was a fire in the engine).

Scary...

Brgds

Cato

Dave928S

Check the 'Y' connector close to the charcoal cannister (right near the washer bottle). The 'Y' piece is prone to breaking and will give you a massive air leak and a smell of gasoline from tank fumes which aren't being drawn in. If it's broken you can replace with genuine, one Nicole sells, or fabricate one from readily available plumbing fittings.

CatoBT

Thanx for the tip!

I'm trying to locate this canister, but I can't find it...

I looked in the workshop manual too, but it is nowhere to be found (I guess I'm not looking at the right places).

Is there a photo/an image or perhaps a drawing showing the location of this?

On forehand thanks!

Cato

Dave928S

Its up high in the front right wheel well and the 'y' piece is just under it. I'll look for a thread with photos and post the link or a photo.

Dave928S

Here's the PET illustration for your year car .... #1 is the canister and #24 is the 'Y' piece. All the connections to the canister are facing the rear of the car, so this view is looking through the inner guard at the canister.

The splash guard panel at the rear of the wheel well, with the washer bottle behind, would be to the right of the canister in this illustration.

CatoBT

Thanx again Dave!

I can't find it...

Maybe it has been removed by previous owner?

This is what it looks like inside:

And this is inside the wheel well:
http://https://rennlist.com/forums/m...l-well2-mr.jpg

Maybe I'm looking the wrong place?

Brgds

Cato

SteveG

Remove the wheel, Remove the wheel well liner. Viola. (sic)