Landseer

The easiest way to address the ground over the "O" is remove the emissions valve and hoses. Really can't be cleaned properly otherwise because bracket prevents access to the cam cover surface which needs to be cleaned.

This is a very important engine electronics ground, so be sure to get it.

Good work!

dan1066

Update: 1. Ran 12V straight from battery to fuel pump. Nothing.
2. with 12V going to the positve terminal of the fuel pump, shorted the negative post to ground to check to verify I did not have a bad connection to ground. Still nothing.
3. removed the direct 12 V from the fuel pump. Jumpered out the fuel cell relay and I have 12 V at the fuel pump.
4. Car cranks, but will not fire today.

Based on today's troubleshooting, I think it's time for a new fuel pump.

Landseer

The only filter in front of the pump is a sock strainer attached to the outlet of the tank, and sometimes the sock separates internally and lets raw gas through. Removing that assy.is a hit or miss operation --- sometimes the glued-in sleeve containing the mating threads that are part of the tank itself fail. So far, I've not seen that happen in 7 tanks, but others have. Tanks get dirty inside. Real dirty.


The tolerances in the pump are supposed to be tight. A little sediment will jam them. Sometimes you can reverse the leads and clear the pump, squirting some WD 40 or brake cleaner into the pump for assist.
The two I've cleared like that eventually failed.

You might consider replacing the strainer/fitting, the gasket, the short feed hose and the pump, plus the fuel filter. Better yet, drop the tank and clean it, plus replace the gasket that seats the sender unit. The downside risk is breaking the tank when removing the strainer.

Just thought you needed something to think about.

dan1066

After moving and a butt load of travel for work, I'm finally back at this.

Replaced fuel pump and fuel injection relay, re-assembled everything with a new fuel filter and hard fuel line between pump and filter.

Still no start, however the fuel pump runs but no fuel is getting to the inlet of the filter. Fuel is getting the inlet of the pump. So I think either the pump is not pump or the check valve is not allowing fuel to pass. Thoughts?

dan1066

Also, fuel filter IS installed in the correct orientation.

Mrmerlin

do you have the hot wire on the positive side of the pump?
I know the studs are different sizes to prevent this but no telling what you have .
Where did you get this pump?

DO not try to jumper or touch 12v to the pump with any fuel lines open or you will neatly catch the rear of the car on fire

dan1066

Mrmerlin, pump is the one that came with the car and appears to be OEM.

Which terminal is +?

Mrmerlin

if you have a factory Bosch pump it will have a + and - on each of the respective terminal mounting standoffs and one of the studs will be slightly thicker so to take the fatter connector,
the brown wire is negative,
the red wire is hot

waynestrutt

Positive terminal is small,ground is larger .Had all the same problems recently .thanks to the members here resolved them. Terminal cleaning is vital,especially every copper connector in the fuse and relay panel.Velcro the door up. I used a copper brush from HD. After all that I replaced the green hall wire .It carries the pulse to tell the injection unit when to open the injectors.The cold start valve needs to ground ,not just disconnected in order to close it, otherwise it is open.
These should help. Good luck

http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/troubl...ing/index.html

http://texas912.org/912E%20Tech%20Da...l%20Manual.pdf

dan1066

I went out tonight to verify I had the leads to the fuel pump hooked up correctly and I did. I decided to crank it one more time after I had hooked the pump back up just because. It caught and died. After a couple more attempts, it fired up!! I'm gonna chalk it up to a loose connection on the fuel pump, but regardless, I'm very happy tonight.
Thanks for all the help!!