Ignition timing question
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Instructor
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 157
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From: Denver CO
Ignition timing question
I am a little confused on ignition timing values. I looked in the WSM and it states in text to set the timing to 23 degree @ 3000 rpm, but the manual show a picture of the crank pully set to 28 degrees. On my car 82 4.5 the pully also has an indication for 28 but not for 23. I am wondering if the text in the manual is a misprint or do you estimate where 23 degrees is when setting the timing.
I have attached the picture and text from the WSM.
Another question is I am about to replace my steering rack due to leaks. I could have sworn dextron type F was what to fill the system with, but the WSM says Dextron II. I am assuming the WSM is right and I just made up Type F for some reason.
Thanks
Thom
I have attached the picture and text from the WSM.
Another question is I am about to replace my steering rack due to leaks. I could have sworn dextron type F was what to fill the system with, but the WSM says Dextron II. I am assuming the WSM is right and I just made up Type F for some reason.
Thanks
Thom
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 757
Likes: 40
From: Lisboa
Hi,
Take a look here:
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=...MTI0Nzll&hl=en
For the 82 models it's 28ş for Euro cars and 23ş for US cars.
Regards
Take a look here:
https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=...MTI0Nzll&hl=en
For the 82 models it's 28ş for Euro cars and 23ş for US cars.
Regards
Chronic Tool Dropper
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From: Bend, Oregon
Dexron is the correct power steering fluid, in a flavor anywhere Dexron II or higher. Type F fluid is different, typically for Ford cars into the 1980's models. The current Dexron is generally compatible with Mercon, and you will find bottles labelled Dexron IV/Mercon on store shelves. That's the stuff you want.
For your rack replacement and since you'll have the system drained, it's a great time to replace the filter/reservoir assembly. Also a good time to replace at least the two hoses that attach to the reservoir, and reseal the pump if it's leaking at all (inexpensive kit from our suppliers). For sure the copper banjo washers will need to be replaced. Get new tie rod assemblies with your rack unless they have been replaced in the last 50k or so. I can also recommend that you grab a can of spray engine cleaner, and use it to de-slime the rack and crossmember area just before you start your work. Much better than swimming in slime from a leaking rack.
For your rack replacement and since you'll have the system drained, it's a great time to replace the filter/reservoir assembly. Also a good time to replace at least the two hoses that attach to the reservoir, and reseal the pump if it's leaking at all (inexpensive kit from our suppliers). For sure the copper banjo washers will need to be replaced. Get new tie rod assemblies with your rack unless they have been replaced in the last 50k or so. I can also recommend that you grab a can of spray engine cleaner, and use it to de-slime the rack and crossmember area just before you start your work. Much better than swimming in slime from a leaking rack.
